It's a good video, started chatting to him after about it.
That gearchange clunk
- Thread starter Sajk
- Start date
Fresh gearbox and diff oil made a large difference to my clunk. It's still there but a lot less noticeable.
It's Giubo, pronounced 'Joo Bo'.
The driveline clunk is worse on later cars just like E46's are worse that E36's. It's wear in the driveshaft CV joints (can be regreased) , wear in the prop splines (can be tightened up) and wear in both the diff pin and sun/planet gears - drain it and add some EP140.
Robert Hill
Zorg Guru (III)
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2018
- Points
- 125
Go on YouTube and look up D3Sshooter he go's through the problem in detail on his z3 very talented man
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2020
- Points
- 74
My 2000 3.0i had a hell of a clonk at only 36000 miles, but 21 years old, however I decided to live with it. I changed the gearbox shift pins and bushes, fitted a new clutch and rubber donut. Clunk still there. Decided on a complete rear end overhaul. Rear axle, and trailing arms removed for re-bushing, fitted original type rubber bushes. This included the two axle beam mounting bushes which appeared to be ok but were changed anyway. The diff of course had to be removed but no internal work was done to it although I thought the backlash was a little excessive. The whole lot was refitted using a twin eared diff back cover. Refitted my But Strut and longitudinal braces. Clunk has now completely disappeared no matter how rough I am , it will not clunk. What was the cure? I don't know, but my money is on the beam support bushes not controlling the axle beam sufficiently and the new bushes plus the added beam location caused by the But Strut and bracing and the twin eared diff mount did the trick.
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2020
- Points
- 74
Hi Sajk. I have a post " twin eared diff conversion" with photos in Z3 knowledge base.
Good luck with your clunk
Chris
Good luck with your clunk
Chris
Lee, Apologies for reviving this thread after it has been pretty fully covered, but I drove my 2.2i Sport for a couple of hundred miles yesterday and I now realise (I think) what this 'clonk' sounds like. Correct me if I'm wrong but it seems to be apparent when a slightly clumsy gearchange cause a reversal of torque in the drive train and the backlash manifests itself as a hard metallic clunk. This deterioration of the condition of a component you describe occurs quite commonly, it seems, but my question is this: my car, like some others, has a Torsen differential so would the same phenomenon occur in this type of diff?
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2020
- Points
- 74
Hi motco. My car has a Torsen diff, and no clunk. In my experience odd noises are rarely from the place you think they are generated, sound travels. When I declunked my car I had little success in locating the offending area. I had already changed the gearbox pins and clutch, checked the prop shaft, but still clunking. I have covered this problem and my findings elsewhere on this forum. Thing to remember is the drive train doesn't stop at the diff it carries on to the tyre on the road. In my case it appeared to be transmission wind up. when the clutch is depressed this wind up energy which is stored in all the rubber bushes is released. If any bushes are not doing their job they will clunk and that noise can appear to emanate from elsewhere. In my case changing the two main axle beam to chassis bushes did the trick. It is now totally clunk free
Hi Motco, yeah this will happen across all the diffs in the 6 cyl models. I actually have my 2.2 diff (in my 2.8) being rebuilt for this very reason so I'll be able to back this up with more evidence and photos over the weekend. We've done 4 diff's now and even rebuilt one ourselves, after doing the obvious checks it normally turns out to be the diff making the clunk exactly as you described.
Most people just drive to compensate for it, load the transmission before pulling away etc. No harm will be done, I've been tracking my zed for years with a clonking diff.