2000 Z3, what alarm type do I have?

[Kiwipom]

Not sure what's meant to live there. Or for that matter where the alarm electronics are or even if there is a separate module.

But the video cassette size module at the top with multiple connectors is the ZKE body control module.

Thanks, that’s one “black box” identified. I’m wondering where to look next for the alarm module! Maybe under the gearbox console......that looks a pain to remove, for the moment I’d rather just work out out how to stop the alarm immobilising the car, I’ve not found a wiring diagram covering the 2000 model yet tho.

 

[mrscalex]

I'll PM you 2000 diagrams for US and Eur. But usual warning about Japanese market car

 

[jakechan]

I'll PM you 2000 diagrams for US and Eur. But usual warning about Japanese market car

Japanese cars are Euro spec, or at least mine is. Some weird stuff though, automatics are RHD manuals are LHD, as are all bread vans, sorry coupes. So whether the Euro spec applies to all I don't know

 

[Kiwipom]

Japanese cars are Euro spec, or at least mine is. Some weird stuff though, automatics are RHD manuals are LHD, as are all bread vans, sorry coupes. So whether the Euro spec applies to all I don't know

Yep, my vin decode says euro Japanese!

I’m now wondering if my car has a “dwa” built in to the zke module. 2001 models have that, and according to a bmw parts and assessor install doc the “alarm kit” for a 2001 does not include an alarm module, only a siren and sensors.

Edit: and what MAY be significant ref my ongoing puzzlement on the alarm type fitted is that it has s305a (remote control AND s875a (infra red) so may not even need an alarm module?

VIN WBACH32050LC67878
Type Code CH32
E Series E36 (7)
Series 3
Type ROADST
Model Z3 2.8 (EUR)
Steering RL
Doors 2
Engine M52/TU
Displacement 2.80
Power 142
Drive HECK
Transmission AUT
Colour TOPASBLAU METALLIC (364)
Upholstery LEDER OREGON/TOPASBLAU (Q4PB)
Prod. Date 2000-01-07

L807A National version Japan
S205A Automatic transmission
S209A Differential lock 25%
S243A Airbag for front passenger
S260A Side airbag for driver/passenger
S299A BMW LA wheels with mixed tyres
S305A Remote control for central locking
S314A Door mirror, driver lock, heated
S345A Chrome Line Interieur
S354A Windscreen, green-tinted upper strip
S388A Softtop, black
S395A Rollover protection system
S398A Softtop, electromech. semiautom.
S423A Floor mats velours
S428A Warning triangle and first aid kit
S435A Fine wood trim
S441A Smoker package
S481A Sports seat
S494A Seat heating driver/passenger
S502A Headlight cleaning system
S520A Fog lights
S530A Air conditioning
S548A Kilometre speedo
S550A On-board computer
S669A Radio BMW Business RDS
S692A Preparation, BMW 6-CD changer I-bus
S704A M Sports suspension
S710A M Sports steering wheel, multifunction
S818A Battery master switch
S823A Hot-climate version
S845A Acoustic fasten seat belt reminder
S853A Language version, English
S875A Infrared remote control
S925A Dummy-SALAPA
S992A Control of number-plate attachment

 

[jakechan]

Yep, my vin decode says euro Japanese!

I’m now wondering if my car has a “dwa” built in to the zke module. 2001 models have that, and according to a bmw parts and assessor install doc the “alarm kit” for a 2001 does not include an alarm module, only a siren and sensors.

Edit: and what MAY be significant ref my ongoing puzzlement on the alarm type fitted is that it has s305a (remote control AND s875a (infra red) so may not even need an alarm module?

VIN WBACH32050LC67878
Type Code CH32
E Series E36 (7)
Series 3
Type ROADST
Model Z3 2.8 (EUR)
Steering RL
Doors 2
Engine M52/TU
Displacement 2.80
Power 142
Drive HECK
Transmission AUT
Colour TOPASBLAU METALLIC (364)
Upholstery LEDER OREGON/TOPASBLAU (Q4PB)
Prod. Date 2000-01-07

L807A National version Japan
S205A Automatic transmission
S209A Differential lock 25%
S243A Airbag for front passenger
S260A Side airbag for driver/passenger
S299A BMW LA wheels with mixed tyres
S305A Remote control for central locking
S314A Door mirror, driver lock, heated
S345A Chrome Line Interieur
S354A Windscreen, green-tinted upper strip
S388A Softtop, black
S395A Rollover protection system
S398A Softtop, electromech. semiautom.
S423A Floor mats velours
S428A Warning triangle and first aid kit
S435A Fine wood trim
S441A Smoker package
S481A Sports seat
S494A Seat heating driver/passenger
S502A Headlight cleaning system
S520A Fog lights
S530A Air conditioning
S548A Kilometre speedo
S550A On-board computer
S669A Radio BMW Business RDS
S692A Preparation, BMW 6-CD changer I-bus
S704A M Sports suspension
S710A M Sports steering wheel, multifunction
S818A Battery master switch
S823A Hot-climate version
S845A Acoustic fasten seat belt reminder
S853A Language version, English
S875A Infrared remote control
S925A Dummy-SALAPA
S992A Control of number-plate attachment

That's what I have, refers to the 2 button key and system itself I imagine. Definitely not an additional remote.

 

[Kiwipom]

That's what I have, refers to the 2 button key and system itself I imagine. Definitely not an additional remote.

Yep, I reckon that’s the extent of it, I did some experimenting today and driving mirror has an infrared sensor in it, and the key is definitely also infrared, so has not been messed with. If I covered either the keys (clear) bulb or the mirror with tin foil the keyless locking stopped working.

This means if I got hold of a used bmw key I could probably get it to work the keyless side.

