- Joined
- Apr 27, 2012
- Points
- 100
Thanks Murray - They're on the shopping list..
M54B30 Intake manifold
- Thread starter Southernboy
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2012
- Points
- 100
So, the mani arrived yesterday afternoon and I dropped it off at the auto engineers for a bath this morning... I'll collect it tomorrow, and see what it looks like... hope it's as clean as new...
Meanwhile I've ordered the injector O rings and a new gasket for the seal onto the cylinder head.
The DISA was as promised in 100% order and is holding it's vacuum - so diaphragm still good. It also came with a CCV valve, but I already have a new one I fitted a couple of months back when I also fitted the Moroso catch can / oil air separator.
For those who might like to consider the catch can mod here's a brief guide to how I approached it:-
1. The hot oily air is ejected from the hose connector on the cam cover and is fed to the inlet of the CCV.
2. Inside the CCV the air and oil are separated and excess oil is drained from the bottom of the CCV whilst the "clean" air is recycled back into the intake manifold.
3. Having had the opportunity to remove the TB and the DISA, I noticed how oily the interior of the intake manifold was. This led me to surmise that the CCV doesn't actually do a great job on it's own.
4. I bought the Moroso brand catch can and fitted it to the front chassis frame just aft of the ABS and under the windscreen washer reservoir. I had to make a special bracket, ut it's very simple. I put it there so that it would be below the level of the CCV, and also because there isn't anywhere rlse to fit it.
5. Now for the fun part... I retained the OEM elbow clip fitting at the Cam cover and also the OEM clip on connector at the inlet side of the CCV where the pipe from the cam cover connects to the CCV.
6. I then bought a meter of 20mm ID rubber hose which has a 280 C heat limit and is unaffected by oil. After removing the OEM plastic pipe from the Cam cover elbow to the CCV inlet. and connected my rubber hose which now goes to the inlet of the catch can. From the outlet side of the catch can another length of rubber hose goes back to the inlet of the CCV where I used the OEM clip on connector.
7. The system now has a "dual" filter. First the catch can with it's filter removes around 90% of the oil in the air / oil mist from the Cam cover outlet, and then feed "clean" air into the CCV, where the CCV now filters it again.
8. The benefit other than having oil free air fed into the intake is that by the time the air has passed through the Moroso and the CCV, it is a heap cooler than it would be after passing directly from the CCV to the intake. You have to wonder about the benefits of a CAI when super-heated oily air is fed into the intake directly from the CCV. That oily air is running at well over 100 C...
9. The Moroso has a short drain pipe under the bottom of the catch can with a twist type toggle tap. So every 5000 miles when doing an oil change it's a simple job to drain the collected muck out the catch can at the same time.
10. Parts required : 20mm ID High heat rubber hose. 4 x 16 - 30mm hose clamps. 4 x 10 - 20mm hose clamps. 2 x 20mm to 12mm reducers. (The catch can uses 12mm inlet and outlet barbed nozzles.) 1 x "L" bracket to fit the catch can onto. 3 x 6mm self tapping hex head screws to fit the bracket to the chassis frame. Permanent thread locker to make sure the self tappers don't work lose.
Before doing this mod, I had read and watched several Youtube vids where the CCV had been deleted. I wasn't impressed with the idea which is why I decided to retain it and let it act as a 2nd filter.
Meanwhile I've ordered the injector O rings and a new gasket for the seal onto the cylinder head.
The DISA was as promised in 100% order and is holding it's vacuum - so diaphragm still good. It also came with a CCV valve, but I already have a new one I fitted a couple of months back when I also fitted the Moroso catch can / oil air separator.
For those who might like to consider the catch can mod here's a brief guide to how I approached it:-
1. The hot oily air is ejected from the hose connector on the cam cover and is fed to the inlet of the CCV.
2. Inside the CCV the air and oil are separated and excess oil is drained from the bottom of the CCV whilst the "clean" air is recycled back into the intake manifold.
