2.8 E36 starts but won't run

[IanA]

Hi- I've been using my Z300S Barchetta bodied Z3 happily for the last 4 years. I had it painted in 2018 so no more gelcoat.
It's a 1999 roadster with E36 M52TU motor- dual VANOS.
I went out to start it the other day and it started strongly but then died. I've searched the forum but haven't found anything similar. The only code coming up after a start is P0443 which relates to the fuel vapour system. If it was a cam or crank sensor I'd expect to see a P0340 or similar. The car always starts strongly so I think the fuel system is OK. The shut-off feels like an ignition cut, always starts easily again.
Any suggestions please?

 

[NZ00Z3]

Not all cam sensor failures bring up codes.

Also check for vacuum leaks as bad ones will stop the engine from running when cold.
Usual suspects of:
- broken rubber boots between MAF and throttle body/idle control valve
- Broken CCV hoses either from valve cover to CCV or from CCV to dipstick
- damaged blanking caps on vacuum ports at back of manifold

 

[t-tony]

Check that the fuel pump is running after start up and not just "charging" the pressure in the rail.

Tony.

 

[IanA]

Thanks for your suggestions. Even though there was no code, it was a faulty cam sensor. For anyone interested in how I replaced it- the thread is here:

http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7001

 

[Grumps]

Mine 2.8 suddenly started stalling but would start fine. It turned out to be the rubber boot at the back of the maf. Very easy and cheap repair. £15 off eBay.

 

[t-tony]

Happy you got it sorted Ian, did sound as though that was the problem. My Z3 did similar.

Tony.

 

[IanA]

... the rubber boot at the back of the maf. Very easy and cheap repair. £15 off eBay.

I'd been alerted to that potential fault early on in my ownership so it was one of the first things I'd checked. Useful to know.

 

[IanA]

...did sound as though that was the problem. My Z3 did similar.

My main problem was lack of solid diagnostics. One respondent had their ECU reprogrammed first, then some new keys cut and then taken to a "specialist". That cost £800 to get the cam sensor diagnosed and replaced.

 

[Grumps]

My main problem was lack of solid diagnostics. One respondent had their ECU reprogrammed first, then some new keys cut and then taken to a "specialist". That cost £800 to get the cam sensor diagnosed and replaced.

Ouch! Got the cam and crank sensor done on mine and a general set up for £350 last year.

 

[IanA]

Having replaced the cam sensor and filled the engine with oil I started it up and went for a blast. It was a real blast as well- high revs through the gears and a full 70mph on the local dual-carriageway.

The next day it came to me that I hadn't reconnected the MAF sensor so I did that. Went away for a week. Came back and started the car today.

FFS- it started but would not run!!! I disconnected the MAF and it started and ran. Plugged in the MAF and the engine stopped.

Off to EuroCarParts again I think.

As a friend has just pointed out- I needed to replace the cam sensor in order to leave the MAF unplugged.

 

[t-tony]

They will run without the MAF connected just on default setting.

Tony.