- Joined
- Apr 27, 2012
- Points
- 100
I'm certain more than a few roadster drivers have the leaky window issues.
The type where you just wish the window glass would butt up against the roof rubbers a little more snugly.
Well here's quick way to get the window 4 -5mm closer to those rubber seals.
You need a T40 Torx drive and ratchet.
Open the door and locate the door lock striker fitted to the door frame. The striker is the thingy which the door lock connects with to keep the door closed.
Loosen both T40 screws about 2 or 3 full rotations. Use a short stout piece of wood and a LIGHT hammer. place the piece of wood at the pointed tip in the center of the striker and tap, tap tap until the striker has moved back all the way - aprox 4 - 5mm.
Lock the the 2 x T40 screws.
When you close the door, the entire door including window will be just that little bit closer to all the seals - door and window.
If your door striker is already as far back as it will go, carry a towel to mop up water.....
The only other alternative you have is to remove the door card, slightly loosed the 2 top bolts holding the 1/4 light window, then slightly loosen the "foot bolt" of the 1/4 light window located under the door and push it towards the outside of the door. Hold it in that outward position whilst tightening the foot bolt. Tighten the two upper bolts again and re-fit the door card.
By pushing the foot bolt outwards, you are tilting the top of the window inwards towards the rubber seals fitted to the roof.
If you can do both the first and 2nd adjustment, you could gain as much as 10mm of inward movement of the window top in the direction of the seals.
Hope this will help to keep you drier.
Meanwhile, you may also like to hear that I am investigating some options of an ancillary rubber fitting which will provide a discreet narrow "smile" shape in cross section which will run the length of the top of the window glass. The idea is it should fit tightly over the top of the glass and have the "gutter" extension towards the outside of the window. It shouldn't extend more than 8 - 10mm and provide a channel - the "smile" - to prevent water coming into the car. Since it is a continuous piece, unlike the roof rubber seals, it doesn't have the gaps / join points which the roof rubbers have. In cross section the rubber will be an "n" with the smile part at the top of the "n" extending out. The "n" will be the part which fits over the top of the glass of the window.
It will need to be discreet so that when the window is fully lowered, it rests snugly against the door window sill / top edge. So, soft, small but effective - easily removable if the weather is good and quickly fitted when the weather changes to wet.
Comments welcome on this last item please...
The type where you just wish the window glass would butt up against the roof rubbers a little more snugly.
Well here's quick way to get the window 4 -5mm closer to those rubber seals.
You need a T40 Torx drive and ratchet.
Open the door and locate the door lock striker fitted to the door frame. The striker is the thingy which the door lock connects with to keep the door closed.
Loosen both T40 screws about 2 or 3 full rotations. Use a short stout piece of wood and a LIGHT hammer. place the piece of wood at the pointed tip in the center of the striker and tap, tap tap until the striker has moved back all the way - aprox 4 - 5mm.
Lock the the 2 x T40 screws.
When you close the door, the entire door including window will be just that little bit closer to all the seals - door and window.
If your door striker is already as far back as it will go, carry a towel to mop up water.....
The only other alternative you have is to remove the door card, slightly loosed the 2 top bolts holding the 1/4 light window, then slightly loosen the "foot bolt" of the 1/4 light window located under the door and push it towards the outside of the door. Hold it in that outward position whilst tightening the foot bolt. Tighten the two upper bolts again and re-fit the door card.
By pushing the foot bolt outwards, you are tilting the top of the window inwards towards the rubber seals fitted to the roof.
If you can do both the first and 2nd adjustment, you could gain as much as 10mm of inward movement of the window top in the direction of the seals.
Hope this will help to keep you drier.
Meanwhile, you may also like to hear that I am investigating some options of an ancillary rubber fitting which will provide a discreet narrow "smile" shape in cross section which will run the length of the top of the window glass. The idea is it should fit tightly over the top of the glass and have the "gutter" extension towards the outside of the window. It shouldn't extend more than 8 - 10mm and provide a channel - the "smile" - to prevent water coming into the car. Since it is a continuous piece, unlike the roof rubber seals, it doesn't have the gaps / join points which the roof rubbers have. In cross section the rubber will be an "n" with the smile part at the top of the "n" extending out. The "n" will be the part which fits over the top of the glass of the window.
It will need to be discreet so that when the window is fully lowered, it rests snugly against the door window sill / top edge. So, soft, small but effective - easily removable if the weather is good and quickly fitted when the weather changes to wet.
Comments welcome on this last item please...