Rear End Removal - How To?

Faheem

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Yep the ABS sensor should disconnect like that. Be careful though, you dont want to squeeze the clip that holds the cable in too hard as over the years they do get brittle.

This is a basic list i think of everything that needs to be removed/disconnected:
Spare Tyre Carrier
Exhaust
Handbrake cable
Propshaft from diff
Diff sensor
Shock bolts - arm should drop
Springs
Caliper zip tied to shock
Diff Bolt
Brake pipe where they join chassis/brake caliper
ABS Sensor
Brake Pad wear sensor
Anti roll bar bracket from chassis
2 large nuts either side
4 6mm allen bolts

Might have missed a couple of bits but think that should be most of what needs to be removed.
 

Sean d

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i have had the brake pad sensor cable off the pads before, so thats no prob just trying to suss out what other things i need to be aware of... so the abs sensors can stay on the hub and disconnects from the beam in that plastic block thing..?? and i have had the differential speed sensor out before when i drained the diff oil and renewed the diff gasket... i got there handsbrake cables are easy as i have adjusted up my handbrake today as its crap... will start to get the bushes once i get back off my busy weekend...
Yes, you can disconnect them in the black box, they just pull out and then split them
 

Faheem

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Anyone know how much POR 15 would be needed to paint over trailing arms, beam amd anti roll bar? Should you use their top coat as well? The parts aren't exposed to sunlight so in theory should hold without the top coat I would have thought.
 

Sean d

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Anyone know how much POR 15 would be needed to paint over trailing arms, beam amd anti roll bar? Should you use their top coat as well? The parts aren't exposed to sunlight so in theory should hold without the top coat I would have thought.
I used one pint on the arms and half shafts, I laid it on though
 

roadvoyager1

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Yep the ABS sensor should disconnect like that. Be careful though, you dont want to squeeze the clip that holds the cable in too hard as over the years they do get brittle.


Might have missed a couple of bits but think that should be most of what needs to be removed.
If you have a one piece exhaust you may need to disconnect the Lambda sensors so you can move it out of the way. There are plugs just under the edge of the heat shield if I remember correctly.
 

Faheem

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I have a small issue, was doing some rust removal today with a wire wheel and this happened.
20180616_133710.jpg


That's the N/S bracket I think I'll need to replace now.

O/S came out well, ready to paint.
20180616_133718.jpg
 

Althulas

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Thanks for posting those pics @spurs fan in a coupe. Explains the location of those dreaded Allen bolts. I was thinking of using a impact gun on them but most likely will shred the Allen key. Did you hammer a socket on there in the end?

Hopefully that’s the last rusty part you will need to replace Faheem.
 

spurs fan in a coupe

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I hammered the 6mm Allen socket on the furthest forward one .... came off no problem, then the rear one rounded off so used a 13mm removal socket, the the big 22mm nut started spinning with the stud, so had to use an adjustable spanner to lock the top end and a breaker bar to loosen off the but, then jacked the beam up to finally release the bracket!

After smashing the locking wheel nut off after previous owner decided to keep the key!
 

handsomejackuk

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plenty of plus gas and hammer a good quality allen bit in, I had a 3/8 drive 6mm allen bit that has a slight taper on the bit and it fitted real snug. and they all came out great... maybe i was just lucky...

Andy, Faheem ?

i assume i can remove those plates singularly and give them a good clean up without fear of the suspension arm dropping, as i am wanting to give them a good coat of paint.....
 

Faheem

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I didn't have access to any heat so that probably did help a fair bit for you! But well done for getting them out.

Chances are that everything should be stuck in place due to the age of the car, you should be able to remove the plate without having the arms fall off. Just hand tighten the 22mm nut back on once you've removed the plate. And don't be lying directly under the arms when you do remove the plate! :D
 

Faheem

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Balls!

Another hole!




Its not too big of a hole I've prodded around the area with a flathead and the rest is solid. Replace or weld shut and paint?
 

t-tony

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While it is off, if you can find a better condition replacement, then I would replace it Faheem. Pointless leaving that on when you're going as far as you are on this refurb mate.

Tony.
 

Sean d

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While it is off, if you can find a better condition replacement, then I would replace it Faheem. Pointless leaving that on when you're going as far as you are on this refurb mate.

Tony.
I recon Tony is right pal, that looks well and truly past it, I'm still surprised that I did't hole mine
 

Faheem

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Its very surprising though @Sean d on the chassis itself theres very, very little rust, even when i took the sill covers off, it was all very clean so I'm surprised that yours had no holes and mine do! :(

More money out my pocket! :rolleyes: Wonder what's next! =))
 

Mazza

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At least you’ll be secure in the knowledge that you have a sound rear end


That’s exactly what the doctor told me when he prescribed the ointment =))
 
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Faheem

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Progress has been made, albeit slow progress.

Beam, rear trailing arms, calipers and arb have been painted which means, only the diff and some smaller bits are waiting for paint now.













Once I've sorted the front end out, it should be a case of painting the diff and any other smaller bits.

Question re the diff, there appears to be a small leak, I can't find a cheap paper gasket anywhere, I was going to use RTV gasket maker, would that work with the diff in terms of preventing leaks? BMW do sell the gasket but I believe it was showing as £50 or something ridiculous like that.
 
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