I was looking for something in my tool box today and had to move this.
I sometimes mention the use of a Power Probe but I guess it's something a few of you will never have come across, so here's a bit of an introduction.
When I bought this (about 21-22 years ago from the local Snap-On dealer) they cost in the region of £65 or so, these days you can buy a similar item for les than £20. These can be a very useful bit of kit for testing such things as lights, wipers, fan motors etc. for if they work or if not whether they have power or earth (continuity).
You also use it for bench testing items for which you need a 12v supply (in my case and old battery).
You can "self test" the Probe by touching on the + terminal (red LED lights) and on the -- terminal (green LED lights).
The Probe itself can be "powered" by pressing the button and if you connect the earth fly lead clip you can make a circuit to test such as these items.
Here I'm testing a w/washer pump by attaching the fly lead to one terminal and then touch the Power Probe to the other terminal. The green LED shows there is continuity.
Then, when you press the switch to power up the probe the LED turns to red and the pump runs.
Thus proving the pump is "good". You can also test LED "bulbs" but bear in mind these are polarity sensitive, so if it doesn't light try reversing the connections before assuming it's "bad".
Here I used a piece of wire to enable easy contact to the body of the bulb. Then touching the Probe to the centre contact I see there is continuity. Then when I press the power switch the LED lights up.
There is a safety feature in this Probe which is a "cut out" in the event of short circuiting the Probe as in the next picture.
If you accidentally apply power to the earth side the cut out trips instantly. As below.
To reset you simply push the trip in and carry on. This applies to bench testing or testing on the car.
Please also note that this vice has soft plastic jaws not metal ones.
When testing on the car you either have to connect to the car's own battery or to the "jumping/charging" terminals under the bonnet. This is what I did to test the headlight washer pump on my car today after it stopped working.
As you can see the lead is plenty long enough to connect to the battery (if needed) and still reach the front of the car.
This is how I connected it up.
To test for power and then to "power up" the headlight washer pump. (which does still work).
This is a virtually the same item by Sealy Tools for a bargain price. You may even find one cheaper.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Tools-PP1-Automotive-Test-Probe-6-24v-Power-Electrical-Circuit-Tester/153088825333?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
Tony.
ps. Any questions please ask and I'll answer them if I can. Demos available on a Shed day.
I sometimes mention the use of a Power Probe but I guess it's something a few of you will never have come across, so here's a bit of an introduction.
When I bought this (about 21-22 years ago from the local Snap-On dealer) they cost in the region of £65 or so, these days you can buy a similar item for les than £20. These can be a very useful bit of kit for testing such things as lights, wipers, fan motors etc. for if they work or if not whether they have power or earth (continuity).
You also use it for bench testing items for which you need a 12v supply (in my case and old battery).
You can "self test" the Probe by touching on the + terminal (red LED lights) and on the -- terminal (green LED lights).
The Probe itself can be "powered" by pressing the button and if you connect the earth fly lead clip you can make a circuit to test such as these items.
Here I'm testing a w/washer pump by attaching the fly lead to one terminal and then touch the Power Probe to the other terminal. The green LED shows there is continuity.
Then, when you press the switch to power up the probe the LED turns to red and the pump runs.
Thus proving the pump is "good". You can also test LED "bulbs" but bear in mind these are polarity sensitive, so if it doesn't light try reversing the connections before assuming it's "bad".
Here I used a piece of wire to enable easy contact to the body of the bulb. Then touching the Probe to the centre contact I see there is continuity. Then when I press the power switch the LED lights up.
There is a safety feature in this Probe which is a "cut out" in the event of short circuiting the Probe as in the next picture.
If you accidentally apply power to the earth side the cut out trips instantly. As below.
To reset you simply push the trip in and carry on. This applies to bench testing or testing on the car.
Please also note that this vice has soft plastic jaws not metal ones.
When testing on the car you either have to connect to the car's own battery or to the "jumping/charging" terminals under the bonnet. This is what I did to test the headlight washer pump on my car today after it stopped working.
As you can see the lead is plenty long enough to connect to the battery (if needed) and still reach the front of the car.
This is how I connected it up.
To test for power and then to "power up" the headlight washer pump. (which does still work).
This is a virtually the same item by Sealy Tools for a bargain price. You may even find one cheaper.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Tools-PP1-Automotive-Test-Probe-6-24v-Power-Electrical-Circuit-Tester/153088825333?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
Tony.
ps. Any questions please ask and I'll answer them if I can. Demos available on a Shed day.
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