Wandering Z3

Cooper said:
Don, can you please let me know ho much you paid for some of the parts? Where did you get the stuff from? I am in Australia so may have to order a lot of stuff from overseas anyway - the prices are usually better and because I am not doing break down maintenance I have the time. Can we get the bushes etc as full kits?

I will send some pix soon and some more information, time for bed now as 0100 !!!!
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as requested:
$USD
www.bimmerworld.com - I worked with "Gary", who gave great service and really seemed interested. Item #1 is control arms with the ball joints already installed.

During installation, I added sway bar brackets.

The rear shocks made the most noticeable improvement. You could start with those to spread the cost over time.

This car is not tracked. It is (and apparently always has been) a "boulevardier" except when I'm with the BMW club and even then I don't abuse it.


1 BimmerWorld E30/E36/Z3 Front Suspension Overhaul Kits Model: E36 and Z3 (All*); Bushing Set Type: Powerflex Polyurethane, Centered; Pre-Press Bushings into Housings: Yes; Include Tie Rod Assemblies and Select Swaybar Link: Yes/Standard Swaybar Links $404.99 $404.99 Shipped (3/24/2014)
1 Bilstein Sport and Heavy Duty Damper Sets Car Model: Z3 Non M; Shock: Heavy Duty (Year and Model: 1997 z3 2.8) $549.99 $549.99 Shipped (4/22/2014)
2 Genuine BMW Tie Rod Locking Plates Model: E36 3 Series, Z3 $8.99 $17.98 Shipped (3/24/2014)
1 "Lifetime" E30/E36/E46 3 Series Rear Shock Mount Set $39.99 $39.99 Shipped (3/24/2014)
1 Rear Shock Tower Reinforcement Plates Material: T304 Stainless $19.99 $19.99 Shipped (3/24/2014)
1 BMW E30/E36/E46 3-Series Rear Shock Mount Gaskets $2.99 $2.99 Shipped (3/24/2014)
1 Replacement 3 Series Front Strut Mounts Application: E36 Non-M (6/'92+); Location: Driver's Side $49.99 $49.99 Shipped (3/24/2014)
1 Replacement 3 Series Front Strut Mounts Application: E36 Non-M (6/'92+); Location: Passenger's Side $49.99 $49.99 Shipped (3/24/2014)
1 Powerflex E30/Z3/Ti Rear Differential Mount Bushing Type: Purple, 80A $44.99 $44.99 Shipped (3/24/2014)
 
'check why the passenger side door seems to be leaking in the lower part of the door, '

I had this on ours and I found the membrane behind the door card was not sealed at the bottom so allowing water to get in the car. fixed the membrane down with black silicone no leaks now.

 
Well, none of the above. FINALLY today found the alignment problem. The right side strut / control arm mounting bolt was stripped and had to be cut off! No wonder the pulling, lurching and generally awful steering would come and go. I won't be going back to that shop ever again. And my new friend Ali, who found it, at the corner Exxon station, gets the car from now on. Ali is from Turkey, and probably has been fixing BMW's for his entire adult life. But here, he calls himself Armand. Can't imagine why.
 
Happy you found a good guy Don.:)
 
It's always interesting to hear of a new solution to this problem. I'm glad you have found yourself someone who appears able to look at the mechanical bits correctly!

So does she rides like new now then?
 
So the bolt was stripped and the part was loose?
Wow, good job you found that before it came apart. And always nice to finally locate a fault, no matter what it is.
 
I drove it almost 1000 miles with the stripped bolt. But since it had to be cut off, it wasn't going to come apart - it was just a bit loose so that alignment wouldn't hold. With the new parts, the ride is much more steady. But at 85000 miles, I probably could have just done the rear shocks to get the most improvement - to stop that jiggling. The new suspension is all "stock" or touring. It feels quite a bit the same as before, only more solid. No plans to track this car.

Next up - the Dent Dr. , seat bushings, shifter bushings, and on an on. What a hobby! One of these days, I'm going to fix that trunk light, too.

Thanks all, for the interest and suggestions. I hope I've provided some interesting reading in this chapter.
 
Brian4 said:
'check why the passenger side door seems to be leaking in the lower part of the door, '
I had this on ours and I found the membrane behind the door card was not sealed at the bottom so allowing water to get in the car. fixed the membrane down with black silicone no leaks now...
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Silicone is not so good. The butyl tape remains tacky, and would have sealed while allowing the membrane to be removed again, as it must be for things that go wrong inside the door. The silicone has introduced a cured hard adhesive that may be permanently stuck into the foam membrane. On my 1999 Z3, I replaced the sheet plastic membranes with the molded foam membranes, and used more butyl tape where needed.
 
Updating the Wandering Z post: After a year of fighting the pull to the right, I decided to take the bull by the hones and try once more to get it fixed. I went to a highly regarded independent BMW service shop that let me watch under the car, while they checked the alignment (and everything else). As expected, the front alignment is spot on, but there are 2 or 3 degrees of negative toe (out) on each rear wheel, -.55 degrees total toe. The subframe bushings are ok, as are the trailing arm bushes. This shop wanted $3000 to replace all of the bushes and the subframe. Then, I went back to my friend, Ali (see past post) and the local Exxon. HIs thought is that both trailing arms are slightly bent, likely due to oversteer kerb hits in snow, or even in just fun. I think this a more beleivable concept. I don't see many posts about bent trailing arms, but I know from reading that it's pretty easy to do. Any advice / war stories?
 
IT"S FIXED!!! Thanks to the BMW CCA and Steven Schlossman at Roundel Magazine, I found a true expert. In less than 5 minutes he found the worn out steering column u joint. Then, unfortunately, he found the worn out steering rack, and worse still, that the struts I had put in a year ago had been installed without washers. This caused the entire strut mount to turn, wearing through sheet metal. It's all back together now, and diving like new. Just a few $ gone. What a lesson - no idiots will ever touch this car again.
 
Don N said:
IT"S FIXED!!! Thanks to the BMW CCA and Steven Schlossman at Roundel Magazine, I found a true expert. In less than 5 minutes he found the worn out steering column u joint. Then, unfortunately, he found the worn out steering rack, and worse still, that the struts I had put in a year ago had been installed without washers. This caused the entire strut mount to turn, wearing through sheet metal. It's all back together now, and diving like new. Just a few $ gone. What a lesson - no idiots will ever touch this car again.
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Great news Don. Many thanks for the info too. Enjoy some motoring now bud.:)

Tony.
 
I believe that the Z3 is designed to steer badly. You fit lorry size wheels. Add non-flexible run flats. (Plus a spare!) Ignore the tyre pressures. No recommended times to overhaul the suspension and steering, and wonder why the car doesn't steer well.
I fitted new tyres, of a different make to my Zed and this made a difference. Tyre make is important. I renewed the track rods and joints and fitted power flex bearings and this made the Zed steer perfectly. Then, due to family issues had to spend a lot of time driving a Kangoo with 14" non-run flats. Last week I took the Zed out. Wow, what terrible steering. Yes the brain gets used to the steering and adjusts for it. The more you drive it the better the 'brain adjusted' steering gets.
Fit smaller wheels, tyres with flexible side walls. Check the pressures EVERY time you use the car and maintain the suspension and steering.
It the MoT included physically road testing the car, I wonder.........

P.S. I love my Zed despite it's steering.
 
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