Fixing My Daily...Daily

Is that remnants of the outer sill we are seeing? As for the other rust get an angle grinder on it with a wire wheel and get to bare metal to see how bad it is. If you do t have one you can get a cheap corded one from B&Q, screwfix or toolstation for £25 for a macallister on or £40 - £50 for a Makita, wire wheels I get from Amazon but screwfix have one https://www.screwfix.com/p/norton-expert-crimped-cup-brush-75mm/8931h

can you take a photo just a bit further back to get an overall picture as well.
 
The issue isn’t whether they were right or not it is how they arrived at their decision which is at fault. Is that the front or rear end of the sill Al? Can you post a bigger picture please?

Tony.
 
The rot at the front end of the sill is not a reason for failure unless it is within 30cm of the front outer seat mounting which comes under seatbelt as the buckle is fastened to the seat frame.

Tony.
 
I have serious doubt that should have failed to be honest.

Tony.
 
Take a screwdriver to it and see if it’s solid or if it goes through.
 
Maybe, maybe not but it's the inner sill so that's a structural piece of the car right? It's not exactly in a good condition to drive?

Agreed it’s not in the best condition but the MOT test is aimed at the lowest acceptable standard and as such is governed by a set of rules which testers have to abide by (even if they don’t like or agree with them). Unless that excessive corrosion is within 30cm of any braking, steering, suspension or seatbelt component it is bodywork to all intents and purposes. The only likely time it would become apparent would’ve been in an accident.

Tony.
 
I have a 9" angle grinder you could collect to borrow Al. I offered it to Sean but I recall correct Mike @mwpe stepped in with his at Andy's @spurs fan in a coupe place.

Tony.
 
I have a 9" angle grinder you could collect to borrow Al. I offered it to Sean but I recall correct Mike @mwpe stepped in with his at Andy's @spurs fan in a coupe place.

Tony.

Thanks Tony, I have one but it needs a new handle as the old one broke off when I was cutting the ends off the spare wheel cage :bag:

If I can't get a new handle I'll take you up on your offer!

I don't think I'll be able to work on the car much longer as I'm heading back down to London soon so I'll cut away all the rust, clean up the metal and paint over it. Hopefully it'll stay dry under cover until I can get the bits together to fix it.
 
Having taken off the outer sills and wheel arch liners it is clear to see the rust on my 2002 Z3 . As due diligence I have scrapped of all the surface rust and poked areas with a screwdriver, cleaned with wire brush, flat angle grinder and wire wheel in drill.

Surprisingly most was top rust and the integrity remains. With the exception in the front wheel arch in top mount rails, which looking is probably common ?

Next was to treat this vehicle with some rust prevention, well having spent years in trade and getting covered in wax oil decided not to opt for the Hammerite due to the smell and dripping and general mess.

Then I remembered DINITROL that I used on a customers car that he supplied and it went on great, less drips and no smell as I remember.

I used REGEL Company and bought the Mazda MX-5 kit aerosols. With the RC900 which is a rust convertor and primer, highly recommend. Sprayed on areas of concern.

Applied a wax oil to the inner sills, removed bungs from wheel arches and filled with wax oil. Sprayed RC900 along inner sills, then covered with black spray undersealer as well as the floor. I must say it went on great. wheel arches done as well.Very pleased.

Result in images...

https://rejel.com/dingkmx5kit1/
 

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That looks like a good job you're doing Neil and the finish looks very good.:thumbsup:

Tony.
 
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