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Wanted Z3 Gear Knob
- Thread starter dt7734
- Start date
These, if you happen to find, are quite expensive. Mine is the same design but wood instead of metal. I repaired it this way:
- get the badge from ebay or amazon - https://www.ebay.com/itm/112847609010
- get automotive faux leather, strip the fabric backing which gives it rigidity and leave only the thin 'leather' which is highly malleable. I bought it in a store called Joann here in Oregon USA, but if you have to order it you can look for crafting type - do not spend time with the adhesive ones as they're too thick.
- get a hobby utility knife set - I build model kit cars so I have them laying around. You can also use the snap-off plastic kind but I don't like them, the weight helps a lot when doing precision cuts!
- get leather glue (I don't remember what I used, I think I actually used carpet glue)
- remove the badge without damaging the metal surround - I just poked through it and could lift it easily. Don't try to lift it from the edges.
- Under the badge, there's a screw, undo the screw, metal will come separated from the rubber
- At this point, you can hand or machine polish the metal -- or give it to a jewelry shop so they do it for you.
- Remove the leather from the rubber, try pulling gently so it doesn't break or become stretched. Use the leather as a rough template
- Use glue as indicated and start working it out from the top thick part down to the base. You need to stretch it while working from the centerline out, so it won't have any wrinkles. Trust me, this is the "scary" part, but if you take patience and gently rub your thumbs over it it will stretch and the glue will hold it back.
- Wait until glue has set and trim - I did it roughly and everything still fitted alright.
- Apply more glue to ensure the trimming didn't undo it, I used toothpicks to help it push in between
- Screw it together, use a non-permanent marker, draw a crosshair in the metal and badge to aid visually on top/bottom left/right orientation. They're oval, so you may think it's easy to get it right - it's not! once you've peeled the adhesive from the badge you just want to lay it down and leave it there, trying to readjust it will pull the backing with the print and it will be ruined
Probably due to the kind of adhesive I used, I couldn't do it all in one go, it's fine to add more glue over the glue if it dries out while you wait for it to become sticky enough for the leather to stay where you want it.
Hope it helps!
- get the badge from ebay or amazon - https://www.ebay.com/itm/112847609010
- get automotive faux leather, strip the fabric backing which gives it rigidity and leave only the thin 'leather' which is highly malleable. I bought it in a store called Joann here in Oregon USA, but if you have to order it you can look for crafting type - do not spend time with the adhesive ones as they're too thick.
- get a hobby utility knife set - I build model kit cars so I have them laying around. You can also use the snap-off plastic kind but I don't like them, the weight helps a lot when doing precision cuts!
- get leather glue (I don't remember what I used, I think I actually used carpet glue)
- remove the badge without damaging the metal surround - I just poked through it and could lift it easily. Don't try to lift it from the edges.
- Under the badge, there's a screw, undo the screw, metal will come separated from the rubber
- At this point, you can hand or machine polish the metal -- or give it to a jewelry shop so they do it for you.
- Remove the leather from the rubber, try pulling gently so it doesn't break or become stretched. Use the leather as a rough template
- Use glue as indicated and start working it out from the top thick part down to the base. You need to stretch it while working from the centerline out, so it won't have any wrinkles. Trust me, this is the "scary" part, but if you take patience and gently rub your thumbs over it it will stretch and the glue will hold it back.
- Wait until glue has set and trim - I did it roughly and everything still fitted alright.
- Apply more glue to ensure the trimming didn't undo it, I used toothpicks to help it push in between
- Screw it together, use a non-permanent marker, draw a crosshair in the metal and badge to aid visually on top/bottom left/right orientation. They're oval, so you may think it's easy to get it right - it's not! once you've peeled the adhesive from the badge you just want to lay it down and leave it there, trying to readjust it will pull the backing with the print and it will be ruined
Probably due to the kind of adhesive I used, I couldn't do it all in one go, it's fine to add more glue over the glue if it dries out while you wait for it to become sticky enough for the leather to stay where you want it.
Hope it helps!
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2011
- Points
- 175
Will check, don’t think so though thanks Tony