Have a look in the 6 “slots” around the centre (like between the M and the W in the picture) perhaps you could put a hook behind one of the lugs maybe?
Tony.
Tony.
Z3 Battery Cable Route
- Thread starter IanA
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2012
- Points
- 178
- Location
- Newport, South Wales,UK
- Model of Z
- Z3 M43 1.8 (1999) and Z4 E85 2.5 (2003)
This may be of help with your electrical problem, found it on the link another member posted about today. It is for the Z4 E85 but battery cable routing will be much the same.
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I don't know if this thread will shed some light on the cable layout. One member completely replaced the main loom. I was chuffed when I replaced the brake pedal switch. In some pictures it seems to show the red ht lead https://zroadster.org/threads/wiring-loom-replacement-project.25391/
The battery cable runs through the rear bulkhead, down behind the drivers side plastic bulkhead trim, under the drivers side carpet, up the front bulkhead near the throttle pedal and through the bulkhead under the brake master cylinder where it connects to the cable connector for the engine looms etc. Check for power there. You'll need to remove the drivers seat and some plastics but really, I can't see it taking much more than a couple of hours to replace. I have a good used one here if you need one.
I've found out what the hub cap removal tool looks like:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/E39-E38-740i-750iL-BMW-Wheel-Center-Cap-Tool-E39-E38-Wheel-Style-4-5-6-15-bmw/264760161524?_trkparms=aid=1110006&algo=HOMESPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=20200520130048&meid=de837144bc3046dd8b95bdd7f2cf1beb&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=12&mehot=pf&sd=293124883368&itm=264760161524&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=2047675&algv=SimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithDarwoV3BBEV2b&brand=BMW&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
Just need to see if there's one lurking in the boot... If not, the Part No is 36 13 1 181 948.
Bought one on eBay. How it was delivered (without the hole):
and how I had to modify it in order to deploy it:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/E39-E38-740i-750iL-BMW-Wheel-Center-Cap-Tool-E39-E38-Wheel-Style-4-5-6-15-bmw/264760161524?_trkparms=aid=1110006&algo=HOMESPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=20200520130048&meid=de837144bc3046dd8b95bdd7f2cf1beb&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=12&mehot=pf&sd=293124883368&itm=264760161524&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=2047675&algv=SimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithDarwoV3BBEV2b&brand=BMW&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
Just need to see if there's one lurking in the boot... If not, the Part No is 36 13 1 181 948.
Bought one on eBay. How it was delivered (without the hole):
and how I had to modify it in order to deploy it:
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That’s good, hence the 3 lugs in the centre. I did wonder if they needed turning but couldn’t figure out how you could. Hope you have one!
Tony.
Tony.
Result !!!
Having removed the driver's seat and peeled back the (sopping wet) carpet, the problem revealed itself. No obvious cause, just a lot of corrosion. I don't think it would be a good idea to crimp in a repair section in an area so prone to dampness so I've ordered a length of 40mm2 cable to replace the complete run. For now there is a fan heater and a dehumidifier running inside the car.
Added- Without getting too forensic about it, the bit of green nasty to the left of the cable fell out when touched. The insulation on the nearer end looks as if it's been cut whereas the farther end shows signs of melting. Damaged upon installation? I might chop a few inches off of either end to have a closer look.
Upside- I found £2.05 under the seat. I won't be offering that to the previous owner.
Having removed the driver's seat and peeled back the (sopping wet) carpet, the problem revealed itself. No obvious cause, just a lot of corrosion. I don't think it would be a good idea to crimp in a repair section in an area so prone to dampness so I've ordered a length of 40mm2 cable to replace the complete run. For now there is a fan heater and a dehumidifier running inside the car.
Added- Without getting too forensic about it, the bit of green nasty to the left of the cable fell out when touched. The insulation on the nearer end looks as if it's been cut whereas the farther end shows signs of melting. Damaged upon installation? I might chop a few inches off of either end to have a closer look.
Upside- I found £2.05 under the seat. I won't be offering that to the previous owner.
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Congrats on tracking it down Ian. That’s a new one on me.
Tony.
Tony.
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2012
- Points
- 178
- Location
- Newport, South Wales,UK
- Model of Z
- Z3 M43 1.8 (1999) and Z4 E85 2.5 (2003)
Well found, like I thought it was on my earlier post, must have been damage to the insulation at that point to allow the copper to fester away like that over a long time, the dampness was obviously a contributor to the festering. You are doing the correct thing replacing the entire length bearing in mind the power it carries for starting, any further joints added by grafting a replacement length just increases the risk of future troubles. Seen just as bad on boot looms and it travels back from each side of the breaks so quite a lot of stripping those back to find clean copper to solder.
The heavier starter cable looks OK. This one is the feed to the busbar under the fuse box. The cable is rated at 300A and fused at 200A by the battery terminal. I think that soldering such a heavy cable might de-temper the copper and crimping would definitely let moisture in even under heat shrink. I'll be sleeving the new cable in flexy conduit as well.
So- having run the replacement cable (a more flexible 40mm2 with thicker butyl insulation) and tested all OK, I've cut some of the old cable out to see what the problem was. The loom around the failed area looks as if it has received some attention in the past as the woven sleeving has been replaced by black plastic tape. I think that the insulation on the battery cable was nicked when removing that sleeving. This has allowed moisture ingress to the copper which has led to corrosion and eventual failure. The fan heater and dehumidifier are still running. The flexy conduit is expected soon so I'll be able to complete the repair.
Maybe some one in the past has screwed in to it by accident.
Finale:
Dried out carpets and floor with fan heater and dehumidifier.
Laid in new 40mm2 cable with properly crimped terminals and sleeved in flexy conduit
Attacked rust spots with Kurust (similar action to Bilthamber). Waxoyled whole floor
Tested electrics. Engine started and ran.
Replaced carpet, trim and driver's seat
Reset airbag light using C110 scanner with "pacman" adaptor.
Replaced glovebox with new fasteners (16mm x 4.2mm black passivated flanged pozi screws)
Many thanks to everyone who responded with suggestions, links, pics, etc.
Dried out carpets and floor with fan heater and dehumidifier.
Laid in new 40mm2 cable with properly crimped terminals and sleeved in flexy conduit
Attacked rust spots with Kurust (similar action to Bilthamber). Waxoyled whole floor
Tested electrics. Engine started and ran.
Replaced carpet, trim and driver's seat
Reset airbag light using C110 scanner with "pacman" adaptor.
Replaced glovebox with new fasteners (16mm x 4.2mm black passivated flanged pozi screws)
Many thanks to everyone who responded with suggestions, links, pics, etc.
Good news Ian and thanks to you we’ve al learned something new.
Tony.
Tony.