There's no other items that we've encountered that have issues with the movement, this must be 20+ gearbox jobs now.
And that will include cars with air-con. So I'll shut up and get on with it nowThere's no other items that we've encountered that have issues with the movement, this must be 20+ gearbox jobs now.
Yes. The job would have been so much more difficult already without these tips.This thread is superb, full of great advice and top tips, well done to all who contributed. A+ from me
Just come in for the night. I managed to get the 2 top ones out with the customary combination of angle joint and extensions. It was a tense negotation but I suceeded in return for a quantity of skin from my knuckles and hitting my head twice. Bargain. The starter is out with a wallop from a long piece of timber from under the car. And all the other bolts are cracked.Don't leave the hardest ones till last mate. If you have removed all others I would replace one that is easy to access and take it out last. Can you access the top ones from the engine bay using a spanner?
Tony.
Thanks. I’ve not had the arm assembly out to examine closely yet but I did confirm the release bearing was knackered which is why it had to come apart originally.When you sling it back together, check the clutch lever arm. Sometimes the indent gets damaged and can lead to the slave cylinder pin pushing through the arm.
You should also pre-load the propshaft by pushing it towards the gearbox before tightening the bolts around the bearing carrier.
They recommend that you change the bearing, but I've never changed it.
We have two methods, breaker bar on the front harmonic balancer stopping the crank turning, or crudely a flat blade screwdriver side onto the flywheel using the dowel to lever. Not a huge amount of torque needed as the bolts have locktight on them new.Can I get recommendations for locking the new flywheel to torque up please? I've seen various tools and improvisations when I googled but nothing for an M54.
Just to add, we've never come across any release bearings with two positions, they seem to be fixed with the z3. We've fitted LUK, Various race kits and valeo and Sachs.Too late now, but replacing the original set up with a single mass flywheel and sprung clutch from an E34 520i or E36 320i would have been a plan. A fair bit lighter and they feel nicer to use.
With the box out, replace the nylon pivot for the clutch arm. A couple of quid from BMW and normally in stock. Release bearings can have two fitted positions (shallow or deep) depending on engine so take a pic of your old one before you remove it. There should be witness marks on the old one though. Clean up the input shaft splines as well as the release bearing shaft and give the latter the lightest smear of grease. Some clutch kits come with a sachet.
Thanks @Lee . Was looking for something simple like that.We have two methods, breaker bar on the front harmonic balancer stopping the crank turning, or crudely a flat blade screwdriver side onto the flywheel using the dowel to lever. Not a huge amount of torque needed as the bolts have locktight on them new.
Thanks.Too late now, but replacing the original set up with a single mass flywheel and sprung clutch from an E34 520i or E36 320i would have been a plan. A fair bit lighter and they feel nicer to use.
With the box out, replace the nylon pivot for the clutch arm. A couple of quid from BMW and normally in stock. Release bearings can have two fitted positions (shallow or deep) depending on engine so take a pic of your old one before you remove it. There should be witness marks on the old one though. Clean up the input shaft splines as well as the release bearing shaft and give the latter the lightest smear of grease. Some clutch kits come with a sachet.
I was meaning the bearing in the engine (I think they call it a pilot bearing - it's the one in your photo of the flywheel). I'd always replace the release bearing.Thanks. I’ve not had the arm assembly out to examine closely yet but I did confirm the release bearing was knackered which is why it had to come apart originally.
Will certainly be putting a few mm of pre-load on the propshaft.