3. Having had the opportunity to remove the TB and the DISA, I noticed how oily the interior of the intake manifold was. This led me to surmise that the CCV doesn't actually do a great job on it's own.
4. I bought the Moroso brand catch can and fitted it to the front chassis frame just aft of the ABS and under the windscreen washer reservoir. I had to make a special bracket, ut it's very simple. I put it there so that it would be below the level of the CCV, and also because there isn't anywhere rlse to fit it.
5. Now for the fun part... I retained the OEM elbow clip fitting at the Cam cover and also the OEM clip on connector at the inlet side of the CCV where the pipe from the cam cover connects to the CCV.
6. I then bought a meter of 20mm ID rubber hose which has a 280 C heat limit and is unaffected by oil. After removing the OEM plastic pipe from the Cam cover elbow to the CCV inlet. and connected my rubber hose which now goes to the inlet of the catch can. From the outlet side of the catch can another length of rubber hose goes back to the inlet of the CCV where I used the OEM clip on connector.
7. The system now has a "dual" filter. First the catch can with it's filter removes around 90% of the oil in the air / oil mist from the Cam cover outlet, and then feed "clean" air into the CCV, where the CCV now filters it again.
8. The benefit other than having oil free air fed into the intake is that by the time the air has passed through the Moroso and the CCV, it is a heap cooler than it would be after passing directly from the CCV to the intake. You have to wonder about the benefits of a CAI when super-heated oily air is fed into the intake directly from the CCV. That oily air is running at well over 100 C...
9. The Moroso has a short drain pipe under the bottom of the catch can with a twist type toggle tap. So every 5000 miles when doing an oil change it's a simple job to drain the collected muck out the catch can at the same time.
10. Parts required : 20mm ID High heat rubber hose. 4 x 16 - 30mm hose clamps. 4 x 10 - 20mm hose clamps. 2 x 20mm to 12mm reducers. (The catch can uses 12mm inlet and outlet barbed nozzles.) 1 x "L" bracket to fit the catch can onto. 3 x 6mm self tapping hex head screws to fit the bracket to the chassis frame. Permanent thread locker to make sure the self tappers don't work lose.
Before doing this mod, I had read and watched several Youtube vids where the CCV had been deleted. I wasn't impressed with the idea which is why I decided to retain it and let it act as a 2nd filter.
A very interesting read. I hope it goes well.
I am considering getting my 3.0 Throttle body enlarged and seeing what else can be done subtly for a few extra BHP.
I am considering getting my 3.0 Throttle body enlarged and seeing what else can be done subtly for a few extra BHP.
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2012
- Points
- 100
Thanks- Do you happen to know what the bore size is on the OEM 3.0 TB?
I would be very interested to know what it is if you do know...
I would be very interested to know what it is if you do know...
I like this catch can mod, keep thinking about doing it to the wife's M54, be interested to hear how often you have to empty the catch can.
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2012
- Points
- 100
I have had a look see after 1000kms... it may have had about 5ml of oil. So I reckon if you empty every 5000 miles when you do an oil change, that would be good.
My car has 180,000 kms on the clock - so you can gauge by that the oil bypassing the pistons. Although, having said that, the M54 has a reputation for oil consumption due to the crappy piston ring configuration BMW used on them. But in any event, if you do a check every 3000 miles, it's a simple thing to jack up the passenger side and reach under the can to open the tap and drain whatever is in it.
I'm figuring on "cleaning" the can every 20,000miles by unscrewing the lower half and removing the 2 hose clamps to the inlet and outlet then giving it a thorough wash with some petrol or carb cleaner to clear the filters of any oil.
The filters are fine steel mesh, so easy to clean.
There are catch cans and catch cans though... I chose the Moroso simply because it provided the better filtration system and also had the easy drain pipe with tap which meant it was easy to deal with for an old fart like me...
