How do them things work then?
SOLVED: Warning lights - please help!
- Thread starter David
- Start date
@t-tony @Lee @raymond
Just scanned and the three that came up that I could find (have to browse through each section) were:
EPS - 6121 vehicle engine speed
ABS - 5E1A Engine Management: interface
DME (engine) - 2A94 - crankshaft sensor, signal
...just uploading a vid of what happens when I start the car.
Just scanned and the three that came up that I could find (have to browse through each section) were:
EPS - 6121 vehicle engine speed
ABS - 5E1A Engine Management: interface
DME (engine) - 2A94 - crankshaft sensor, signal
...just uploading a vid of what happens when I start the car.
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It was connected for 12 hours. The lights on it said the battery was “100%” charged
The crank sensor is right next to the starter motor. Did you unplug it or knock it while working on the starter?
Is this the one @Murray Wall?
Certainly didn’t disconnect it, but as you say, could’ve easily knocked it, though I was very careful removing and refitting the starter.
give it a 20min run first before you play with it, as iv'e found when battery disconnected or flat that some lights came up, but after a run it went back to normal
Will do, but it’s not just the lights being thrown up - I’ve actually got no power steering.
Just got back from a varied drive, where I started and stopped the engine at least twice. Warning symbols are all still present. Power steering did not come back.
Had the battery checked at Halfords while out and it tested as good.
Had the battery checked at Halfords while out and it tested as good.
You should have stuck to a Z3...
Listening to your video, sounds like it’s trying to crank but not enough juice to do so. When you connected all the electrics back up, did you clean all the terminals ?
Listening to your video, sounds like it’s trying to crank but not enough juice to do so. When you connected all the electrics back up, did you clean all the terminals ?
Did you try the Earth bypass with a jump lead mate, just to remove the possibility of a poor earth to chassis from the engine?
Tony.
Tony.
Yes, the starter motor bolt connector wasn’t looking great, so I even cleaned that up with an abrasive pad.
You’ll have to explain that one to me in a bit more detail Tony! Remember, it’s me your talking to after all!
You have an earth point on the inner wing to put a jump lead on. Connect a jump lead to that and the other end to the engine block.
Tony.
Tony.
David,
I am at a loss as most Starter motors have two cables.. can you take a photo of what you have so we have a better idea. It sounds like a loss of voltage / cranking power. You might have an issue of shorting out some electrical circuits as well as some relays too.
I am at a loss as most Starter motors have two cables.. can you take a photo of what you have so we have a better idea. It sounds like a loss of voltage / cranking power. You might have an issue of shorting out some electrical circuits as well as some relays too.
Yes, there’s the electrical plug, and the chunky wire/plate that bolts on.
I think it’s a loose crankshaft sensor connector.
If you watch closely the video I posted of me starting the car, you’ll see that the car struggles to start, then the warning lights come on, then something appears to ‘click’ (not literally) and the car starts immediately.
I think the car is attempting to start using values from the crankshaft sensor, can’t, and so resorts to preset values, not dissimilar to when you unplug the MAF.
Thoughts?
I would think if the crank position sensor is b******* then it wouldn't start. Full stop. Really difficult to see the connection between removing the manifold and no power steering. The main battery cable could have a heavy visible link near the battery terminal which may have been "blown" seen this at work on later BMW.
Tony.
Tony.