Rebody Pingu's Kit Car Project

[Pingu]

Oh. Sorry. I take it back.

This video

Rebody - Pingu's Kit Car Project

He can try. Blocked his number and he doesn't know where I live. I'm sure he could find out if he wants, but it wouldn't be worth his trouble. It wasn't anything dangerous. In fact, quite the opposite. Cut and taped wires inside the trunking. Wires cut short inside junction boxes and the...

zroadster.org

At the start where the dash is picked up and flipped over it looks like light reflecting off screw heads. I just slowed it right down and see its rwflection off the corners of the demist slots.

Sorry.

So you used grp? Will that stick to the plastic dash?

No problem .

Yes - just roughen the plastic to create a key. I've found that fibreglass resin sticks to most things - hands, door knobs, kitchen worktops, Z3 dashboards...

 

[Pond]

No problem .

Yes - just roughen the plastic to create a key. I've found that fibreglass resin sticks to most things - hands, door knobs, kitchen worktops, Z3 dashboards...

Good quality self-etching primer is also a good 'key' and saves a lot of hard work IME.

 

[Pingu]

Alternator failed on the way to le Mans last year. I think the cause may have been excessive under bonnet heat. I'm making a splitter to divert air around the radiator via a shroud. I think I will probably need some louvres on the bonnet to allow hot air to get out, but that can come later.

The dotted line shows air going through the shroud. The solid lines show the intended air flow.

It may help with air flow into the engine as the air filter entry is in this area as well.

 

[Dxbolton]

There should be a pipe to direct air up to the alternator from the lower valence on the Z3. Do you still have that pipe and can you adapt the lower end to get fresh air direct into the engine?

 

[Pingu]

There should be a pipe to direct air up to the alternator from the lower valence on the Z3. Do you still have that pipe and can you adapt the lower end to get fresh air direct into the engine?

I'll look on RealOEM. There isn't one on the ZM, but this ZM may be getting one.

Many thanks for the info. There isn't one for my car, but there is one for the E30 M3. It has the same engine. I've ordered a used one from eBay, and I hope I can modify it to fit.

The part on eBay doesn't have the shroud over the rear of the alternator, but I kept the old alternator, so I can use that as a template.

My diagnosis of overheated alternator may well have been correct if there is already a solution in place.

 

[mittaw]

This is interesting as its something i was worried about...and planning a trip to Le Mans. Will be keen to hear if this solves your problem.

 

[Pingu]

The main shouding is fitted. I'm awaiting the shroud to the alternator, and that will mean a bit of stuff need to be taken off to see what I need to do - air filter, possibly air plenum

Main shroud comes off with three bolts. I'm just waiting for the Milliput to set, then I'll paint it satin black...

Oh, and I started the car .

Runs sweet as a nut.

 

[Pingu]

MOT passed.

I'll tax it in April. No point taxing it for a day.

BRAINWAVE = The Range Rover costs £66 per month (going up to £69), but £40 for an MOT

 

[Pingu]

I'm waiting until 1st May before taking the car off SORN, and testing it. There are some tests I want to do. I've attached a thermometer to the alternator and the readout is attached to the passenger wiper blade so I can read the screen from the driver's seat. I've taken the wiper blade fuses out so the wipers won't sweep accidentally.

I want to test the temperature of the alternator after a few miles to see if ducting makes a difference, and whether I can reduce heat soak.

The tests will be...

1. Standard with no ducting (baseline)
2. Modified E36 M3 ducting only (see image below)
3. Modified E36 M3 ducting with alternator shield (see below)
4. Modified E36 M3 ducting with themostatically controlled fan (see below)
5. Modified E36 M3 ducting with alternator shield and themostatically controlled fan
6. Splitter with no ducting (see above)
7. Splitter with modified E36 M3 ducting only
8. Splitter with modified E36 M3 ducting with alternator shield
9. Splitter with modified E36 M3 ducting with themostatically controlled fan
10. Splitter with modified E36 M3 ducting with alternator shield and themostatically controlled fan

The E36 M3 ducting has been modified in two ways. The screw tab was at 90°, but has been straightened. I've attached a stud to the inside of the engine bay where this tab to be secured. I've added a screw hole near the front orifice to allow the ducting to be secured at two points. The other modification is an additional front orifice. This is so the original orifice can be used for the fan if required (see image below).

Modified E36 M3 ducting

Modified E36 M3 ducting with thermostatically controlled fan

Alternator Shield

 

[mittaw]

Will be interested to hear how this goes mate.

 

[Pingu]

Wow. What a difference. The alternator is 20°C cooler with the modification.

I have lots of data to back it up, but the ducting and the alternator shield are the way to go.

Alternator Temperatures

The ducting alone just worked (poorly) when the car was moving forward.

I think the alternator shield worked so well because hot air rises, and the hole at the top allowed hot air to escape. The hot air was replaced by cold air through the ducting.

The splitter shrouding acted more like a baffle than a splitter. The car also felt like it accelerated more slowly.

 

[Pingu]

I've added a heatshield to the airbox on this car and on my M Roadster.

I tested this car, not the one in the video, and the air intake temperature (measured on INPA / Testa) dropped from 34°C to 21°C.

Every 7°C drop in temperature is a 1% increase in pressure, so that's nearly 2% more molecules going into the engine. Formula One teams would spend millions of dollars for that. I spent an afternoon and about £5 .