I think that might have been where I got the idea from...
2.2 engine replacement project
- Thread starter mrscalex
- Start date
Ha,ha. Well mate they do say that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery
Did you just spray it on and wait mate or did you agitate it with a brush? Nice results.
Tony.
Did you just spray it on and wait mate or did you agitate it with a brush? Nice results.Tony.
Well I had big plans for the old engine. I really wanted to strip it and understand what caused it to seize and how it went together all in safe knowledge it was scrap anyway.
And I wanted to retrieve the cylinder head, inlet manifold and holed sump/pickup pipe (holed from a thrown component - wanted to know what). The sump/pickup pipe is unique to the Z3 despite what virtually every listing on ebay for an E36 sump says. If you can find a Z3 sump don't be surprised to pay north of £150.
However, I wasn't prepared to dismantle it on the ground (or in the air) too unstable and it's a nasty heavy lump. I bought an engine stand but the legs met the engine crane legs and I couldn't get it on. It had been peeing out oil and coolant dregs all over the drive every time I moved it. And I was concerned I'd get a complaint from the neighbours for having it sit around.
So I salvaged the flywheel, a few ancillaries and the wiring harnesses and it's off to the local tip tomorrow - checking first with them I was allowed to bring it in. I would have called a scrappie in but when I did that to remove the last breaker he caused so much damage to one thing or another around the car I didn't bother.
So my planned funding of the replacement engine from the salvageable parts is also in shreds. Never mind... will be glad to see it out of the way tomorrow and the engine crane returned (£19.60 for 2 days from a small tool hire company called Artisan who have a few bases in this part of the country).
I need to plan a schedule now for the rest of the work up to getting the replacement engine back in. Hopefully no more than 2-3 weeks work. Then I want to get it over to my Parent's to finish off as it's so unsuitable over here, it's not just the neighbours, I've just got no space. Hopefully under it's own steam but for £50 I can get it transported.
And I wanted to retrieve the cylinder head, inlet manifold and holed sump/pickup pipe (holed from a thrown component - wanted to know what). The sump/pickup pipe is unique to the Z3 despite what virtually every listing on ebay for an E36 sump says. If you can find a Z3 sump don't be surprised to pay north of £150.
However, I wasn't prepared to dismantle it on the ground (or in the air) too unstable and it's a nasty heavy lump. I bought an engine stand but the legs met the engine crane legs and I couldn't get it on. It had been peeing out oil and coolant dregs all over the drive every time I moved it. And I was concerned I'd get a complaint from the neighbours for having it sit around.
So I salvaged the flywheel, a few ancillaries and the wiring harnesses and it's off to the local tip tomorrow - checking first with them I was allowed to bring it in. I would have called a scrappie in but when I did that to remove the last breaker he caused so much damage to one thing or another around the car I didn't bother.
So my planned funding of the replacement engine from the salvageable parts is also in shreds. Never mind... will be glad to see it out of the way tomorrow and the engine crane returned (£19.60 for 2 days from a small tool hire company called Artisan who have a few bases in this part of the country).
I need to plan a schedule now for the rest of the work up to getting the replacement engine back in. Hopefully no more than 2-3 weeks work. Then I want to get it over to my Parent's to finish off as it's so unsuitable over here, it's not just the neighbours, I've just got no space. Hopefully under it's own steam but for £50 I can get it transported.
I sprayed it on. Left it for 10 minutes. Agitated it with a paint brush dipped in water so it not only agitated it but it started wiping off too. Then poured the bucket of water over everything.Ha,ha. Well mate they do say that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery
Tony.
The first time I did this I made the mistake of using a stiff washing up brush. Don't! The paint is too soft not being lacquered and it will scratch.
It didn't get all of the thick oil gunge off so I helped it along with some industrial hand wipes.
The Titan Silver 2.2 project was moved across to my Parent's house today. I just don't have the room here to carry on the job and I'd also made the decision to use the engine from my 2.2 Topaz Blue breaker which was already over there.
So here it is making the journey. I'm not quick with these things, I don't have enough spare time but I'll be disappointed if it's not moving under it's own steam within a couple of months. The transportation was a very reasonable £50 across town (about 7 miles) by A1 Transport. The guy is called Alex. Will forward his number if anyone needs it now or in the future.
