Snapped Wheel Sensor
- Thread starter Chamber66
- Start date
Did the securing screw come out, just leaving the ABS sensor in the hub? If so you're lucky. The sensor is plastic and copper wire which will drill out and break out easily. If it had been the securing screw it's a different story.
Tony.
Tony.
You can't drill too deep, the sensor protrudes through the casting. Did the screw come out OK?
Tony.
Tony.
How close is the sensor ring below the sensor? Would a long drill bit touch the sensor ring?
How competent a mechanic are you? If you're OK, take the calliper and disc off and you will be able to see where the sensor comes through the casting. You simply have to drill a bit and chip away with a hammer and screwdriver or small chisel until it falls out.
Tony.
Tony.
This happened to me the very first time I tried to change a faulty sensor. The sensor is a tight push fit into the hub. As Tony says above, it protrudes through so you can't really damage anything. The sensor itself is basically a mass of tightly coiled very fine copper wire. Just drill it out gently and then just chip the casing with a drift. If you haven't got a drift you can improvise by using a long 6mm dia bolt.
You'll find that you can't avoid getting the fine wire wrapping around your drill but it's very easy to pull off.
When you put the new sensor in, you could gently give it a gentle rub with sandpaper so that it slides in easily. It can't come out because it's secured with a bolt.
You'll be OK, it's not a difficult job
You'll find that you can't avoid getting the fine wire wrapping around your drill but it's very easy to pull off.
When you put the new sensor in, you could gently give it a gentle rub with sandpaper so that it slides in easily. It can't come out because it's secured with a bolt.
You'll be OK, it's not a difficult job
The Pelican Parts thing is for cars that are about 3 years old.
25 British winters later, in the real world.....
I always take the caliper, disc and front hub off. The latter requires a big socket.
I use a grinder and grind the plastic sensor away to reveal the retaining screw threads - then you can chisel the sensor away leaving the screw intact. Punch the remains of the sensor out from the front. You can douse the screw in WD or whatever and ease it out intact. Use a round file and clean up the sensor hole in the hub. It will be as rusty as an old horseshoe. Then you can easily slide the new one in with some copper grease, fit the (greased) screw and reassemble.
The whole job takes me an hour. Once done properly like that, future replacement takes about 15 minutes. You don't even have to jack it up or take the wheel off.
25 British winters later, in the real world.....
I always take the caliper, disc and front hub off. The latter requires a big socket.
I use a grinder and grind the plastic sensor away to reveal the retaining screw threads - then you can chisel the sensor away leaving the screw intact. Punch the remains of the sensor out from the front. You can douse the screw in WD or whatever and ease it out intact. Use a round file and clean up the sensor hole in the hub. It will be as rusty as an old horseshoe. Then you can easily slide the new one in with some copper grease, fit the (greased) screw and reassemble.
The whole job takes me an hour. Once done properly like that, future replacement takes about 15 minutes. You don't even have to jack it up or take the wheel off.
Thanks for all the help with this one finally got the thing out. Drilled out most and finished o now the new one won't fit in the hole and I'm frightened of breaking it. I knew I should have stuck with motorbikes 
Thanks for all the help with this one finally got the thing out. Drilled out most and finished o now the new one won't fit in the hole and I'm frightened of breaking it. I knew I should have stuck with motorbikes
I had the same problem. Just file the outer case of the new sensor until it will fit.
Get a piece 7mm steel round bar. Hacksaw a slot down the middle to about 25mm. Get some emery strip and push the end of a 6" length into the slot. Wind the rest tightly round the bar. Put bar in a drill and clean the rust out of the hole.
The battery terminal cap is only to keep the emery from unwinding.
Tony.
The battery terminal cap is only to keep the emery from unwinding.
Tony.
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A lot of people aren’t as confident as you and I to do it that way Andy.
Tony.
Tony.
O
Yep trying to do as much future bushing as possible before painting