Clutch Trouble

[t-tony]

Before you do any of that Faheem, make sure that the rubber hose off the side of the brake fluid reservoir which feeds fluid to the master cylinder is connected, not trapped or linked and is not blocked internally. If the clutch m/c isn't getting a supply of fluid it can't work. Good luck mate.

Tony.

 

[Faheem]

Thanks Tony. I'll give this a go tomorrow and report back. Just gutted that it happened on mot day.

 

[colb]

Good call t-tony regarding the pipe from the reservoir to the clutch master cylinder if its off it would just suck air.
If its connected and not blocked or kinked then its going to be the seals inside the clutch master cylinder.

These seals can go gradually or fail in one go not to mention rust inside the cylinder bore which would damage the seals and produce a failure. They always go when your least expecting it, sounds like it chose MOT day to do it this time.

 

[Faheem]

Is there a quick way of checking the hose going from the brake fluid resovoir to the master cylinder without removing the master cylinder. This is because the cylinder is a pain in the arse to remove because of its location.

 

[colb]

Since you have the slave cylinder out you could try blowing through the feed pipe leading up to the reservoir with some compressed air if you have access to a compressor, bear in mind it will blow brake fluid everywhere at the reservoir end unless you keep it covered with some rag or suck it out before blowing the line. If you resort to emptying the reservoir bear in mind you will probably have to bleed the brakes when you fix the clutch problem. If you don't touch the brakes you may get away with just topping up the fluid. Since the feed to the slave is gravity fed it could be that there is a blockage in the reservoir itself or the pipe as you have nothing flowing. Likely cause would be the fluid having turned into jelly due to age and water in it, had this on a BMW bike I had, the jelly blocked the feed to the caliper and blocked the reservoir return hole stopping any flow.
Is there room to get the clutch feed pipe off the reservoir without taking the brake master cylinder out. The reservoir itself is just a push fit into the brake master cylinder might be possible to pull it off with the clutch feed pipe still attached so you can check it out off the car.

 

[t-tony]

You can empty the fluid resevoir without affecting the brakes at all. If you have a bike tyre pump you could use that to blow through the feed pipe to the clutch m/cyl.

Tony.

 

[FRANKIE]

Is there a quick way of checking the hose going from the brake fluid resovoir to the master cylinder without removing the master cylinder. This is because the cylinder is a pain in the arse to remove because of its location.

Just went through all of this. I have a 1996 Z3. Same EXACT thing happened to me. First, I don't know if our cars have the exact same set up as some things might have changed over the years. As you know, I'm left hand drive so as I look under the bonnet, my brake fluid res. is in the upper left hand of the engine compartment. The res.has a small tube extending from the top right hand corner with a hose attached to it. You will notice that the tube that comes out of the brake res. is near the top of the res. This is because if anything happens to the clutch hyd.system, it won't drain out all your fluid and leave you with no brakes. This being said, your fluid lever in the master break res. must be near the top for the fluid to drain into the master cyl. hose. If the fluid is properly topped off, when one merely loosens the fluid line on the slave cyl. the hydraulic brake fluid will immediately start to drip freely due to gravity feed. I have taken videos of the replacement of the slave cyl. and the clutch master cyl. I took the advice of a 30+ year BMW mechanic on how to bleed the system and you can see it in the video. Watch the video. If you would like to talk to me, you can Skype me tomorrow, just let me know with a PM what time as we are 5 hours different. Here's the bad news. On MY CAR, the replacement of both the slave cyl. and PARTICULARLY the master clutch cylinder was the most difficult thing I've ever done because of its location, working outside on my driveway, making the mistake of not taking out the driver's seat and being 65 years old. Watching the video of a professional mechanic do the job, at the end of it he says: "I NEVER WANT TO DO THAT AGAIN". I think we should talk. It might not be that bad. The call on Skype is free. Look at the vid first!!!! ....................................Frankie

View: https://youtu.be/sYyYrAYbp2k

 

[Faheem]

Hi Frankie, thanks for this. Both my cars are 97s so the setup looks very similar other than the brake fluid reservoir being on the opposite side of the car.

The slave cylinder is easy or access as is the hose that attaches onto it, however the master cylinder is a PITA as it requires the removal of the pedal assembly. I can get the clips out without any issue but it's more a case of remembering where everything goes upon reassembly that worries me.

As you've said removing the seat is a good idea and I'm going to do that today.

I'll let you know how I get on with this and PM you later if I'm still struggling.

 

[Faheem]

@t-tony you hit the nail on the head mate. Hose going to the master cylinder was clogged, luckily the blockage was at the top of the hose rather than the end of it as that would have required the removal of the master cylinder.

After getting rid of the blockage and topping up with fluid I was able to get fluid coming out of the clutch hose. As I had removed the slave cylinder I had to bleed it, this was an absolute pain in the backside. Got all of the bubbles out of it with it detached, then fit the clutch hose and reinstalled the slave in the bell housing.

