Corroded wing mirror fix

Woodsta888

Zorg Legend
British Zeds
Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Points
74
Location
Exmouth, Devon
Model of Z
2.0
As a lurker on here I felt obliged to post a fix as this forum and its content has helped me considerably in buying (She paid me back ((Just this month)) and maintaining my other halfs Z3.

Was on the way back from my folks and whilst on the long 270 degree sliproad to join the dual-carriage way, I noticed the light change to my right in my peripheral view. The wing mirror had dropped slightly and was wobbling. Stopping on the sliproad I thought I could pop it back in, thinking I'd knocked it when filling up with petrol minutes before. But as I pulled it back up a load of rust fell out of the bottom and the thing was loose in my hand. Only the wires for the mirror adjustmnt and demister holding it on. Had no tools so had to leave it dangling. Paintwork! I thought. Tied a t shirt from my bag around it but that lasted to 50mph or 200m. I thought the first aid kit was just for humans, but used a burn compress and surgical tape to create something soft between the mirror casing and the door.

I was slightly horrified at 2nd hand prices thinking that one may turn up also partly corroded. And for another 50 quid I could get a new one from ebay. Still 175 quid for a wingmirror and the base would need painting. So I thought I'd fix it.

It's basically the steel collet that has corroded. This holds the spring that allows the mirror to be rigid but flick back or forth when enough force is applied. They are machine assembled so cannot be replaced AFAIK.

I bought 1 stainless steel M12 x 70mm Allan bolt 2 SS washers and a SS Nylock nut.

If you have the facility you could drill out the centre of the bolt to allow the wires along the same path as the collet allowed. For me my engineering friend is 100 miles away and the Mrs was moaning about struggling to parallel park and joining a carriage way a nightmare. So I had to improvise. I drilled out the remains of the rusted collet with a 12mm bit. I think the alloy casing is 14mm but the chandlery chap said 14mm is an odd metric size.

As you can see from the photos I can hopefully add in a minute, the fix fits in all the casings, allows the base rubber to be reseated without hindrance. The only thing I did was to drill and elongate 2 holes into each other to allow a new path for the wires. The metal is quite thick here 4-5mm so will not be structurally weakened by the hole. I chose the position by assuming the position of the mirror if knocked out of position and so that the flange does not slice the wires. The outside of the mirror would have to touch the window. Possible but unlikely. You can adjust the tightness obviously to eliminate vibration and take out any slack.

So a fix for any other head in hands people who didn't realise how much a secondhand or new one is. I believe they are 260 quid from BMW, again only supplied primed.

If you dont feel confident to attempt this fix then pm me and I'll do it for £25 per mirror plus postage. I'm also going to machining the centres out of the bolts for the wires so not to drill the base. I may sell these as sets. If anyone has any wing mirror parts hanging around then I will pay for them to be delivered if you dont want them.

Best Steve




 
Last edited:

board

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Global Moderator
British Zeds
M Power
Joined
Dec 2, 2011
Points
103
Location
Lincolnshire
Model of Z
M Roadster
Big warm welcome steve and thank you so much for the excellent write up. any chance of some pics of your zed :)
 

GazHyde

Administrator
Administrator
Global Moderator
M Power
Joined
Dec 2, 2011
Points
226
Location
Berkshire
Model of Z
Z4 MR
Woodsta888 said:
As a lurker on here I felt obliged to post a fix as this forum and its content has helped me considerably in buying (She paid me back ((Just this month)) and maintaining my other halfs Z3.
Cheers Steve, your contribution is most appreciated, and I'm pleased the site has been useful for you!

Welcome to the forum, and let us know how your wing mirror refurbs business works out :D

Gary
 

Snoops

Zorg Addict
Joined
Dec 10, 2011
Points
51
Location
Red Rose Country
Model of Z
2.8
Hi Steve

First of all
to Zorg.

Like Gaz said, post some piccies up in the "Introduce yourself" section and everyone will come along and say Hi.

The write up is lovelly and clear with great pictures, great satisfaction when you complete a job yourself :-bd
 

Boysie

Zorg Guru (I)
Supporter
British Zeds
M Power
Joined
Dec 6, 2011
Points
94
Location
West Chiltington, West Sussex
Model of Z
M Roadster S50
Welcome Steve to the Forum
A brilliant fix well done :ymapplause:
 

aspron

Zorg Addict
Joined
Dec 6, 2011
Points
50
Location
Cockermouth
Model of Z
2.8
Excellent repair guide Steve.

I could certainly use one of your replacement parts. I have tried to PM you but for some reason it just sits in my outbox so I assume it has not arrived.

I will be interne-less for a couple of weeks now but will try and contact you again when I am back on line.

Thanks,

Steve.
 

