What next? / Cooling Issue

[antodeco]

Hi all,
Car is a 1998 2.8 ,Workingt 167000 miles. car at the minute. M50 manifold swap completed (no remap). Seat bushings replaced. Rear subframe strengthened. New wheels and new CAI.

What is the next thing I should do? Should I focus on engine improvements or handling improvements? If so, what do you recommend?

 

[Sean d]

Without doubt, Handling, drop rear subframe and replace all bushes, same at the front, replace all bushes and drop links, rack ends ect, lower on Eibach pro springs and new shocks, makes a massive difference, no point in making the car go fast if it doesn't handle how it should

 

[t-tony]

Then fit Stainless brake hoses and bigger brakes with drilled/grooved discs and decent pads so it stops like it should.

Tony.

 

[Sean d]

Then fit Stainless brake hoses and bigger brakes with drilled/grooved discs and decent pads so it stops like it should.

Tony.

Very good point, I thought my brakes where ok until I looked at the discs after my Jaunt with Mint and Bozzy, they are a shade of blue/black

 

[antodeco]

Thanks all. Ill have a look at the shocks/springs and bushes. I only put on new discs recently (forgot to mention!), but I may upgrade the pads into something a little better. Im going to have a look at the cooling system as well, as Ive noticed the heat beginning to tip over the half mark when sitting in traffic.

 

[antodeco]

Back again. Just checking all hoses and noticed what I think is the air intake boot is ripped (from the MAF into the engine?).

Does anyone know what the specific part is for a 2.8? Checked Google and most either say for 1.9 or 3.0 and not sure if they're the same.

Photo attached.

 

[t-tony]

@Grumps got one for his 2.8 a couple of years ago he may have a link?

Tony.

 

[antodeco]

Thanks Tony. I assume this could be part of the cooling issue I have?

 

[mwpe]

Look on WWW.realoem.com, Enter the last seven digits of your vin number and it will show all parts for your car.

 

[t-tony]

No, this is more likely to make the car run poorly, bad idle even put the Engine warning light on.

Tony.

 

[Sean d]

Back again. Just checking all hoses and noticed what I think is the air intake boot is ripped (from the MAF into the engine?).

Does anyone know what the specific part is for a 2.8? Checked Google and most either say for 1.9 or 3.0 and not sure if they're the same.

Photo attached.

The 2.2 that I have just broken had the same split, thats why I got it so chepa, as soon as I heard the car idle I new what the problem would be as the tickover was all over the place and when I drove it, it was down on power, I used it as a bargaining point and knocked £350 of the price we where at, when the guy wasn't looking I felt around and put my finger through a hole, once I got the car I gaffer taped the hole and it became a different animal

 

[Sean d]

Thanks all. Ill have a look at the shocks/springs and bushes. I only put on new discs recently (forgot to mention!), but I may upgrade the pads into something a little better. Im going to have a look at the cooling system as well, as Ive noticed the heat beginning to tip over the half mark when sitting in traffic.

You might have an airlock in the cooloing system, very common problem and easy to resolve

 

[antodeco]

Thanks all. I had noticed the car was a little rough on idle as well (I thought it was over heating related). I've gathered tape over for now until I know what replacement part to get!

I burped the system today. Removed the "air screw"? Beside the rad cap and the rad cap. Ran the engine and squeezed all tubes and bubbles came out, so hopefully I've pushed any air out.

Took the car for a spin there and the engine seems less hesitant now, as I'm assuming it's getting air in properly now.

 

[Grumps]

@Grumps got one for his 2.8 a couple of years ago he may have a link?

Tony.

I haven't a link but got it new off eBay. It was only around £15 and upto now it's been fine.

 

[antodeco]

I haven't a link but got it new off eBay. It was only around £15 and upto now it's been fine.

Thanks. Got the part number from realOEM as suggested by mwpe and got a spurious off eBay. £12. Duct tape for now!

 

[antodeco]

Hi all, part arriving today, so will get it fitted this week.

However, I still seem to be getting an overheat sitting in traffic. It goes up halfway between the 1/2 and 3/4. Once I start driving again, it drops back to halfway, or if I put on the heater it drops back to 1/2. I assume this isint normal. All fluids are topped up in the rad. Any suggestions?

 

[Jack Ratt]

Sounds like you have an air lock somewhere in the system. Put the front end of your car on some ramps and open the bleed screw on the radiator while you run her a while.

 

[t-tony]

It's not uncommon for the engine temperature to rise in stationary traffic simply due to the fact that there is no airflow though the radiator. Hence the gauge drops when you start moving.

Tony.

ps. Fewer and fewer cars even have a temp gauge these days, just an overheating warning light, but a gauge would behave the same way.

 

[antodeco]

Thanks guys. Ill try the bleed screw again. I had "burped" the system, but had never put it up on ramp. Would parking on a massive incline do the same thing? (my driveway is not the most level, so always cautious using jacks and ramps!)

I hadnt noticed it overheating last year, however, im working elsewhere now (so heavy city centre traffic) and I put on the m50 manifold and the air intake from 5harp3y.

 

[Nodzed]

Is your viscous fan working correctly? if the bimetal spring is missing or the oil seals have gone it wont adjust the spin speed with heat increase.