M44 coolant pump refusing to `come out'

[t-tony]

Some gentle heating around the pump might help.

Tony.

 

[Mazza]

But not this much heat

 

[t-tony]

Praps not

Tony.

 

[mrscalex]

I've always done it with bolts. I did have one fail but it was on a breaker (albeit trying to recover a nearly new pump). I put it down to using low grade bolts which sheared off. Haven't done one since but will be using grade 8.8 bolts.

 

[e36Ballen]

Have to confess I've never used a slide hammer so cannot comment - I'm sure there are a few guys on here who can advise - @Lee , @t-tony @mrscalex to name a few (other brands are available ).

My method meant I was not putting a force inwards against the plate but pulling the pump outwards with the plate attached by the seal.

I do not have A/C so on the M44 there was plenty of room. I would suggest you put the puller on and give it a gentle squeeze - with luck it will move.

EDIT - just found this in my files - this guy used to strips of angle iron to spread load.View attachment 124397

Awesome thanks so much

 

[e36Ballen]

Some gentle heating around the pump might help.

Tony.

I'm kinda regreting that I did not start or warm up the car first before doing the water pump. I'm in the last stages of my cooling system overhaul. I didn't want the new heater hose running from the cylinder head be put on an old radiator because it's a pain to remove hoses once they're set. So I decided to just remove the old radiator and thermostat but the water pump happened.... But oh well

 

[t-tony]

An electric heat gun may be enough if you have one.

Tony.

 

[e36Ballen]

Have to confess I've never used a slide hammer so cannot comment - I'm sure there are a few guys on here who can advise - @Lee , @t-tony @mrscalex to name a few (other brands are available ).

My method meant I was not putting a force inwards against the plate but pulling the pump outwards with the plate attached by the seal.

I do not have A/C so on the M44 there was plenty of room. I would suggest you put the puller on and give it a gentle squeeze - with luck it will move.

EDIT - just found this in my files - this guy used to strips of angle iron to spread load.View attachment 124397

By the way did you ever use WD-40 to help pull it out? I hear others have used it to help pull the water pump out.

 

[t-tony]

You can get a spray to "freeze" things, this might be a better way to go if you can get some. Spray the water pump body not the housing.

Tony.

 

[jonco]

By the way did you ever use WD-40 to help pull it out? I hear others have used it to help pull the water pump out.

Certainly did refer to initial comments - left it soaking overnight - once it started to move slowly continued spraying.

 

[Johnwindwood]

WD40 is not really ideal for freeing seized parts. Shell out the extra and buy PlusGas releasing fluid-MUCH more effective-in fact it has never let me down.

 

[GeoffZ]

I did my M44 cooling system overhaul in the Summer. It won't help now but, when I wound the two bolts in to push the pump out, I was careful to ensure they were both seated and tightened equally and at a quarter of one turn at a time. After each equal tweak, I tapped the pump body lightly with a hammer. It is very easy to effectively jamb the pump body in the aperture by forcing it out, out of square. My car is a 97 and it was the original pump.

 

[e36Ballen]

Certainly did refer to initial comments - left it soaking overnight - once it started to move slowly continued spraying.

lol sorry i'm reading multiple threads. gotcha.

 

[e36Ballen]

I did my M44 cooling system overhaul in the Summer. It won't help now but, when I wound the two bolts in to push the pump out, I was careful to ensure they were both seated and tightened equally and at a quarter of one turn at a time. After each equal tweak, I tapped the pump body lightly with a hammer. It is very easy to effectively jamb the pump body in the aperture by forcing it out, out of square. My car is a 97 and it was the original pump.

Same here. But like others, even if you're careful, the pump can be pretty seized with a hardened o-ring for the previous owner didn't replace it on time. The longer you wait, the higher probability the o-ring gets stuck.

It's the same thing when I replaced the cooling pipes on the block and cylinder head, they were hardened such that it was difficult to removed until I twisted them.

I saw yellowish deposits as well which I believe is from the previous coolant. The previous owner didn't use BMW BLUE but an amber coolant perhaps Zerex G-05 or Peak Global Lifetime. This then convinced me further to use BMW BLUE and following an interval change.

 

[jonco]

........... The previous owner didn't use BMW BLUE but an amber coolant perhaps Zerex G-05 or Peak Global Lifetime. This then convinced me further to use BMW BLUE and following an interval change.

I do not know what my car's previous owner used but having seen some of the tricks `he' pulled if it had been changed I doubt whether it was BMW spec . However, there were no deposits and O ring did not feel hardened - mileage was 64k.
I have used Comma X GS 48 since (which complies with BMW specification) at three year change interval - you can get it at reasonable on-line prices.

 

[Grenville]

Diesel is much better than canned sprays. Good in squirt bottles or in old tins to soak "frozen" or rusted parts in overnight.

 

[Grenville]

It's an old bushie's trick.

 

[GeoffZ]

I will add that when I fitted the replacement pump, I lubricated the rubber seal with silicon grease. The next poor soul will probably thank me for this!

 

[e36Ballen]

Is white lithium grease okay?

I'm deciding what to put on the water pump o-ring to ensure easy removal later on.

I do not know what my car's previous owner used but having seen some of the tricks `he' pulled if it had been changed I doubt whether it was BMW spec . However, there were no deposits and O ring did not feel hardened - mileage was 64k.
I have used Comma X GS 48 since (which complies with BMW specification) at three year change interval - you can get it at reasonable on-line prices.

GS-48 is the equivalent of BMW Blue. GS-48 here is not easily available. It's supposed to be under a xerex valvoline brand but I see mostly GS-05.

 

[jonco]

...................GS-48 is the equivalent of BMW Blue. GS-48 here is not easily available. It's supposed to be under a xerex valvoline brand but I see mostly GS-05.

I've probably missed it in another post but where are you based?

https://www.commaoil.com/passenger-vehicles/products/view/563