Oil leak

mwpe

mwpe

Zorg Guru (V)
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Joined
Dec 8, 2011
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193
Location
Camberley
Model of Z
3.0
When under the car refitting the front bumper, I noticed a slight oil leak from somewhere higher up. Closer investigation showed that it was from the head cover gasket. It was not bad enough to have caused a drip yet but I thought it would be worth fixing. I got a new gasket from Sopers and removed the head cover, the gasket set consists of a moulded rubber outer gasket and two moulded rubber inner gaskets which seal the spark plug tubes. I was surprised to find that the old gasket was completely hardened, obviously the result of 101,000 miles of hot engine. The plug tube gaskets were rock hard and starting to break up.
This is obviously worth checking on higher mileage engines as, if left the oil will eventually leak into the plug tubes and cause problems.
 

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Sound advice. What was the cost and how long to do?
 
The gasket set was £42 and it took about 3 hours but that was with a learning curve. It would take less time to do it again. This was the old gasket. I meant to include it on the original message but it didn't appear.
Old gasket.webp
 
When removing/replacing the rocker cover screws a driver drill with a 1/4" socket adapter is a very useful tool. Many bolts removed very quickly. Also handy when changing spark plugs when taking out the pencil coil bolts.

Tony.
 
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I used one of those but a few of the nuts are a bit tricky to get on.
 
mwpe said:
I used one of those but a few of the nuts are a bit tricky to get on.
Click to expand...
If you have a reasonable 1/4 drive socket set you may have a flexible extension which allows access for awkward bolt positions. I have both 1/4 and 3/8 ones, very handy.

Tony.
 
t-tony said:
If you have a reasonable 1/4 drive socket set you may have a flexible extension which allows access for awkward bolt positions. I have both 1/4 and 3/8 ones, very handy.

Tony.
Click to expand...
Agreed - I struggled without them on rear bolts for cover gasket change - have just ordered these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141821332814 ready for complete water hose change as rear and lower engine ones are a pain to get at.

EDIT - link may not be working they are Sealey products
 
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They are OK but this is what I used, a 1/4 inch drive wobbly. It is a bit more positive.

Wobbly.webp
 
That looks like a universal joint to me. =)) A wobbly extension has the square drive ground down along its length to a more diamond shape which allows you to drive away from the perpendicular.

Tony.

ps. Not being picky here but tools have correct names. :)
 
mwpe said:
They are OK but this is what I used, a 1/4 inch drive wobbly. It is a bit more positive........
Click to expand...

Understand what you mean - it depends what you are trying to get at - some may require a combination of the 2 - water hose clips at the rear of the engine are a pain, degree of which varies depending on which way round they have been fitted.
 
jonco said:
depending on which way round they have been fitted.
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That would be which ever way round was easier on the production line Colin, usually the dead opposite to where they need to be in the real world. One of the worst these days are the spring type of hose clip, a one way ticket to the bin and replaced with a Jubilee clip or copy of one.

Tony.
 
ps. Not being picky here but tools have correct names. :)[/QUOTE]

oh god, so true=)) having to try real hard not to mention names here=)):thumbsup:
 
jonco said:
Understand what you mean - it depends what you are trying to get at - some may require a combination of the 2 - water hose clips at the rear of the engine are a pain, degree of which varies depending on which way round they have been fitted.
Click to expand...
In my experience they're always the wrong way! I'm sure @t-tony has some words about those! JIM
 
I need to do this in the new year as mine is leaking slightly from the front of the gasket
 
5harp3y said:
I need to do this in the new year as mine is leaking slightly from the front of the gasket
Click to expand...
I would recommend that in addition to changing profile gaskets as above you also examine/change the rubber seals on the mounting bolts and any other `O' rings (vary with model). As @mwpe originally said they all harden over time. On my M44 the gasket was not too bad but the bolt rubbers had hardened and cracked and the O ring on the oil spray ring was more like bakelite and near to failure.
 
I need to do the timing chain cover on my 1.9, which has a slight annoying leak - just wondered if anyone had used RTV silicon instead of the silly priced gaskets. Have used it on other cars without a problem and I have been told that a lot of modern cars use it as an alternative to gaskets from new. Will replace the crankshaft seal though and probably do the timing chain and tensioner while the cover is off.
 
I changed mine when inspecting my rattle noise. Mine was also hardened and very brittle indeed. My gasket was £25 from euro car parts.
 
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