Z3 2.8 not starting

Xertuk

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Are you certain it's not just flooded ? Had a 320 years ago and ended towing it home convinced it was a spark fault. Garage came over, floored the throttle and after 20 secs burst into life. Hope you get it running soon.
 

Delk

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Plugs are dry so its not flooded. Tried for spark on two different coil packs with no success.

My thought is the crank sensor so the computer doesn't know it's turning to fire the engine. Or the computer itself. But at the moment I have no way to tell what's going on.
 

mrscalex

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Crankshaft position sensor is definitely a possibility. Helped my brother-in-law diagnose his non-start on his E46 recently as that.

Camshaft position sensors much less likely.
 

t-tony

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Cam sensor doesn't stop the engine firing.

Tony.
 

Stevo7682

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Got code reader in boot be at Caister tomorrow make arrangements to meet up and plug it in
Stephen.
 

mrscalex

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Cam sensor doesn't stop the engine firing.

Tony.
I was 99% certain of that. But I stopped short of being categoric. I thought I’d read once that there’s some unusual situation where it can be true.

I think what is possible is a fake camshaft sensor error can be thrown if the crankshaft sensor is duff?
 

Stevo7682

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Hopefully there's a fault code to point things in the right direction.
 

Delk

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Will let Steve explain more but he did find a D1 EWS fault code.

Thanks again for stopping over. Lucky for me you were in the area.
 

mrscalex

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We know it’s not the EWS immobilisation action as it wouldn’t crank if it was. It could be a rolling code (security handshake) between the EWS and DME. Although from memory that should also produce a no crank.

I’ll have a dig around. In theory a D1 (hex) or 209 (decimal) is all we need to investigate and hopefully find a solution.

Are you sure it always cranks?
 
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mrscalex

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Anecdotally a 209 appears to be the rolling code issue.

I’ve had a rolling code issue before with a flat battery. Although I don’t remember if it was that error.

You need INPA (or BMW Scanner v1.4) to perform an EWS resync.

I can’t promise 100% it will fix it. But I can tell you 100% that’s what I’d try first.
 

t-tony

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Delk

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I was wondering that too Pete.

Tony.
Its still dead with no changes. Turns on the key but does not fire.

Steve cleared the codes and as soon as you try to start it the D1 code returns.
 

Stevo7682

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@mrscalex I was hoping you'd be on tonight was going to ask you about this .
As said fault code is
D1 Anti Tampering Protection EWS
And as you have also said looks like a rolling code issue between the EWS & DME.
The code can be cleared but comes straight back at next start attempt.
From what I can gather and as you have stated already ( @mrscalex ) when key put in ignition and turned on chip in key is read and ok with Ews and sets the car for start but the rolling code the ews sends to the dme is out of sync so even though fuel pump running and starter released the Dme does not release the coil pack or injectors so no spark and no flooding ( no fuel delivery) .
I also agree that the next step has to be something like Inpa to attempt a resync between ews and dme.
 

mrscalex

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In exact alignment @Stevo7682

It’s got to be the next thing to try.

The EWS is actually a very basic piece of kit. It’s done its job and the baton has been handed to the DME.

The DME hands the EWS a code after every successful start. Then the DME sees if the EWS has remembered it correctly before the next start is allowed.

This function as best as I can tell is to prevent hotwiring. The EWS would be too easy to bypass otherwise.

The resync is the equivalent of a password reset.
 

Stevo7682

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@mrscalex
Thought I'd tag you with the latest on this as after reading some of your posts I know you have studied into the z3 electronics a bit I am great with nuts and bolts bits my electronic knowledge only goes so far without looking into that specific thing more in depth but at the same time as I do this for a living I find picking things up easier as I have the basic understanding of how it all works .
Next problem for @Delk will be getting someone with Inpa and his zed together mainly due to his location not sure if there are any Eac members who may be able to assist in the next step to helping Delk get his zed back purring away again .
Stephen.
 
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t-tony

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@mrscalex
Thought I'd tag you with the latest on this as after reading some of your posts I know you have studied intro the z3 electronics a bit I am great with nuts and bolts bits my electronic knowledge only goes so far without looking into that specific thing more in depth but at the same time as I do this for a living I find picking things up easier as I have the basic understanding of how it all works .
Next problem for @Delk will be getting someone with Inpa and his zed together mainly due to his location not sure if there are any Eac members who may be able to assist in the next step to helping Delk get his zed back purring away again .
Stephen.
@smiffy could be the man?

Tony.
 

Delk

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Been reading a bit this morning. Between other things didn't get much of a chance last night.

It sounds as if the key releases the EWS and this sends a signal to the DME. This will allow the DME to operate and the starter will engage. But the DME will also then send a signal back and open the injectors and fire the coils.

If I have it right the return signal from the DME is where its going wrong as things are out of sync.

Not sure. I have contacted a company in Norwich that says they can reprogram things and make keys so I will see what they say.
 

mrscalex

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You ideally need to do a rolling code reset first. It’s 30 secs work with the right kit. It could save you an awful lot of money if it works. As well as agro with a garage that makes out they know what they are doing when they don’t. Anecdotally reading many stories over the years on various forums, electronic control systems are a big black blagging hole for most garages.

Do you have a laptop? If so PM me and I can point you in the right direction of how to do this yourself for £25. And leave yourself with a superb piece of diagnostics kit for the future.
 

Delk

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You ideally need to do a rolling code reset first. It’s 30 secs work with the right kit. It could save you an awful lot of money if it works. As well as agro with a garage that makes out they know what they are doing when they don’t. Anecdotally reading many stories over the years on various forums, electronic control systems are a big black blagging hole for most garages.

Do you have a laptop? If so PM me and I can point you in the right direction of how to do this yourself for £25. And leave yourself with a superb piece of diagnostics kit for the future.
I do have a computer and send a message.
 
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