Sub and Amp help please

[littlefeller]

There is no way you will get it under the seat, no matter how slim it just won't fit. I have one and its fitted behind the drivers seat (I can fit it there because I'm a short arse) and the bass bounces through the seat, which is actually quite nice Your best option will be behind the passenger seat. You will probably need to get some wires through to the battery for the power and some to the headunit but it's pretty simple. Mine sounds great, I'm so glad I did it because even after changing all the speakers there was hardly any bass.

there is actually a good piece of space behind the seats, I measured the gap behind the drivers seat - about 4 inches, doesn't sound much but most smaller sub drivers would actually fit in there, with a well designed box it could be a winner.

 

[Gundun]

No mate, whats your thoughts.

Ok, it might be a bit tricky but it's definitely worth it: you can fit a compact subwoofer like the Pioneer TS-WX120A and similar under the center console, in front of the gearstick well. I've seen it done in a thread somewhere and, on the Z3's without A/C is definitely possible without consequences in terms of vibration of the panels as it's quite a stiff area and moderate power of the sub (if you want you can also make two side grills to let air out on the side of the center tunnel, but there are already side vents at the sides anyway)

To do that you need to take your console apart, but it fits.

I made a sketch to give you the idea of it.

 

[littlefeller]

Ok, it might be a bit tricky but it's definitely worth it: you can fit a compact subwoofer like the Pioneer TS-WX120A and similar under the center console, in front of the gearstick well. I've seen it done in a thread somewhere and, on the Z3's without A/C is definitely possible without consequences in terms of vibration of the panels as it's quite a stiff area and moderate power of the sub (if you want you can also make two side grills to let air out on the side of the center tunnel)

To do that you need to take your console apart, but it fits.

interesting idea, either way it still requires things taking apart even in the cubby. im considering if it would be possible to fit these behind the seats in a purpose built box. im also having a play about with subs, the 6.5 inch cubby sub is complete but now im building another cubby sub with two 5.25 inch speakers and compare the two. (the ones in the pics are 9 inch but shallow.

 

[littlefeller]

ok, I have been abit of a numpty here, figured why it blew. today I was wiring up this window de-mister to the amp as a signal on signal and figured why it didn't work on the amp, errrrr I wired it the wrong way around in my defence it was getting dark. another error I made was this window feed is 20a not 30a, but still good for a 100w amp (technically good for around 250watts, but I would say 100 safe so it could spike to 200 without causing an issue).
with button depressed it completes a circuit to a relay (unloader relay) with a 20 amp fuse for the relay, so yes it is still good for a smaller amp.

 

[Grandparipper]

Please route a separate wire from the battery to the amp. Make it the correct (large) size to handle the load of the amp. This is not cheap by the foot, but you won't be running it very far if the amp is in the trunk (boot). I think I used 4 gauge, which is pretty fat and a large fuse holder close to the battery for safety. The better quality wire has a lot of very fine wires inside which will flow much more current and is easier to route out of the way and into tight spots. Amps running subs need large amounts of current to move quickly. Use bigger wire to the sub from the amp too. Allow air circulation to keep it from overheating.
Any aftermarket deck will have a blue wire out the back to turn on the electric antenna any time the deck is turned on. Some have two remote turn on leads, one for the power antenna and one for amps. Google will tell you a lot about proper wiring of amps before you buy, but the challenge with a Z Roadster is the small cabin forcing you to get creative with the enclosure.
By the way, mine is a sealed enclosure, not vented. Google the difference. Basically, sealed equals tighter; vented equals more volume, but boomier and less precise. It is tougher to get a custom box with a port dialed in to sound right. I wanted the music to reproduce accurately and deeply, not to impress the car passengers around me with excess thumping.