My car has 180,000 kms on the clock - so you can gauge by that the oil bypassing the pistons. Although, having said that, the M54 has a reputation for oil consumption due to the crappy piston ring configuration BMW used on them. But in any event, if you do a check every 3000 miles, it's a simple thing to jack up the passenger side and reach under the can to open the tap and drain whatever is in it.
I'm figuring on "cleaning" the can every 20,000miles by unscrewing the lower half and removing the 2 hose clamps to the inlet and outlet then giving it a thorough wash with some petrol or carb cleaner to clear the filters of any oil.
The filters are fine steel mesh, so easy to clean.
There are catch cans and catch cans though... I chose the Moroso simply because it provided the better filtration system and also had the easy drain pipe with tap which meant it was easy to deal with for an old fart like me...
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- Joined
- Apr 27, 2012
- Points
- 100
So... M54 Intake back today... Well pleased with the clean up job !!
Not a spot of gunge left inside.. or out.....
Not a spot of gunge left inside.. or out.....
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2012
- Points
- 100
The m54 IM is temporarily living under my coffee table.
I've been giving some thought to how to optimise all the "extra" airflow and having been looking at M52TU "upgrades" it has led me onto the E46 forums.
There I discovered that not only were they fitting the M54B30 IM's but also fitting the M54 3.0 intake camshafts.
The reason for the intake camshaft is that it has 0.7mm higher lift, but also aprox 15 degrees more duration in the open position. Collectively this means there is a larger gap between valve and seat plus that gap stays open longer thus allowing more time for air to be drawn into the chamber / cylinder.
So, after hunting around for a couple of weeks, I finally found an intake cam from a 2005 Z4 M54 3.0. I managed to get it for just under £60 delivered.
The task of swapping out the cam isn't difficult, in fact it;s less work than swapping out the Intake manifold. It does however require some "special tools" directly related to the Vanos timing system. Fortunately I have free access to a set of these tools and a professional BMW mechanic to assist me if I run into any questions.
My next steps will be to do both swaps at the same time over 2 days. Day 1. Remove "old" components, and Day 2. Rebuild with new parts installed.
I am led to understand that the IM takes at least 2 - 3 hours of stripping and the Cam about 2 hours. Given breaks for tea and a natter, this is a full day job at my pace.
What I expect in gains is mostly hearsay. Some forum members claim 1/2 second gains over 1/4 mile after the IM swap. On the E46 forums there are claims of 20HP doing the cam swap. Equally, on the E46 forums, there are claims of 7 - 13 HP gains for the IM swap.
I will likely need to do a re-map after the new parts are installed, and will then compare the outcome with the BMW specs for the M52TU.
I'll only get the re-map done next year though, but whatever the results, I shall be posting them here for the benefit of all who may already be contemplating these modifications, or have only made the IM mod. Hopefully it will be positive enough to warrant the expense, or conclusively dissuade others from spending their £'s in that direction.
I would love to see a reasonable gain in HP and torque, plus raise the max power curve above 5500 rpm.
BTW. The M54 3.0 Intake cam is a direct fit into the M52TU. No alterations, adaptations or other changes required. The M54 exhaust cam is exactly the same as the M52TU exhaust cam, so no "cheap" change there. I say cheap because the M54 intake cams are easily available and compared to Schrick cams they are the best part of 2/3 's plus as good.
The Schricks provide 1mm of extra lift and another 12 degrees of duration. However, fitting them requires more finesse in terms of timing.
There is the question of "overlap". This is what happens when the exhaust and intake valves are both open in an overlap scenario, and fuel mixture is pumped into the exhaust, or intake valve is open before exhaust has fully completed, resulting in insufficient volume for a full intake of fuel / air mix.
So, for a £60 outlay for the cam vs £100's for Schricks or their equivalents, I am happy to go 2/3's.
