M52tu B28 to M54 330i manifold swap.why

[Dino D]

Seeing as though you've done all the hard work of getting the inlet off it would be rude not bolt on a supercharger whilst you in there and all that...think of all the labour you have saved not paying a garage, it can fund the SC.
Go on, you know it's man logic that make sense!

 

[Rha]

Seeing as though you've done all the hard work of getting the inlet off it would be rude not bolt on a supercharger whilst you in there and all that...think of all the labour you have saved not paying a garage, it can fund the SC.
Go on, you know it's man logic that make sense!

I know your right Dino but bolting a SC on will most likely put a strain on something that just wasn't designed to take all that extra power, yes we've beefed up the sus and some bushes but the extra cost of upgrading the clutch and braking system to cope puts the SC way out of my league(not to mention insurance), really no point in swapping a ZM engine into a 2.8 shell for the same reason, yes you have the power but can you afford to beef the rest up to match, a little extra nearer the top end might just be enough to satisfy the need for more livelyness over 85mph in 4th. What do you think...............(Should've bought a Z3M I know)
Roy.

 

[t-tony]

I know your right Dino but bolting a SC on will most likely put a strain on something that just wasn't designed to take all that extra power, yes we've beefed up the sus and some bushes but the extra cost of upgrading the clutch and braking system to cope puts the SC way out of my league(not to mention insurance), really no point in swapping a ZM engine into a 2.8 shell for the same reason, yes you have the power but can you afford to beef the rest up to match, a little extra nearer the top end might just be enough to satisfy the need for more livelyness over 85mph in 4th. What do you think...............(Should've bought a Z3M I know)
Roy.

Should've bought a Z4M

Tony.

 

[Rha]

Just as a matter of interest, was there a pipe attached to the little stubby bit on the CCVV? Changed mine a while ago, but couldn't see anything there, and somehow doesn't seem right to have a leak to atmosphere from there.

Hi Nefyn, not sure which stubby bit you mean but I can tell you this, I'm ready to put it all back on and I've taken no pics but did start to label it all up then decided my memory for mech bits is and was really good, now I'm looking at it and I'm not sure at all, hope it will all fall into place. I'll have a quick look to see if I can figure out which part you referring to, take my phone and get some pics that might help.
Here's what it might be; looking at the pic of my CCV there is a 1/8 vac pipe protruding with a yellow stripe runnng along its entire length and you can see it exits above the mani in the pic(shows up against the white wall) if my memory serves me well it connects to the fuel pressure relief valve on the fuel rail. Hope this helps, if not try and get me a pic of this stubby bit with no pipe.
Rha, Roy.

 

[Rha]

Should've bought a Z4M

Tony.

T..t
Should've known better than to post that.

 

[Rha]

Got into all sorts of trouble last night when I brought the old mani fold back to the house, left it in the out house with the door open into the hall, well I'd been working under the smell of petrol and oil all afternoon and when asked "what's that smell" l immediately lifted my arm, you can guess the rest. Must admit the house did smell like Tony's garage in the morning. So I was booted out into the garden today to finish getting it ready to go back on, nearly got court in downpour but just finished in the nick of time, yes it's back in the house again but it's the 330i manifold which was so clean from the scrappy's and there's been no comment so far, it is hidden under an old sheet though. Might get a chance to fit it tomorrow although I've not decided wether to send injectors away to be refurbed, could leave it seeing that the're accessible after the event.
Roy.

 

[Lee]

I know your right Dino but bolting a SC on will most likely put a strain on something that just wasn't designed to take all that extra power, yes we've beefed up the sus and some bushes but the extra cost of upgrading the clutch and braking system to cope puts the SC way out of my league(not to mention insurance), really no point in swapping a ZM engine into a 2.8 shell for the same reason, yes you have the power but can you afford to beef the rest up to match, a little extra nearer the top end might just be enough to satisfy the need for more livelyness over 85mph in 4th. What do you think...............(Should've bought a Z3M I know)
Roy.

It will work more than you know, the tolerances in these BMW engines are amazing, most of the components have huge safety margins. The SC run at very low boosts so the heat load on the engine is minimal. Those clutch's are rated to handle a lot more torque you just shorten its life. Worst case you just fit a M3 clutch. The power increase from the SC is only 80-100bhp at best, well within the chassis limits. The biggest issue is finding insurance. I've finally found a company that will do mine. whoops did I say that out loud

 

[Dino D]

This chap has just done it in the US, not much info but might help you @Rha

Now why you looking for more shove at over 85mph, you spending too much time in Germany?
No room to get over 50round here!

 

[Rha]

Dino did I actually put 85 when I meant 55.

Roy

 

[Rha]

It will work more than you know, the tolerances in these BMW engines are amazing, most of the components have huge safety margins. The SC run at very low boosts so the heat load on the engine is minimal. Those clutch's are rated to handle a lot more torque you just shorten its life. Worst case you just fit a M3 clutch. The power increase from the SC is only 80-100bhp at best, well within the chassis limits. The biggest issue is finding insurance. I've finally found a company that will do mine. whoops did I say that out loud

Know your also right Lee. Maybe one day sooner rather than later, but untill then I'll play with my old 2.8.
Roy.

