Z3-1.9-1998

[Charlie Z3 2024 Norfolk U]

Hi All,
I've just bought a 1998 1.9 Z3 that's got quite a few, mostly superficial, issues...hopefully. Knew it when I bought it, but wanted a bit of a project car. I have basic car mechanic skills but wanted to stretch myself a bit with this. It says on the Web that the Z3 are ideal for this?
I live in Norwich UK.
It seems that there are 2 trains of thought on whether to go standard or go custom. What are people's thoughts?
Regards Charles

 

[ExMX5owner]

Hi Charles , from the other side of the planet... Welcome to ZRoadster.org..

 

[andyglym]

to the Forum from West Cumbria. The World is your oyster with regards to mods, be it cosmetic, suspension, interiors, engine etc.

 

[t-tony]

Personally I would keep it standard. Primarily because you will learn a lot, including, most likely you want a larger engined (6 cylinder) model and a standard car will likely sell easier than a modified one. Just my honest opinion.

Tony.

ps. Welcome from me near Lincoln.

 

[hard top]

to the Forum.

 

[Matt Barnes]

welcome !!.. I too have 98 1.9 that I'm currently restoring.... I say stay OEM. Being brutal, 1.9s don't command as much value as the punchier models. A few members on here know my trials and tribulations as I too am treating it as a learning project and yes I've learnt TONS !!!....including a whole garage full of new tools..... treat it as a learning journey, don't rush it and try and enjoy the process....

 

[colb]

Welcome aboard the Forum nothing wrong with a 1.9 4 Pot and its easy to work on. I am with the others, keep it standard but do ensure you give attention to all the fluids and check out the inner sills for corrosion, means taking the outers off but a wise thing to do for peace of mind. The age these cars are now usually means all the rubber components, vacuum pipes and intake bellows rot and split then affect running by messing up the fuel trims. Bolster your toolbox with a good code reader and a 20pin to 16pin BMW cable changer so it can be plugged into the round diagnostic socket in the engine bay. If yours also has a 16pin obd2 socket under the steering wheel that only reads engine and transmission modules. The round socket reads all modules which includes airbag modules.
Update your user details to show your location and car model, since we are worldwide on here it assists us answering your posts and saves you typing them in each time you post. You may have other members close by if you ever need a hand with anything.

 

[Charlie Z3 2024 Norfolk U]

Excellent...Thanks for the information.
1st job didn't go to well!
Recliner on driver's seat doesn't work. So removed the whole seat and found that it has most of the original carriage has been removed and it's had a manual rails welded in. Managed to reconnect up recliner cable again and got movement on the 2x spring mechanism the cable connect to directly under seat. However, no movement. The Passenger seat has had motor and spindles removed so no movement backwards or forwards and can't connect a drill to spindles as they are not there. Are the spindles allen key ends, can I cut a allen key and slide it in instead? Recliner works on this side though. There is quite a bit of surface rust on both carriages.
Should I look to get a 2nd hand replacement carriage for drivers seat and new motor for passenger one?.

 

[spurs fan in a coupe]

Excellent...Thanks for the information.
1st job didn't go to well!
Recliner on driver's seat doesn't work. So removed the whole seat and found that it has most of the original carriage has been removed and it's had a manual rails welded in. Managed to reconnect up recliner cable again and got movement on the 2x spring mechanism the cable connect to directly under seat. However, no movement. The Passenger seat has had motor and spindles removed so no movement backwards or forwards and can't connect a drill to spindles as they are not there. Are the spindles allen key ends, can I cut a allen key and slide it in instead? Recliner works on this side though. There is quite a bit of surface rust on both carriages.
Should I look to get a 2nd hand replacement carriage for drivers seat and new motor for passenger one?.

You’re better off finding a local breaker and getting a known to be fully working seat base and swapping over. Just needs to be matching in terms of pre or post facelift.

 

[Mazza]

Hi and welcome to the forum… been through all the trials and tribulations with my 1.9. and now got the same again with a 2.8

I have two facelift seats but they are beige so probably no good to you … but I am up in Norwich quite often, so if you find anything you need down South … I have no problem acting as a delivery service

 

[Charlie Z3 2024 Norfolk U]

Thank you Mazza,
I've just purchased 2x black leather seats from Ebay complete with working carriages. The leather needs some restoration, no holes or splits though, but worn a bit on driver's bolster. So bought some black filler to do a repair. We're going to make up new door card inserts ourselves.

 

[Charlie Z3 2024 Norfolk U]

Just found out it has central locking! Cleaning out water in boot and found some wires which use to connect to part of alarm system (looks to be removed) sitting in water, dried them off and then the boot and driver door solenoids worked! The hazards also kept coming on, now with dry wires the hazards seem not to keep randomly setting off.
Now need to resolve leaking roof the reason for that problem. The clear or should I say opaque in my case rear screen has come away from canvas, so need to find someone who can fit a new clear bit. Anyone know a local to Norwich company who does this at a reasonable rate?
Do the rubbers let pass water or is it likely to be the rear screen issue. Found water on interior trim in boot so now drying that off. So not sure if rubber trim or rear screen.
I'm assuming the solenoid for passenger's door is also knackered so need to source another one. So gad I'm on leave this week...lol

 

[t-tony]

Just found out it has central locking! Cleaning out water in boot and found some wires which use to connect to part of alarm system (looks to be removed) sitting in water, dried them off and then the boot and driver door solenoids worked! The hazards also kept coming on, now with dry wires the hazards seem not to keep randomly setting off.
Now need to resolve leaking roof the reason for that problem. The clear or should I say opaque in my case rear screen has come away from canvas, so need to find someone who can fit a new clear bit. Anyone know a local to Norwich company who does this at a reasonable rate?
Do the rubbers let pass water or is it likely to be the rear screen issue. Found water on interior trim in boot so now drying that off. So not sure if rubber trim or rear screen.
I'm assuming the solenoid for passenger's door is also knackered so need to source another one. So gad I'm on leave this week...lol

Water in boot more than likely to be the 3rd brake light seal. Water in n/s/r well will be aerial seal, or/and, rear light unit seal.

Tony.

 

[Charlie Z3 2024 Norfolk U]

Thanks Tony...
I will check when we get the next down pour...won't have to wait long .

 

[Mint]

Hi Charles and to the forum from me too, across the pond in Stafford, England.

 

[Charlie Z3 2024 Norfolk U]

Hi Mint,
Thank you, but now realised my name on posts is missing a K. It should be UK. So if you know how I can change it to include UK that would be great
Thanks in advance.

 

[Mint]

Hi Mint,
Thank you, but now realised my name on posts is missing a K. It should be UK. So if you know how I can change it to include UK that would be great
Thanks in advance.

I don't think you can change your forum name. Thats's an admin task, perhaps @GazHyde will do the honours.

 

[Shelly]