Winter Taken Its Toll

TaffZee

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My poor old Zed has a case of acne, both front wheel arches small qtr panel, and rear arches and sills showing signs of bubbling and rust, goint to try and repair these myself:wideyed: By removing sills and front panel and doing them in the shed, and then will need to tackle the rear arches in situ, any one got any advice on the best way to go about this? What is the best rust Inhibitor? How long to remove the sills and panel?

Just ordered some of this: http://rustbulletuk.com/home/17-car-rust-paint-rust-treatment-primer-quarter-us-pint.html anyone used it?
 
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miller1098

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Mmmm got the same problem on our sills ,very small at the moment but now I probably the best time to do it.itll be good to see how you get on
 

Grumps

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Sills seem very prone Jim. Had mine painted last year and already the front edge on the sills are showing signs. I'd be tempted to replace them if you can. There only outer skins on the Zed's so not as bigger job as on most cars to replace. :)
 

Lee

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I will have to confess here guys I'm useless with bodywork, an area I don't know much about other than removing it and putting it back on. That's why I paid a body shop to re-spray mine :whistle:

Lee
 

TaffZee

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Hope to start this weekend (Weather Permititng) will take some photos as it progresses. After all 17 years of UK salted roads I expect everyone will come across this sooner of later, no sign of any actual rot, just surface rust where the paint has been damaged and had water/salt ingress not done any bodywork for years, things have moved on a bit since I done any, but willing to give it a go,
But trying to get a Bodywork company just to repair the damage and blow the damaged areas in is impossible locally, start talking 100s if not 1,000s of pounds to do full panels or start quoting for full respray.
 

TaffZee

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Sills seem very prone Jim. Had mine painted last year and already the front edge on the sills are showing signs. I'd be tempted to replace them if you can. There only outer skins on the Zed's so not as bigger job as on most cars to replace. :)
The sills seem to be in good condition really, (except for the bubbles) I think if they are done properly and not just done to look good for 12 months that they will last another 17 years.
 

Dickymint

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I have the same problem with the sills and one rear arch, I'm planning to take them off and remove all rust as I have found if you just treat the area with rust killer it will come back, when it is removed spray with etching primer soon as its dry/clean, I learnt this after dealing with my MX5 after the ends have been wire brushed with a wheel in a drill I'll soak it in some rust remover solution or some acid I brought on e-bay (cant think of the type off hand but it ate the rust clean from the bits I immersed) then when its done take it to a guy I know of and get him to spray it and as there is little prep work it should not cost to much, though I do have a plan to buy a air compressor with spray gun and also a shot blasting kit but the mrs is insisting I get other things first like a stainless steal exhaust made :)
 
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GazHyde

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I always hate to be the doom and gloom person, but my sills only showed surface rust and I assumed it would be a straight forward job... Couldn't find anything chemical off the shelf that would remove the rubberised compound on the bottom of the sills, and ended up having them blasted...

 

t-tony

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Your spot on Gaz, getting the stone chip coating off is much harder than spraying a new coat on. Blow lamp and scraper will do it, but it does stink and you want to be in a well ventilated space too.

Tony.
 

roadvoyager1

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Be careful with the blow lamp. The thick coating is probably PVCand will break down under heat to give off acidic fumes. Don't breath them in they can have nasty effects. Unfortunately there is no easy way to strip this stuff off. @Gaz , looks like you had your blasted with shotgun.....bit extreme.
 

billz

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Jim sorry to hear this. I believe for the under coat you need a really good Zinc based undercoat
 

DavidM

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Purchase of new sills and BMW bodyshop approved refit and paint job will cost at least £800.:arghh: I'm saving for this work to be done.:) At least there's a 3-year warranty.:(
 

TaffZee

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Jim sorry to hear this. I believe for the under coat you need a really good Zinc based undercoat
Already got that Bill, newish product on the market called Rust Bullet, £15 for a little biddy tin. claims look good and with a ten year Guarantee that it stops the rust coming through, and some good write ups on the stuff see here:http://www.rustbullet.com/products/automotive.html?p=2 only time will tell.
 

TaffZee

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I always hate to be the doom and gloom person, but my sills only showed surface rust and I assumed it would be a straight forward job... Couldn't find anything chemical off the shelf that would remove the rubberised compound on the bottom of the sills, and ended up having them blasted...

Not looking to do anything like that, sills are only slightly rusted at each end (fingers crossed) so plan to take them off get rid of the rust apply Rust Bullet to the sill, use filler primer, blend any steps in the paintwork and then blend in with the top coat and Laquer. As I say used to do a lot of bobywork but not for some time, provided the sills are sound but as I say Fingers crossed.
 

Hugo

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I've just got the side panels replaced at the front. One cost £265 from BMW (insurance job) and the other one from Euro car parts which cost £39 and the Euro car parts one is a good fit I was charged £30 to spray the panel and fit it.
 

Phil T

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Got the same problem. Tiny amount of bubbling on the front of the sill just behind the wheel arch appeared this winter. Otherwise they are in good condition. I'm useless at bodywork, but my local bodyshop has quoted £250 to undercoat them inside & out with zinc & then waxoil inside, respray & lacquer. I've stressed I'm looking for a long term solution rather than a quick fix & he reckons its the way to go. Will get the inside door panels done at same time (no rust there) & will try to remember to post progress. Are there any other rust prone areas worth treating while I'm at it?
 

jonco

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................. Are there any other rust prone areas worth treating while I'm at it?
Have posted this pic before but check inside edge of front wing panels (they come off when you do the sills anyway) . Treated mine 2.5 years ago but a lone pimple has re-appeared :( and needs treating before it spreads into a rash.
IMG_0927.JPG
 
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