So here it is making the journey. I'm not quick with these things, I don't have enough spare time but I'll be disappointed if it's not moving under it's own steam within a couple of months. The transportation was a very reasonable £50 across town (about 7 miles) by A1 Transport. The guy is called Alex. Will forward his number if anyone needs it now or in the future.
Way to go, many would shy away from this type of job and simply break the car taking yet another z3 out of the equation. Plus the knowledge you gain is being passed onto your son for him to draw upon as he grows up! Nicely done. JIM
Thank you. You just have to break it down into a series of smaller jobs that you learn as you go. The main barrier is time but I've spread it out over various sessions and several weeks. Anyway, I still have to get the engine across and working in the recipient car.
Next steps are:
- Remove the steering and suspension from the donor car
- Remove the subframe, steering and suspension on the recipient car
- Tidy up the engine bay on the recipient car
- Clean up and paint the donor subframe, steering and suspension. It's all looking rusty and pretty past it what's on there
- Take the weight of the donor engine on the crane and remove the subframe
- Extract the engine and gearbox complete from the donor car. This will include the exhaust manifolds and half of the (cut through) system. The manifold to system bolts are seized and wasted so that approach gets round the problem. With everything out the way the whole lot should just pull forward
- Hoist the complete assembly into position on the recipient car. Again nothing whatsoever in the way - it just slides in level from the front
- Fit the subframe under the engine and drop the engine onto it.
- Reconnect gearbox. Bolt up gearbox and engine mounts. Replace propshaft
- Build up the suspension and steering
- Reconnect back half of exhaust system
- Plumb the engine back in.
Thanks Jim. I originally bought it to break but as soon as I saw it realised it was too good. I wouldn't be breaking the other car if it wasn't for the chassis damage I discovered after doing all that work. I can't break a saveable car. If it's got a damaged chassis from an accident or rust or it would just be plain silly financially then that's different.
The car is now relocated into the garage. That was interesting me and the 2 kids pushing it in with rusted up discs A 5 point turn on a slopey drive Actually it wasn't too bad with the engine out in the end.
So this was the state of play first thing yesterday morning.
I wanted the whole front end off so the subframe, steering rack, steering column and suspension needed to come out. This not only gave me the best access to respray the engine bay but it will get me unrestricted clearance to put the engine/gearbox back plus I really didn't like the state of some of what I saw.
Fortunately beyond the bulkhead the car is not so badly afflicted. I might not have bothered with the project otherwise.
Removal of the arch liners revealed just why Z3s rust at that point and why every owner should inspect and clean this area.
I am now routinely dremmelling the 10mm plastic nuts off the junction box/liner. There is usually enough rust on the thread to cause the plastic nut to stick and shear the flimsy thread projection off if turned with a wrench. All the other fixings on the arch liner are 8mm hex head self-tappers into plastic captive bolts. It's unusual to have a problem getting them out although the heads do need cleaning off to fit a socket snuggly on. If you don't do that you risk rounding them. I did that on one and dremmelled a slot in for a screwdriver.
Suspension out.
Steering rack off. Via a very stubborn bolt stuck in the subframe sleeve. Plus Gas and a lump hammer with some serious blows required did the job in the end.
And subframe out.
A few areas of rust on the front end of the floorpan to tackle but nothing serious.
A couple more bits and bobs to get out of the engine bay during the week and then we'll look at getting some paint on.
Assistant required to remove dodgy looking grime moustache
A 5 point turn on a slopey drive Actually it wasn't too bad with the engine out in the end.So this was the state of play first thing yesterday morning.
I wanted the whole front end off so the subframe, steering rack, steering column and suspension needed to come out. This not only gave me the best access to respray the engine bay but it will get me unrestricted clearance to put the engine/gearbox back plus I really didn't like the state of some of what I saw.
Fortunately beyond the bulkhead the car is not so badly afflicted. I might not have bothered with the project otherwise.
Removal of the arch liners revealed just why Z3s rust at that point and why every owner should inspect and clean this area.
I am now routinely dremmelling the 10mm plastic nuts off the junction box/liner. There is usually enough rust on the thread to cause the plastic nut to stick and shear the flimsy thread projection off if turned with a wrench. All the other fixings on the arch liner are 8mm hex head self-tappers into plastic captive bolts. It's unusual to have a problem getting them out although the heads do need cleaning off to fit a socket snuggly on. If you don't do that you risk rounding them. I did that on one and dremmelled a slot in for a screwdriver.
