Z3 M IDLE SPEED PROBLEM

handsomejackuk

Zorg Guru (III)
Australian Zeds
The M44 Massive
Joined
Aug 8, 2016
Points
145
Location
t
its probably the idle control valve doing its job...opening and closing to vary the idle via the ecu as it should...
 

Glen

Regular Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2015
Points
23
Location
Kent
Model of Z
z3m
Hi Thanks for the post.
Before I bought the M I had the double vanos 2.8 and carried out the inlet manifold upgrade with adapter plate and modified disa valve.All went fine ,however upon starting ,the engine would not idle below 2200rpm . Needless to say the problem was a stuck idle control valve.cleaned it with some carb cleaner and all was fine!
 

Pingu

Zorg Guru (III)
3rd Party Trader
Joined
Dec 8, 2011
Points
145
I don't think it is the ECU. One line of code is unlikely to stop working.

The idle control valve is a definite possibility, but so is...

split hose
emissions pump
loose jubilee clip
sticking throttle butterfly on one of the throttle bodies
sticky throttle cable
VANOS diaphragm spring tension
dirty VANOS solenoid
leaking VANOS solenoid seals
...

You really need to study some live data from a specific BMW software program, like TestO (which is free).
 

Pingu

Zorg Guru (III)
3rd Party Trader
Joined
Dec 8, 2011
Points
145
I went for a drive this afternoon and the revs definitely return to 800rpm from any rev setting AFTER the engine has warmed up.

BEFORE the engine is warm, the revs return to around 1100rpm. This is definitely to do with cold start as you can smell the excess fuel when the engine is cold, but not when it is warm.
 

Glen

Regular Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2015
Points
23
Location
Kent
Model of Z
z3m
Video that I made last night showing an acceleration test followed by dropping the car into neutral. The revs dropped straight to 800rpm without hesitation...

Hi
That is exactly what I would expect to see.Took mine out today.70mph into neutral ,rpm down to 1000rpm coasting all the way down to a standstill on stopping straight down to 800rpm !
Did notice that the car was not at full temp after being out for over an hour plugged in diagnostic tool and flagged up 4e temp sensor coolant fault, renewed sensor last year just starting to wonder if I have a faulty thermostat throwing the sensor,bit of a long shot but running out of ideas
 

Pingu

Zorg Guru (III)
3rd Party Trader
Joined
Dec 8, 2011
Points
145
If diagnostics indicate a sensor problem, that is where I would concentrate my efforts.

Was it a BMW sensor or non-OEM? BMW sensors are very good, non-OEM are notoriously bad.

[edit] Why would a faulty thermostat show up on diagnostics? I'd suspect the sensor or the wiring to it.
 

Pingu

Zorg Guru (III)
3rd Party Trader
Joined
Dec 8, 2011
Points
145
I don’t know Pingu maybe the brain expects certain temperatures after a set period of time of the engine running and if not a temperature sensor error Is logged. Maybe just a theory that sort of made sense.
Did your problem sort itself with a new thermostat? If so, OP should try that.

A lovely job - NOT.
 

Althulas

Zorg Guru (V)
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Jun 14, 2014
Points
198
Location
Banburyshire
Model of Z
M Roadster
Cheers Pingu, a pain in the ass job to do but was worth while for me changing the water pump, belts, worn pulley wheels, clean up the tensioners, clean the rad and flush it. While that lot is out the way a good time to change vanos seals, bolts and gaskets if required while the space is there so one silver lining.
 

Pingu

Zorg Guru (III)
3rd Party Trader
Joined
Dec 8, 2011
Points
145
@Althulas - that's the thing. It's not a nice job if it's just the thermostat that needs doing. I agree with you - if any of the other stuff is suspect, it's best to do it at the same time.

Access with radiator removed...

 
Top