Lastly, I bought the Bimmertune IM adapter plate, since it acknowledged as the best available. Since buying it, I have read of instances where it was used, of the rubber tube housing the MAF rubbing up against the front strut housing. It seems the extra 10mm of the adapter plate is causing this. I have considered the issue, and I believe it can be comfortably sorted out by making a small but innovative change in the way the adapter plate does it's work. I will be aiming at reducing the thickness of the plate from 10mm to just 5mm.
It's a simple solution, and although the plate design will not change in it's shape, the method of attaching it to the M54 IM and the method of mounting the OEM Throttle body will change. The result will be an equally strong and sealed fitting, but will allow the clearance of the re-built components to be free of any unwanted contact with the engine bay body. More on that when I have actually got the revision in my hands and can do the fitment to ensure my claim is as good as I imagine it will be. If it is, it will also make fitting other related / adjacent to the Throttle body parts less of a hassle.
I've been giving some thought to how to optimise all the "extra" airflow and having been looking at M52TU "upgrades" it has led me onto the E46 forums.
There I discovered that not only were they fitting the M54B30 IM's but also fitting the M54 3.0 intake camshafts.
The reason for the intake camshaft is that it has 0.7mm higher lift, but also aprox 15 degrees more duration in the open position. Collectively this means there is a larger gap between valve and seat plus that gap stays open longer thus allowing more time for air to be drawn into the chamber / cylinder.
So, after hunting around for a couple of weeks, I finally found an intake cam from a 2005 Z4 M54 3.0. I managed to get it for just under £60 delivered.
The task of swapping out the cam isn't difficult, in fact it;s less work than swapping out the Intake manifold. It does however require some "special tools" directly related to the Vanos timing system. Fortunately I have free access to a set of these tools and a professional BMW mechanic to assist me if I run into any questions.
My next steps will be to do both swaps at the same time over 2 days. Day 1. Remove "old" components, and Day 2. Rebuild with new parts installed.
I am led to understand that the IM takes at least 2 - 3 hours of stripping and the Cam about 2 hours. Given breaks for tea and a natter, this is a full day job at my pace.
What I expect in gains is mostly hearsay. Some forum members claim 1/2 second gains over 1/4 mile after the IM swap. On the E46 forums there are claims of 20HP doing the cam swap. Equally, on the E46 forums, there are claims of 7 - 13 HP gains for the IM swap.
I will likely need to do a re-map after the new parts are installed, and will then compare the outcome with the BMW specs for the M52TU.
I'll only get the re-map done next year though, but whatever the results, I shall be posting them here for the benefit of all who may already be contemplating these modifications, or have only made the IM mod. Hopefully it will be positive enough to warrant the expense, or conclusively dissuade others from spending their £'s in that direction.
I would love to see a reasonable gain in HP and torque, plus raise the max power curve above 5500 rpm.
BTW. The M54 3.0 Intake cam is a direct fit into the M52TU. No alterations, adaptations or other changes required. The M54 exhaust cam is exactly the same as the M52TU exhaust cam, so no "cheap" change there. I say cheap because the M54 intake cams are easily available and compared to Schrick cams they are the best part of 2/3 's plus as good.
The Schricks provide 1mm of extra lift and another 12 degrees of duration. However, fitting them requires more finesse in terms of timing.
There is the question of "overlap". This is what happens when the exhaust and intake valves are both open in an overlap scenario, and fuel mixture is pumped into the exhaust, or intake valve is open before exhaust has fully completed, resulting in insufficient volume for a full intake of fuel / air mix.
So, for a £60 outlay for the cam vs £100's for Schricks or their equivalents, I am happy to go 2/3's.
Lastly, I bought the Bimmertune IM adapter plate, since it acknowledged as the best available. Since buying it, I have read of instances where it was used, of the rubber tube housing the MAF rubbing up against the front strut housing. It seems the extra 10mm of the adapter plate is causing this. I have considered the issue, and I believe it can be comfortably sorted out by making a small but innovative change in the way the adapter plate does it's work. I will be aiming at reducing the thickness of the plate from 10mm to just 5mm.