I bought a cheap one man bleeder kit from halfords and bled the clutch from the nipple once the slave was attached.

I wasn't sure if the the brakes would need bleeding but I was so excited to use my one man bleeder kit again that I bled brakes again anyway.

As @FRANKIE had suggested taking the seat out made accessing the master cylinder a lot easier. I also removed the steering wheel and all the lower trim from within the car. This is the only way i was able to slide the pins back on to the pedal assembly and get the clips back on.

I spent most of today doing all of that and is by no means a quick job. The good thing is that the pressure is back on the clutch pedal and it engages/disengages correctly again.

I did face an issue with the brake light being permanently on after getting everything back in, and Frankies video helped with this. There is a switch near the brake pedal which will cause the brake light to turn on when there is no pressure on the switch. Essentially the switch was knocked out of alignment and a quick pry with a flat blade screw driver quickly fixed this.

Many Thanks to everyone that helped.

 

[t-tony]

@t-tony you hit the nail on the head mate. Hose going to the master cylinder was clogged, luckily the blockage was at the top of the hose rather than the end of it as that would have required the removal of the master cylinder.

After getting rid of the blockage and topping up with fluid I was able to get fluid coming out of the clutch hose. As I had removed the slave cylinder I had to bleed it, this was an absolute pain in the backside. Got all of the bubbles out of it with it detached, then fit the clutch hose and reinstalled the slave in the bell housing.

I bought a cheap one man bleeder kit from halfords and bled the clutch from the nipple once the slave was attached.

I wasn't sure if the the brakes would need bleeding but I was so excited to use my one man bleeder kit again that I bled brakes again anyway.

As @FRANKIE had suggested taking the seat out made accessing the master cylinder a lot easier. I also removed the steering wheel and all the lower trim from within the car. This is the only way i was able to slide the pins back on to the pedal assembly and get the clips back on.

I spent most of today doing all of that and is by no means a quick job. The good thing is that the pressure is back on the clutch pedal and it engages/disengages correctly again.

I did face an issue with the brake light being permanently on after getting everything back in, and Frankies video helped with this. There is a switch near the brake pedal which will cause the brake light to turn on when there is no pressure on the switch. Essentially the switch was knocked out of alignment and a quick pry with a flat blade screw driver quickly fixed this.

Many Thanks to everyone that helped.

Good news mate, get that test re-booked Glad to have been of help mate.

Tony.

 

[Antm72]

Well done mate a job well done ....result

 

[colb]

Good job, what was the blockage you found in the pipe, lets hope a change of fluid means it won't reoccur.

 

[DavidM]

Top work that required a lot of stamina - great job!!!

 

[FRANKIE]

@t-tony you hit the nail on the head mate. Hose going to the master cylinder was clogged, luckily the blockage was at the top of the hose rather than the end of it as that would have required the removal of the master cylinder.

After getting rid of the blockage and topping up with fluid I was able to get fluid coming out of the clutch hose. As I had removed the slave cylinder I had to bleed it, this was an absolute pain in the backside. Got all of the bubbles out of it with it detached, then fit the clutch hose and reinstalled the slave in the bell housing.

I bought a cheap one man bleeder kit from halfords and bled the clutch from the nipple once the slave was attached.

I wasn't sure if the the brakes would need bleeding but I was so excited to use my one man bleeder kit again that I bled brakes again anyway.

As @FRANKIE had suggested taking the seat out made accessing the master cylinder a lot easier. I also removed the steering wheel and all the lower trim from within the car. This is the only way i was able to slide the pins back on to the pedal assembly and get the clips back on.

I spent most of today doing all of that and is by no means a quick job. The good thing is that the pressure is back on the clutch pedal and it engages/disengages correctly again.

I did face an issue with the brake light being permanently on after getting everything back in, and Frankies video helped with this. There is a switch near the brake pedal which will cause the brake light to turn on when there is no pressure on the switch. Essentially the switch was knocked out of alignment and a quick pry with a flat blade screw driver quickly fixed this.

Many Thanks to everyone that helped.

What a relief to hear that you're back in action. Glad everything is sorted out............................Frankie

 

[oldcarman]

Way to hang in there @Faheem!! And thanks all that helped him out. JIM

 

[oldcarman]

Way to hang in there @Faheem!! And thanks all that helped him out. JIM

 

[hard top]

You are that happy for him Jimbo, you had to say it twice......

 

[t-tony]

Was going to say, " Got it the first time mate!" Gives the sweeper up summat to do at the last knockings @hard top

Tony.

 

[hard top]

Gives the sweeper up summat to do at the last knockings

Sod that mate, going to leave it as it stands and finish my beer and go to bed.....

 

[t-tony]

Been out for a chinky take away Mike, just started on some tins of Yuengling beer.

Tony.