 

[the Nefyn cat]

Hi there, looks like that could be the one, it's bit number 6 in this
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/showparts?id=CN12-EUR-01-2002-Z3-BMW-Z3_22i&diagId=11_6220
couldn't see anything when I changed the valve, not a lot of space to get my head in to.

 

[Rha]

That's probably one of the only ones I'm gonna get right when I put it all back, it's been a week now and my memory isn't what it used to be. You could go to Halfords for a1mtr length of 3mm for about £3, comes with two clamps which I didn't use cos it's vacuum and goes on nice and tight. Got some left but it's a road too far for me to get it to you.
Good luck.
Roy.

 

[the Nefyn cat]

No problem getting pipe, and it's quite possible it's still in there somewhere, just that I changed the CCVV and couldn't find anything to connect to the little stub so put a blanking plug that happened to be lying around on it instead. Didn't pull a pipe off while changing the valve, may not have been there to start with, car runs fine without, would like to be sure that things are right. Shame BMW couldn't have fitted it somewhere a bit more accessible.

 

[Rha]

Well it's all back together, took about 4hrs this afternoon and just finished in the fading light.

It started and tickover was just fine so I left it running parked on a nice dry piece of concrete, no check engine lights but didn't have time to put my scanner on. No leaks of any description and she revs nicely, no time for road test but as I turned Z around to go in frontwards I noticed the temp guage reading right over the red, switched off then switched ignition on and the needle went straight back over the red even though the engine was not overly hot, looks like I might have to remove mani to check the connection. Just my luck for it to be the coolant temp sender unit even though I'm sure I connected it. Mind you it was a bit of a nightmare with so many electrical connections.
Another slight problem again brought on by the extra 10mm adapter plate was that after mounting the TB then the ICV the main electrical junction box bracket that sits just under the mani was pushed forward so much that I couldn't connect the left hand bracket bolt, so made one longer M6 bolt with two nuts acting as a spacer (middle left pic below) pushes this bracket more than 10mm out away from original threaded bolt hole. This does put a bit of strain on some of the wires but think I've got away with it, also throws the rubber boot out more and as a conciquince the angle back towards the MAF censor is greater and tries to squish the concertina part closeing the internal circumference a little which we really don't want. I'll try and get a silicone boot to replace the OEM which will allow me to cut it down to get over this problem. It also puts the TB accelerator cable adjuster closer to the Actuator and mine has now been adjusted right up to the last few threads (top Right pic below) in order to get butterfly fully open. Shouldn't be an on going problem if the cable has been stretched over a long period.

Rha, Roy.

 

[Antm72]

Great work Roy hopefully an easy fix on the temp side must be wiring as you have not disturbed the water side.
Looking forward to your how it drives report

 

[Rha]

Wish I was as hopefull as you Ant but the least it can be is maybe a airlock at the sensor itself but can't think it would make the guage shoot right over to the max. It'll be mani off again I'm thinking just to check it's connected the right way round, but again I'm sure you can't get the connector on on reverse. Only good thing to come out of this problem is I reackon I can get it off pretty quick this time round.

 

[t-tony]

Wish I was as hopefull as you Ant but the least it can be is maybe a airlock at the sensor itself but can't think it would make the guage shoot right over to the max. It'll be mani off again I'm thinking just to check it's connected the right way round, but again I'm sure you can't get the connector on on reverse. Only good thing to come out of this problem is I reackon I can get it off pretty quick this time round.

As Ant said its most likely an electrical connection issue rather than it actually being too hot. Good that it fired up and ran well straight from the off too Roy. Hope you get to the bottom of it quickly mate.

Tony.

 

[gookah]

don't understand all these problems your having?
mine bolted straight on my M52TU with no modifications.
My only issue was that I was originally supplied with the wrong TB adaptor plate. the first one had no o ring groove, and the holes were out of line. one I had the correct one it was straightforward...

 

[oldcarman]

I agree with both Ant and Tony! Try running the car for a bit longer and see if the temp gauge starts to drop, as opposed to going from cold to hot normally. Don't know for sure if that will work that way but may indicate the connector is backwards!! Great job so far hope it works as you think!! JIM

 

[Rha]

As Ant said its most likely an electrical connection issue rather than it actually being too hot. Good that it fired up and ran well straight from the off too Roy. Hope you get to the bottom of it quickly mate.

Tony.

Thanks Tony, just can't see it being the car's fault, must be something I've done. Been reading up on this fault and it seems cos I lost a lttle coolant it might have caused a air lock at the sender and not cleared yet. Other advise is disconnect the batt for five min, reconnect and see if it clears. Have all day tomorrow to try and sort it so fingers crossed.
Roy.