It's a simple solution, and although the plate design will not change in it's shape, the method of attaching it to the M54 IM and the method of mounting the OEM Throttle body will change. The result will be an equally strong and sealed fitting, but will allow the clearance of the re-built components to be free of any unwanted contact with the engine bay body. More on that when I have actually got the revision in my hands and can do the fitment to ensure my claim is as good as I imagine it will be. If it is, it will also make fitting other related / adjacent to the Throttle body parts less of a hassle.
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I've had mine remapped after the M54 manifold conversion, unfortunately it wasn't dyno'd before the manifold but the figures were 200hp after the manifold conversion and 220hp after the remap. If it was putting out the BMW quoted 193hp (which I doubt, probably lost a few) to start then it was only a 7hp gain. Certainly felt a hell of a lot better though once it was done and is a definite cheap mod for any M52TU to get some extra power. I don't think the gains are a much as them from the M50 conversion but it's certainly worth doing.
Be nice to see some actual figures though from before and after and not just talk of it's given me 20-30hp increase like you find all over the internet. You will do very well, if at all to see these gains just from the M54 conversion.
Be nice to see some actual figures though from before and after and not just talk of it's given me 20-30hp increase like you find all over the internet. You will do very well, if at all to see these gains just from the M54 conversion.
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2012
- Points
- 100
Interesting..... if you managed 220 after the remap, then you're 27 up on stock. I have no doubt that a remap was required to make use of the improved intake aspects of the M54 IM you fitted.
I'll be interested to see what the IM plus the M54 cam will deliver before and after a remap and by comparison to the OEM stock numbers.
I'll be interested to see what the IM plus the M54 cam will deliver before and after a remap and by comparison to the OEM stock numbers.
I was 193 dead pre manifold and last run 211 so i saw 18bhp and a significant difference in low end torque with a free reving top end.
It was worth doing.
It was worth doing.
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2012
- Points
- 100
That's still a good gain for what is a relatively cheap mod. Almost 10% increase. Did you also do a remap after the swap?
I
I
I wish I had mine on the dyno prior to the conversion to see what gains it gave me. I felt a huge difference also after doing it.I was 193 dead pre manifold and last run 211 so i saw 18bhp and a significant difference in low end torque with a free reving top end.
It was worth doing.
No remap after the swap for me i was advised little could be done and the one i spoke to advised a waste of money.
I did have a map flashed on to it but it produced no power just changed the curve and drivability.
I did have a map flashed on to it but it produced no power just changed the curve and drivability.
I wouldn't go by comparison of the OEM stock numbers as it's likely they are not 100% accurate, you may have had more or less to start with and most likely have lost a few. The only way to see exact gains is to have a dyno before and after each mod.
Would be nice to find some one to reliably remap it live and see what it may produce but it does drive very well
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- Apr 27, 2012
- Points
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Being at almost 6000ft above sea level here, I lose a heap of power compared to sea level aprox 18% of HP.
So on the stock start number I start at 158hp... so even with the mods, I'll be hard pressed to make 193...
So on the stock start number I start at 158hp... so even with the mods, I'll be hard pressed to make 193...
When I had mine done the guy said there would be no guarantee of any performance gains but would improve drivability and iron out the flat spots. I am not convinced it felt a 20hp increase but it did make the car drive better and smoother. It was also live map tailored to the car and not a generic one. Yours is pushing out a decent figure with what you have done, any sort of map would probably not take it much further as there is only so much you can get out of this engine without spending a lot more.
Have you had it dyno'd? You might be surprised, a lot of the figures BMW throw out are not 100% accurate especially on the 2.8, some are actually higher. I would get it confirmed what your starting out on and then see the exact figure of what each mod is giving out.
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- Apr 27, 2012
- Points
- 100
Good point - might be worth a look at the stock out put first...
A lot of the single vanos 2.8's put out more power than stock and most are 20+ years old now, have a look at the dyno thread that gives some of the figures some members achieved they are impressive. Be nice to see how the dual vanos compares.