Z3 will not start

[Jasn]

Perhaps the saddest of all thread titles...

Our Z3 (2000, 2.0, auto) has been running OK and we were just waiting to find time to replace the rear shocks. However, the battery went flat after not driving her for about a month. I recharged the battery (appears to be holding about 12.4 V) but the car won't start. The dashboard lights look normal, it sounds like it wants to start but it won't. A few times it did start but immediately stopped again. Now it won't start at all. I can hear what I assume is the fuel pump and I can smell fuel (I suspect perhaps the repeated tries to start it may have flooded the engine, but I don't know).

Any ideas where to start trying to figure this out? Feeling a bit sad after having made some progress with fixing things over the past several months.

Edit to add: It had been hesitating a bit (almost stalling) when shifting into reverse over the month or two before this issue.

Thanks
Jasn

 

[Nodzed]

Hi I recently had this on my M. Battery shows charged and holding 14v ish but wouldn't start the car, same issues as yours. I can only assume the voltage is OK but the amperage is down? Anyway I got a new battery and its fine now. Id say you may need a new battery.

 

[NZ00Z3]

Hi Jasn

Just to make sure I understand your problem. The Car will crank, but it will not fire/start. Is that correct?

Do you have any dash warning lights up? CEL, EML, ABS, traction control etc?

If the battery is at >12.4V and car will not crank, you may hear a "Clicking" from the engine bay, then check all electrical connections at the battery and the jump start post under the bonnet/hood. If they are all good, then get the battery load tested or just get a new battery.

 

[Zag2]

New battery is needed first, its not just about the voltage...

 

[t-tony]

IF you think you have flooded the engine just push the acc. pedal to the floor and hold it there where cranking. Have you any history on the age of the battery?

Tony.

 

[Jasn]

Hi Jasn

Just to make sure I understand your problem. The Car will crank, but it will not fire/start. Is that correct?

Do you have any dash warning lights up? CEL, EML, ABS, traction control etc?

If the battery is at >12.4V and car will not crank, you may hear a "Clicking" from the engine bay, then check all electrical connections at the battery and the jump start post under the bonnet/hood. If they are all good, then get the battery load tested or just get a new battery.

Yes, that's right, it will crank, but not start. No dash warning lights are showing.

Jasn

 

[Jasn]

IF you think you have flooded the engine just push the acc. pedal to the floor and hold it there where cranking. Have you any history on the age of the battery?

Tony.

OK. I suspect if the engine is flooded it's happened after the problem rather than being the cause, but I will give that a try. Battery is about two years old, but has been allowed discharge a few times over that time. I am thinking — once this is sorted — I might have to hunt for a current leak as it seems to go flat faster than I would expect.

Jasn

 

[t-tony]

Might be a silly question but you have got a fuel leak (corroded pipe possibly) which could explain smell of fuel and pump running. The pump should only run until it charges the fuel rail with pressure, if it doesn't reach pressure the pump will continue to run.

Tony.

 

[Jasn]

Might be a silly question but you have got a fuel leak (corroded pipe possibly) which could explain smell of fuel and pump running. The pump should only run until it charges the fuel rail with pressure, if it doesn't reach pressure the pump will continue to run.

Tony.

I am not 100% sure it is the fuel pump I can hear. The car's in an awkward spot to be trying to look underneath, but I will see what I can manage on the weekend. In the meantime, it seems I should take the battery to be tested. I will be pleased if it's just the battery.

Jasn

 

[t-tony]

You will need to charge the battery before taking for test. You can't test a flat battery. Keep us posted.

Tony.

 

[NZ00Z3]

OK, crank no start.

Easy thing to check. Have a look at the rubber boots that go from the Mass Air Flow Meter (MAF) to the throttle body. The one that goes down to the throttle body has a small tee off that is concertina rubber. The rubber develops a hole in the concertinas and if really bad, stops the engine from starting, especially when the engine is cold.