Aceman

Moderator
British Zeds
3rd Party Trader
Joined
Dec 5, 2011
Points
156
Location
Wakefield
Model of Z
///M Roadster
Your PM will still be in your outbox because Woodsta888 has not opened it to read yet and once it has been opened it will move into your sentbox.
 

Freds Dad

Zorg Addict
Joined
Dec 5, 2011
Points
49
Location
Macclesfield
Model of Z
2.8
Great write up and this could be the answer to my prayers as I thought I may be at Silverstone with either different colour mirrors or only a drivers mirror.

I'm going to see an engineering friend after work and hopefully he can make me the drilled bolt that is required. I'll let you know tomorrow how it goes.
 

Garethdeb

Newbie
Joined
Jul 7, 2012
Points
4
Great write up. Unfortunately mine were corroded too bad to salvage, the bases actually disintegrated so I had to replace both, ouch!
Regards
Gareth
 

bonbon

Zorg Legend
Joined
Mar 13, 2012
Points
75
Location
Israel
Model of Z
19L Auto
I hope you resprayed the base (bubbling paint on the oxidized Aluminium) before putting it back. O:)
 

Woodsta888

Zorg Legend
British Zeds
Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Points
74
Location
Exmouth, Devon
Model of Z
2.0
Apologies for lack of replies. Been busy moving house and starting new job. (Moved 600m and still in same team at work).

In reverse order.

Bonbon,
No iI didn't respray, it's 10 mins to take off a mirror max so can be done any time, too many selfish people in carparks keep making a mess of our Z3 and may spend a couple of hundred on a professional paint touch up and dint removal when I afford my own driveway.

Garethdeb,

The fix is a fix for complete diintegration of the metal collett inside. Mine completely disintegrated. Apologies that I didn't take pics of the mirror before repair. The base and the main section of mirror are both aluminium so bar oxidising and losing external paint shouldn't disintegrate. If you need some help or advice then please contact me again.

Aspron,

Apologies for not logging in sooner. I've currently had no contact from people with spare mirror parts so have nothing to offer bar the right size bolts, nuts and washers of which are readily available in a nut bolt shop near yourself. If you need help please pm me again.


Again a request to you guys with broken mirrors, if you have ANY spare bits metal or plastic then I'll pay for them to be shipped to myself. Don't chuck em!!

Post some pics soonest when I can remeber what photo thing I used.

Best

Steve
 

gedo

Newbie
Joined
Aug 2, 2012
Points
4
Steve, I took inspiration from this thread to fix my own mirror so thank you very much !

Tackled it slightly differently due to the amount of damage (fused base and broken into 4 pieces) but the end result was the same - repaired mirror at a cost of £4.99 for some epoxy !
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Rosie62

Newbie
Joined
Feb 17, 2014
Points
1
As a lurker on here I felt obliged to post a fix as this forum and its content has helped me considerably in buying (She paid me back ((Just this month)) and maintaining my other halfs Z3.

Was on the way back from my folks and whilst on the long 270 degree sliproad to join the dual-carriage way, I noticed the light change to my right in my peripheral view. The wing mirror had dropped slightly and was wobbling. Stopping on the sliproad I thought I could pop it back in, thinking I'd knocked it when filling up with petrol minutes before. But as I pulled it back up a load of rust fell out of the bottom and the thing was loose in my hand. Only the wires for the mirror adjustmnt and demister holding it on. Had no tools so had to leave it dangling. Paintwork! I thought. Tied a t shirt from my bag around it but that lasted to 50mph or 200m. I thought the first aid kit was just for humans, but used a burn compress and surgical tape to create something soft between the mirror casing and the door.

I was slightly horrified at 2nd hand prices thinking that one may turn up also partly corroded. And for another 50 quid I could get a new one from ebay. Still 175 quid for a wingmirror and the base would need painting. So I thought I'd fix it.

It's basically the steel collet that has corroded. This holds the spring that allows the mirror to be rigid but flick back or forth when enough force is applied. They are machine assembled so cannot be replaced AFAIK.

I bought 1 stainless steel M12 x 70mm Allan bolt 2 SS washers and a SS Nylock nut. (Dunno where pound sign is) 8-| #1.83 at my local Chandlery.

If you have the facility you could drill out the centre of the bolt to allow the wires along the same path as the collet allowed. For me my engineering friend is 100 miles away and the Mrs was moaning about struggling to parallel park and joining a carriage way a nightmare. So I had to improvise. I drilled out the remains of the rusted collet with a 12mm bit. I think the alloy casing is 14mm but the chandlery chap said 14mm is an odd metric size.

As you can see from the photos I can hopefully add in a minute, the fix fits in all the casings, allows the base rubber to be reseated without hindrance. The only thing I did was to drill and elongate 2 holes into each other to allow a new path for the wires. The metal is quite thick here 4-5mm so will not be structurally weakened by the hole. I chose the position by assuming the position of the mirror if knocked out of position and so that the flange does not slice the wires. The outside of the mirror would have to touch the window. Possible but unlikely. You can adjust the tightness obviously to eliminate vibration and take out any slack.