Suspension out.
Steering rack off. Via a very stubborn bolt stuck in the subframe sleeve. Plus Gas and a lump hammer with some serious blows required did the job in the end.
And subframe out.
A few areas of rust on the front end of the floorpan to tackle but nothing serious.
A couple more bits and bobs to get out of the engine bay during the week and then we'll look at getting some paint on.
Assistant required to remove dodgy looking grime moustache
I love this thread
Me too, I love to see how it's done !
Tony.
Tony.
Well the auto paint shop just called to say the engine bay paint is ready. They are adamant they've not only matched the colour but that the finish matches too. He's used gloss not primer though. He said he sprayed a strip on the front panel I took in for matching and it's difficult to detect any difference.
We shall see I'm up in Swansea now until Wed but will be picking it up then, possibly taking the day off to get the paint on too if the weather is nice
We shall see
I'm up in Swansea now until Wed but will be picking it up then, possibly taking the day off to get the paint on too if the weather is nice
And thanks for all the nice comments on the thread chaps. Big believer in trying to put something back when you take loads out
The project is coming along nicely, good to see it being stripped back and being given a thorough going over ...keep up the good work
Last night was spent getting to grips with what tools/materials I was going to use for the rust clean up and surface preparation.
I broke out all the loose rust with a scraper. Wasn't too impressed with anything the dremmel kit had to offer for anything other than spot removal so I went straight in with the strip and clean wheel in the angle grinder. Wow! Very efficient but you do eat through wheels very quickly so I'll be saving the 2 remaining discs for where I really need them.
I'm taking today off and will be 1) cleaning out the spots of rust with the dremmel 2) going back over the larger areas with the strip and clean wheel 3) doing the corners/edges/tricky to reach areas by hand 4) going over the whole area I'm painting with 180 grit then 320 5) treating with Jenolite.
Then it will be acid etched - I'm assuming only 1 coat needed. Filler primed. 2-3 coats of white primer. Sand with 600 grit. Then 2-3+ coats of the gloss paint mixed up to match.
Under arch/chassis will get a coating of Gravi-gard before top coat too. Not sure if that needs primer underneath but I'll certainly acid etch. And finish off with the gloss.
Long day ahead. Will be improvising a paint booth from cheap plastic decorating sheets and making good use of the 3M face mask as the acid etch is not nice stuff. De-grease and tack cloths to be used too so I get a nice finish.
And some trial spraying on an old wing as it's many years since I picked up a spray can. I'll then be doing the subframe which has to be done to get the engine back in as another sort of practice run.
A few pics. No area is fully prepared yet. As above it was about a bit of experimentation last night. As expected what looked like a little rust turned into quite a lot more. It's all been caught in time though.
I broke out all the loose rust with a scraper. Wasn't too impressed with anything the dremmel kit had to offer for anything other than spot removal so I went straight in with the strip and clean wheel in the angle grinder. Wow! Very efficient but you do eat through wheels very quickly so I'll be saving the 2 remaining discs for where I really need them.
I'm taking today off and will be 1) cleaning out the spots of rust with the dremmel 2) going back over the larger areas with the strip and clean wheel 3) doing the corners/edges/tricky to reach areas by hand 4) going over the whole area I'm painting with 180 grit then 320 5) treating with Jenolite.
Then it will be acid etched - I'm assuming only 1 coat needed. Filler primed. 2-3 coats of white primer. Sand with 600 grit. Then 2-3+ coats of the gloss paint mixed up to match.
Under arch/chassis will get a coating of Gravi-gard before top coat too. Not sure if that needs primer underneath but I'll certainly acid etch. And finish off with the gloss.
Long day ahead. Will be improvising a paint booth from cheap plastic decorating sheets and making good use of the 3M face mask as the acid etch is not nice stuff. De-grease and tack cloths to be used too so I get a nice finish.
And some trial spraying on an old wing as it's many years since I picked up a spray can. I'll then be doing the subframe which has to be done to get the engine back in as another sort of practice run.
A few pics. No area is fully prepared yet. As above it was about a bit of experimentation last night. As expected what looked like a little rust turned into quite a lot more. It's all been caught in time though.
Good luck today hope it all goes to plan
Over the moon with the paint match. Front panel has had a stripe sprayed near the middle but the difference is barely visible!