Do you have an OBD2 scanner? A normal OD2 scanner will read the engine codes and details. It will not read any other modules in the car. At this stage, a normal OBD2 scanner will help us sort your problem. If you need to buy one, a cheap way is to purchase the OBD Fusion app for your phone, then a OBD2 adapter to plug into the car. A Bluetooth adapter for an android phone or a Wi-Fi adapter for an apple phone. Set up OBD Fusion as per these instructions. https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/obd-fusion.1240733/#post-18380161

 

[MartinN]

Maybe a squirt of damp start ethanol aerosol might tempt it to fire & clear its throat

 

[Mario]

I would say try jump start cranking it with some booster cables plugged to another car before buying another battery just in case.

 

[Jasn]

OK, crank no start.

Easy thing to check. Have a look at the rubber boots that go from the Mass Air Flow Meter (MAF) to the throttle body. The one that goes down to the throttle body has a small tee off that is concertina rubber. The rubber develops a hole in the concertinas and if really bad, stops the engine from starting, especially when the engine is cold.

Do you have an OBD2 scanner? A normal OD2 scanner will read the engine codes and details. It will not read any other modules in the car. At this stage, a normal OBD2 scanner will help us sort your problem. If you need to buy one, a cheap way is to purchase the OBD Fusion app for your phone, then a OBD2 adapter to plug into the car. A Bluetooth adapter for an android phone or a Wi-Fi adapter for an apple phone. Set up OBD Fusion as per these instructions. https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/obd-fusion.1240733/#post-18380161

Thanks Murray. I'll check over the boots around there. We had the throttle body out and gave it a good clean not too long ago. Everything seemed OK at that stage.

I have a Foxwell NT520 scanner. The only codes we've had are the rear O2 sensors, but once I have checked whether the battery is OK I'll scan it again and see what comes up.

Jasn

 

[Jasn]

I have tried jump starting from another vehicle and that doesn't work — just get the same thing — so perhaps this is not a battery issue?

 

[Jasn]

After more investigation: battery seems OK, I am getting a spark, cannot see that there's a fuel leak.

So, I scanned it and got the following codes:
D1 DME: Anti-tampering protection EWS
41 DME: Signal, inlet-camshaft sensor (P0340)
44: Tilt sensor, fuse or line

I replaced the inlet camshaft sensor about a year ago when I got the same code.

Does this shed any light on what might be happening?

 

[NZ00Z3]

Hi Jasn

I'm away on a car rally this weekend and don't have my code references with me. The D1 code sounds like the DME and EWS are out of alignment with the ISN code. If this is the case, then you will not have spark at the ignition. You say you have spark, so it may be a historical code.

Does your NT 520 scanner have the BMW software installed? If so, have a look in the EWS with your scanner. There should be an indication that talks about the DME to EWS line. A black dot or yes says that the anti tamper protection has been disable and the car is clear to start. This will confirm that you should be getting spark at the ignition.

If there is no spark and the anti tamper protection is enabled, you will need to set yourself up with INPA to be able to realign the ISN. Hopefully you will not have to do that.

 

[Jasn]

Does your NT 520 scanner have the BMW software installed? If so, have a look in the EWS with your scanner. There should be an indication that talks about the DME to EWS line. A black dot or yes says that the anti tamper protection has been disable and the car is clear to start. This will confirm that you should be getting spark at the ignition.

If there is no spark and the anti tamper protection is enabled, you will need to set yourself up with INPA to be able to realign the ISN. Hopefully you will not have to do that.

Hi Murray
The scanner says 'released' for the DME line. I checked through all the 'disabled' options and there doesn't appear to be any problems there. I am definitely getting a spark - I pulled out an ignition coil and checked.

I have noticed the clock isn't holding the time when the car is switched off (even for a little while)...I am thinking maybe there is something electrical going on. I have seen some stuff online that the camshaft inlet sensor code is sometimes thrown for the outlet sensor or even the crankshaft position sensor so I am somewhat tempted to replace those and see — but with the work and cost involved it starts to make more sense to get a mechanic to come and figure it out.

Jasn

 

[t-tony]

Cam shaft position sensors are easy to DIY Jasn if that's the way you're leaning. I did a "How to" guide on the Inlet sensor on here a few years ago.

Tony.

 

[Jasn]

Cam shaft position sensors are easy to DIY Jasn if that's the way you're leaning. I did a "How to" guide on the Inlet sensor on here a few years ago.

Tony.

I actually did that about a year ago, which is why I am wondering whether it could be one of the other sensors.

Jasn