It turns out that Bmw quoted $300 for an infrared key, and today they quoted $175 for a plain key with no buttons and I’m pretty sure I know everything I need to know in order to get a spare key with transponder sorted. Either get the kit to make code a transponder myself, and get a ket cut locally, or I buy a complete key from bmw.

I’m still facing the issue of the mystery alarm system that immobilises the car even without me asking it to, for which I have one radio based fob/remote, and no known means of getting a spare!

My concern if I mess with the alarm system is that if I do something that stops the remote/fob working (like losing it, or wiping the alarms memory of the fob) the car will be expensively immobilised......

 

[Kiwipom]

Some success today
1. I found a black module marked Nokia lying loose under the radio, so I worked out the sensor by the mirror was a mic, and the little speaker in the drivers footwell was for this. All these items and related wiring are now removed.

2. Having removed the Nokia stuff I noticed another module lying loose under the radio, and this turned out to be the alarm, the company (AVS) that fitted it is still in business and I can buy a new remote at a rather high $99, or better still I’ll work out how to remove it, or at least stop it immobilising the engine.

FRom the pic you can see the alarm wiring is a real messy job of black wir3s spliced into the bmw harness.

So, I think I now know enough to resolve the issues of not having spare keys/fobs. I think I will have a go at making my own key from a used infrared one, as I certainly won’t buy a new infrared one from bmw at $300.

I rather fancy still having the remote/keyless option on two keys for the car, rather than buy the non button key from bmw as a spare.

Some pics.....

 

[Kiwipom]

Alarm is out, in the end it was quite simple, the alarm immobilised the car by acting as a switch/relay in 2 of the thick wires in the ignition circuit. It did not make use of immobilisation function provided by the EWS or DME.

There were wires spliced into the bmw harness all over the car (door locks, interior light, boot, bonnet sensors etc etc) but I was able to remove them without taking too much of the interior apart. A short length of each the 2 main ignition switch wires by the steering column was cut out to insert the alarm in the circuit. Joints were just soldered then wrapped in insulation tape. Horrible to do that on what was quiet an expensive car back when it was done circa 2008

I had forgotten just how “cowboyish” the alarm fitting companies can be!

 

[mrscalex]

Well done! I would have had to remove it too.

Is the factory alarm there to reinstate?

 

[Kiwipom]

Well done! I would have had to remove it too.

Is the factory alarm there to reinstate?

There may be most of the important parts of a bmw alarm system in my car (less the siren) but I’m definitely confused as to how bmw would have gone about it, there are a few bmw alarm fitting docs around but the best fit for my car I’ve found so far is attached (my car has the 305 option, infrared type). My car MIGHT have the DWA module fitted but if it has, I’ve not found it yet.....the 2001 cars had a DWA module as std (I think) and have different bmw instructions (also attached).

I might want a working alarm at some point but for the next job I’m going to do is sort a spare key.....I also need to do some trips in the car rather than have my head stuck in a footwell

 

[Kiwipom]

Following on with my success in removing the aftermarket alarm without stuffing anything, I bought an AK90 key programmer and 10 key transponders (chips) and now have two spare transponders that will start the car.

I just need to get some keys (physically) cut locally, fit the transponders in the key cases, and then I’ll have 3 working keys and won’t be so paranoid at losing the one I have.

Fiddling with the EWS module to get at its key data is a bit daunting but having done it once I can see it’s relatively risk free. I had more trouble getting the AK90 software to work properly than anything else. The instructions the AK90 came with were not great but googling solved that problem.

So far I’ve spent 75nzd all up, but of course I still have the AK90 and 8 spare transponders (what’s the betting I get asked to lend it out eh!)

 

[mrscalex]

If you PM me I can give you the details of the guy who cuts my keys for about £15. Even if postage was £10 to NZ I think £25 is a good result. He can do it off a photo by reading the key code off the pattern. That gets fed into a computerised cutting machine. That’s a superior way to trace cutting round an existing key as it resets wear facets that would otherwise get carried over.

This is why you should never put a photo of your key on the internet!

As you’ve battled through the AK90 programming stage the rest is easy. So that’s final assembly. And syncing to the car.

You’ll need a PCB too but donor keys are easy to find on eBay for £5-£10 each.

 

[Kiwipom]

If you PM me I can give you the details of the guy who cuts my keys for about £15. Even if postage was £10 to NZ I think £25 is a good result. He can do it off a photo by reading the key code off the pattern. That gets fed into a computerised cutting machine. That’s a superior way to trace cutting round an existing key as it resets wear facets that would otherwise get carried over.

This is why you should never put a photo of your key on the internet!

As you’ve battled through the AK90 programming stage the rest is easy. So that’s final assembly. And syncing to the car.

You’ll need a PCB too but donor keys are easy to find on eBay for £5-£10 each.

Is the key code a number stamped on the key? If so my key does not have it unfortunately.

It’s not quite so easy for me to get a PCB as my car has infrared keyless entry, however this is something I will investigate as I’m concerned at what might happen if I lose the one infrared key I have eg does a new one HAVE to be programmed from it, new aftermarket infrared keys seem to be available on eBay (not that cheaply tho).

By the way, I saw your post on virginising a DME, I’ve not got any experience but can see it should be possible to sync the EWS and DME, I think I may have read somewhere INPA can do it, as they can become de synced, if for example the DME is disconnected and the ignition key used, the EWS and key will move “forward” a cycle, but of course the DME doesn’t so will no longer allow the engine to start (maybe!).

 

[mrscalex]

There's no code on the key. You need to send a clear photo of the key teeth. The code can be read off that as it relates directly to the depth of each of the 6 cuts.

Sync'ing the EWS & DME is easily achieved in INPA. But virginising the DME is a separate and more complex process that I am yet to explore fully. I do now have the cable to give it a go though.