First time clutch replacement M54 2.2

Lee

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There's no other items that we've encountered that have issues with the movement, this must be 20+ gearbox jobs now.
 

Brian H

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This thread is superb, full of great advice and top tips, well done to all who contributed. A+ from me :thumbsup:
 
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NZ00Z3

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I forgot to mention the aptly named "b*****d Clip" that holds the shifting arm onto the rear of the transmission. Part #25111221849. You need a small screw driver to hold the retaining clip up, while you rotate the clip. All done by feel with no line of sight. Sometimes it is just easier to remove the transmission with the shifting arm attached, so you can see what you are doing to get the clip off.
 

t-tony

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A similar clip was used on vauxhall exhaust rubbers amongst others. What you need is a round tapered tool to push into the top part of the clip. This opens the clip and gives you leverage to remove it.

Tony
 

mrscalex

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This thread is superb, full of great advice and top tips, well done to all who contributed. A+ from me :thumbsup:
Yes. The job would have been so much more difficult already without these tips.

Just the 2 top bolts to get out now and the box is out. And they will be pigs I can see that. I looked at a 500mm extension bar but they are about £30.

The shift arm clip is out but was stubborn. I have done an engine and box together before so was okay at that end of things.
 

t-tony

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Don't leave the hardest ones till last mate. If you have removed all others I would replace one that is easy to access and take it out last. Can you access the top ones from the engine bay using a spanner?

Tony.
 

mrscalex

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Don't leave the hardest ones till last mate. If you have removed all others I would replace one that is easy to access and take it out last. Can you access the top ones from the engine bay using a spanner?

Tony.
Just come in for the night. I managed to get the 2 top ones out with the customary combination of angle joint and extensions. It was a tense negotation but I suceeded in return for a quantity of skin from my knuckles and hitting my head twice. Bargain. The starter is out with a wallop from a long piece of timber from under the car. And all the other bolts are cracked.

So I've just got to finalise my wooden cradle, if I use one and it will be out tomorrow.
 

t-tony

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Well done mate. Be careful.:) One thing I do not miss is chunks of knuckles going awol Rob.

Tony.
 

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Well it’s out. Took me long enough but I encountered no real issues as such and the gearbox dropped really nicely. So thanks all for a great team effort. Hopefully this thread will be useful to others in the future.

Here’s the jack assembly I used. Same as I used for the diff previously.

EC41365A-F419-446A-9080-E49F8BF96638.jpeg

63A99915-E05C-4BFF-BE35-DA2857074101.jpeg
6E7EAEBB-309B-4D13-BD2E-332130D63480.jpeg


I left the support bracket on to give a bit of extra purchase to unstick from engine block. I think it probably did help and didn’t get in the way.

79B380E2-86E2-4564-B270-6F073949EB36.jpeg


The flywheel is well gone. Black heat spots. Brown spots is just some faint rust where it’s been sat. Internal spring mechanism shows no sign of life.

E3119F8A-063F-4ADC-A882-64ABF24943BA.jpeg
 

Pingu

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When you sling it back together, check the clutch lever arm. Sometimes the indent gets damaged and can lead to the slave cylinder pin pushing through the arm.

You should also pre-load the propshaft by pushing it towards the gearbox before tightening the bolts around the bearing carrier.

They recommend that you change the bearing, but I've never changed it.
 

mrscalex

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When you sling it back together, check the clutch lever arm. Sometimes the indent gets damaged and can lead to the slave cylinder pin pushing through the arm.

You should also pre-load the propshaft by pushing it towards the gearbox before tightening the bolts around the bearing carrier.

They recommend that you change the bearing, but I've never changed it.
Thanks. I’ve not had the arm assembly out to examine closely yet but I did confirm the release bearing was knackered which is why it had to come apart originally.

Will certainly be putting a few mm of pre-load on the propshaft.
 

mrscalex

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Can I get recommendations for locking the new flywheel to torque up please? I've seen various tools and improvisations when I googled but nothing for an M54.
 

Lee

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Can I get recommendations for locking the new flywheel to torque up please? I've seen various tools and improvisations when I googled but nothing for an M54.
We have two methods, breaker bar on the front harmonic balancer stopping the crank turning, or crudely a flat blade screwdriver side onto the flywheel using the dowel to lever. Not a huge amount of torque needed as the bolts have locktight on them new.
 

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Too late now, but replacing the original set up with a single mass flywheel and sprung clutch from an E34 520i or E36 320i would have been a plan. A fair bit lighter and they feel nicer to use.

With the box out, replace the nylon pivot for the clutch arm. A couple of quid from BMW and normally in stock. Release bearings can have two fitted positions (shallow or deep) depending on engine so take a pic of your old one before you remove it. There should be witness marks on the old one though. Clean up the input shaft splines as well as the release bearing shaft and give the latter the lightest smear of grease. Some clutch kits come with a sachet.
 

Lee

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Too late now, but replacing the original set up with a single mass flywheel and sprung clutch from an E34 520i or E36 320i would have been a plan. A fair bit lighter and they feel nicer to use.

With the box out, replace the nylon pivot for the clutch arm. A couple of quid from BMW and normally in stock. Release bearings can have two fitted positions (shallow or deep) depending on engine so take a pic of your old one before you remove it. There should be witness marks on the old one though. Clean up the input shaft splines as well as the release bearing shaft and give the latter the lightest smear of grease. Some clutch kits come with a sachet.
Just to add, we've never come across any release bearings with two positions, they seem to be fixed with the z3. We've fitted LUK, Various race kits and valeo and Sachs.
 

mrscalex

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We have two methods, breaker bar on the front harmonic balancer stopping the crank turning, or crudely a flat blade screwdriver side onto the flywheel using the dowel to lever. Not a huge amount of torque needed as the bolts have locktight on them new.
Thanks @Lee . Was looking for something simple like that.
 

mrscalex

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Too late now, but replacing the original set up with a single mass flywheel and sprung clutch from an E34 520i or E36 320i would have been a plan. A fair bit lighter and they feel nicer to use.

With the box out, replace the nylon pivot for the clutch arm. A couple of quid from BMW and normally in stock. Release bearings can have two fitted positions (shallow or deep) depending on engine so take a pic of your old one before you remove it. There should be witness marks on the old one though. Clean up the input shaft splines as well as the release bearing shaft and give the latter the lightest smear of grease. Some clutch kits come with a sachet.
Thanks.

It's not too late actually. But I think I'd rather stick with the factory set-up.

I did read-up about that nylon pivot. I think you can get a metal replacement too. Might as well make it all nice and smooth while I'm in there. I'll be replacing all the bushing on the gear-lever linkages too.
 
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Pingu

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Thanks. I’ve not had the arm assembly out to examine closely yet but I did confirm the release bearing was knackered which is why it had to come apart originally.

Will certainly be putting a few mm of pre-load on the propshaft.
I was meaning the bearing in the engine (I think they call it a pilot bearing - it's the one in your photo of the flywheel). I'd always replace the release bearing.
 

t-tony

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Sometimes referred to as the “Spigot Besring”

Tony.
 
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