How To Guide Z4 roof motor relocation to boot

Newbie here who just want to thank the thread starter and all other contributors!

My motor was beyond repair so I ordered a non-OEM from Amazon (150 EUR) which was fitted yesterday and holy cow, it works.

My first ever car DIY on our new family member, black Z4 3.0 2003.

Biggest challenge, besides learning a new English vocabulary for bolts, tools etc., was to separate the housing. Was just about to turn into Hulk-mode when I got the idea to dismount a tounge-and-groove plie where one piece created the perfect angle to pry it apart while supported by the wall of the motor housing space.

BMW work-shop quoted around 1200 EUR to do it with unknown lead time as there were 600 outstanding orders for a new OEM motor.

Again, thank you all!
 
Last edited:
I havent ran into this well known problem yet but I know when I do , and Im sure I will , Ill be looking at this topic . Thanks for the writeup and pics , they are sure to help .
 
Any of you guys ever think about drilling the drain hole out to like an inch and adding a larger drain tube? I relocated my pump but still have issues with water collecting in the tubs.
 
The drain tubes should be big enough, have you taken the rubber one way valve caps off the sill end, thats the best thing you can do to allow free flow. Still need to rod them to ensure they keep clear once or twice a year.
 
I have removed the caps. I will try the rod to see if I can free them up. I honestly think if they were bigger they wouldn’t get clogged at all. Design flaw.
 
Hello all....today i started the grand job of relocating the seized roof motor. On my 2005 Z4.ive come stuck with fitting the pump to the motor...when i finally got the top part off these parts fell out...i worked out the spring coil, the 2 pins but i dont have a 3rd pin and where do the 2 curved metal pieces go...?

The motor works but it is not engaging the roof mechanism as just its not connecting to the rod in the pump ?

Any ideas will be gratefully accepted thanks in advance. Mark
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20210812_154952488.webp
    PXL_20210812_154952488.webp
    100.6 KB · Views: 573
Usually the whole bucket pulls out in one piece, then you split it when it's out.

Tony.
 
Usually the whole bucket pulls out in one piece, then you split it when it's out.

Tony.
I had to split the case to get the motor out as instructed. The lower section is held in somewhere, I was wondering if there is a bolt or screw? Maybe just a trick that I can't figure out?
 
As far as I'm aware it's held by cable ties. I had a day at my place a few years ago when a guy relocated some 10 or so motors in my garage and I don't recall any that didn't come out in 1 piece.

Tony.
 
Thanks for the help! It seems my top has lost its virginity long ago! Why only use 1 tie when you can get 3 on there! Especially where they can't be reached.
I unbolted the top at the pistons to get a look and was able to get the cup out! I have to thank the previous mechanic for all the sleep loss! lol
 
Thanks for the help! It seems my top has lost its virginity long ago! Why only use 1 tie when you can get 3 on there! Especially where they can't be reached.
I unbolted the top at the pistons to get a look and was able to get the cup out! I have to thank the previous mechanic for all the sleep loss! lol

Please excuse my ignorance but can you clarify when you say "I unbolted the top at the pistons to get a look and was able to get the cup out".
I am attempting to relocate and obtaining access through the boot. I was wondering just how feasible it is to remove the bucket housing in one piece although Tony's comment suggests it's not a problem. I can see two of the cable ties holding the housing and was going to cut these in the hope the whole housing might be released. Perhaps I've missed a part in this topic and getting access to the motor is not through the boot but complete or partial removal of roof???
 
You definitely don’t HAVE to remove any part of the roof. Cut the cable ties that you can see, then the bucket should be free.

Tony.
 
thanks Tony for that advice. Wasn't sure what mrlakeview could have unbolted at the pistons!!!!
 
I think he was referring to after he got the pump out, I could be wrong.

Tony.
 
yeah that probably makes sense. Need to think outside the box sometimes!!!
 
Mine had extra ties. I removed the oval covers at the door opening on the roof, took out the 2 bolts on each side, eased the roof back and had plenty of room to break the lower housing loose. Hope this helps!
 
Thank you so much for this guide. My Z4 has been stood for 8 months.

It was in a dry garage and when I tried to start it the battery was dead… completely dead.

I replaced the battery and it started fine. Bit of TLC, oil change, new fuel and its running great again.

Except the bloody roof won’t go down. I get a red flashing light, it unlatches but doesn’t move so I’m thinking the motor is dead!

I’ve started this process and have to stop due to time and am chucking it through an mot tomorrow.

I’ve got everything open and just have to get the motor out. I’m confused as to why it’s died as it’s been dry!!! But the motor is the only thing I think it can be.

Does anyone have any advice where I can get a cheap replacement if it’s knackered?

Not looking forward to trying to drag it out.

Thanks all, I know it’s an old thread but it’s a golden one!
 
Does anyone have any advice where I can get a cheap replacement if it’s knackered?
Ebay usually has a large selection, as for cheap after a quick check £100 upwards at the moment.
 
Back
Top