So a fix for any other head in hands people who didn't realise how much a secondhand or new one is. I believe they are 260 quid from BMW, again only supplied primed.

If you dont feel confident to attempt this fix then pm me and I'll do it for 20 per mirror plus postage. I'm also going to machining the centres out of the bolts for the wires so not to drill the base. I may sell these as sets. If anyone has any wing mirror parts hanging around then I will pay for them to be delivered if you dont want them.

Best Steve




Hi Woodstock.
Your thread is extremely useful. But could you tell as I'm not sure, should the base of the mirror arm turn. If so should you drill the remainder out to release the arm. Thanks in advance. Rosie62
 

t-tony

Zorg Expert (II)
Supporter
British Zeds
#ZedShed
Joined
Dec 31, 2013
Points
226
Location
Torksey Lock,Lincoln, England
Model of Z
E89 Z4 23i Auto
This is a good repair , I had to do a similar type of repair on my Eunos mirrors a few years ago before I grew up.
 

Ash

Newbie
Joined
Sep 21, 2014
Points
3
As a lurker on here I felt obliged to post a fix as this forum and its content has helped me considerably in buying (She paid me back ((Just this month)) and maintaining my other halfs Z3.

Was on the way back from my folks and whilst on the long 270 degree sliproad to join the dual-carriage way, I noticed the light change to my right in my peripheral view. The wing mirror had dropped slightly and was wobbling. Stopping on the sliproad I thought I could pop it back in, thinking I'd knocked it when filling up with petrol minutes before. But as I pulled it back up a load of rust fell out of the bottom and the thing was loose in my hand. Only the wires for the mirror adjustmnt and demister holding it on. Had no tools so had to leave it dangling. Paintwork! I thought. Tied a t shirt from my bag around it but that lasted to 50mph or 200m. I thought the first aid kit was just for humans, but used a burn compress and surgical tape to create something soft between the mirror casing and the door.

I was slightly horrified at 2nd hand prices thinking that one may turn up also partly corroded. And for another 50 quid I could get a new one from ebay. Still 175 quid for a wingmirror and the base would need painting. So I thought I'd fix it.

It's basically the steel collet that has corroded. This holds the spring that allows the mirror to be rigid but flick back or forth when enough force is applied. They are machine assembled so cannot be replaced AFAIK.

I bought 1 stainless steel M12 x 70mm Allan bolt 2 SS washers and a SS Nylock nut. (Dunno where pound sign is) 8-| #1.83 at my local Chandlery.

If you have the facility you could drill out the centre of the bolt to allow the wires along the same path as the collet allowed. For me my engineering friend is 100 miles away and the Mrs was moaning about struggling to parallel park and joining a carriage way a nightmare. So I had to improvise. I drilled out the remains of the rusted collet with a 12mm bit. I think the alloy casing is 14mm but the chandlery chap said 14mm is an odd metric size.

As you can see from the photos I can hopefully add in a minute, the fix fits in all the casings, allows the base rubber to be reseated without hindrance. The only thing I did was to drill and elongate 2 holes into each other to allow a new path for the wires. The metal is quite thick here 4-5mm so will not be structurally weakened by the hole. I chose the position by assuming the position of the mirror if knocked out of position and so that the flange does not slice the wires. The outside of the mirror would have to touch the window. Possible but unlikely. You can adjust the tightness obviously to eliminate vibration and take out any slack.

So a fix for any other head in hands people who didn't realise how much a secondhand or new one is. I believe they are 260 quid from BMW, again only supplied primed.

If you dont feel confident to attempt this fix then pm me and I'll do it for 20 per mirror plus postage. I'm also going to machining the centres out of the bolts for the wires so not to drill the base. I may sell these as sets. If anyone has any wing mirror parts hanging around then I will pay for them to be delivered if you dont want them.

Best Steve




Hi Steve,
Most interested in your z3 wing mirror fix, might like to take you up on your repair offer as have just experienced exactly the same problem.
Didn't quite understand the procedure though, would be interested to know how it would work, maybe you could let me know, I assume I would need to send you my corroded wing mirror?
Regards Ash
 
Last edited by a moderator:

FRANKIE

Zorg Guru (V)
American Zeds
The M44 Massive
Joined
Sep 2, 2013
Points
193
Location
Egg Harbor Township, New Jersey, USA
Model of Z
Z3
Hi Steve,
Most interested in your z3 wing mirror fix, might like to take you up on your repair offer as have just experienced exactly the same problem.
Didn't quite understand the procedure though, would be interested to know how it would work, maybe you could let me know, I assume I would need to send you my corroded wing mirror?
Regards Ash
Hi, Ash and welcome to the forum, Frankie
 
Top