OH, and my favourite new tool is the pneumatic impact gun I got for my compressor. Blimey I changed wheels in 20 minutes or less, well chuffed!
Slowest Z Tweak Thread in the History of the Forum
- Thread starter buze
- Start date
You jinxed me Gaz, look, WEEKS with no activity ;-)
No still have the 'brakes' project on track, however I need to get all four caliper+holders+hoses+discs/pads prepared/refurbed/painted. As well as changing the wheel arches at the front (thanks to @spurs fan in a coupe as always) so there's quite a bit of preping. That'll take some time!
So the only things that changed are 1) a new tonneau I picked for £70 on ebay, a really really nice gentleman who just bought a Z4 -- unfortunately he's not very internet-y so it's unlikely we'll see him here; bit of a loss! 2) is that I made a way to remove the luggage carrier, using dome bolts (A2) and washers. Works pretty well!
So that'll be the 'summer' car; the winter car will have the #18's with rain tyres, and the hard top.
No still have the 'brakes' project on track, however I need to get all four caliper+holders+hoses+discs/pads prepared/refurbed/painted. As well as changing the wheel arches at the front (thanks to @spurs fan in a coupe as always) so there's quite a bit of preping. That'll take some time!
So the only things that changed are 1) a new tonneau I picked for £70 on ebay, a really really nice gentleman who just bought a Z4 -- unfortunately he's not very internet-y so it's unlikely we'll see him here; bit of a loss! 2) is that I made a way to remove the luggage carrier, using dome bolts (A2) and washers. Works pretty well!
So that'll be the 'summer' car; the winter car will have the #18's with rain tyres, and the hard top.
I love the color of your wheels...have you got the reference of it?
These are MV1's in 'anthracite'. I'm going to have them refurbed during the winter -- probably same color, or 'shadow chrome' that I think will be very similar...
Note that I have 10mm spacers at the front, and 20 at the back, I'm not sure they would look very good without the spacers...
So, a bit of an update on the car. I've had a 'dead MAF' for a while -- the whole story is a bit involved, but it started by me asking the garage to re-route the coolant pipe that runs over the air box, in preparation to install the K&R kit I got for @5harp3y -- that plus a lot of other work they did.
Long story short, the pipe was rerouted but leaked, and leaked JUST over the air intake of the OEM air box. After quite a bit of cleaning, the car would 'start' but die immediately; unplugging the MAF allows me to drive. So I cleaned the MAF extensively (WD40 contact cleaner -- very nice!) -- no luck.
I cleaned the airbox completely, changed the air filter and still the car wouldn't run with MAF on.
Anyway, the garage ordered a new MAF, and last week I went to get in put in... and.... it STILL didn't work with a new MAF! The mech went straight for a 'long handed mirror' and had a check inside, and told me that the air manifold was slightly off kilter -- basically I had an air leak there, and it's VERY likely it had been there all along (!) as he's seen that sort happen on some other cars for that series before (thus the mirror check).
He took down quite a few bits to access the manifold clips, on the way discovered a half rotten vacuum line (now changed) and re-cliped the manifold. Installed the OLD MAF and ..... zoom car was working again.
To be fair, I always was wondering what the 'sucking' noise I was hearing was... almost like a turbo. Now the sound is gone, and it was likely (dirty) air getting sucked in by the manifold leak! Now the sound is gone... it's also a lot quieter, I wonder if I had a bit of a 'free' sound upgrade thru this as well ;-)
On this one the guys at the garage were stars -- the experienced guy knew *exactly* what was going on when the new MAF didn't work, two thumbs up --- even if they had installed the leaky overflow pipe in the first place (now fixed).
It's likely me removing the airbox to clean it made the air-leak worse, and triggered the a MAF/ECU threshold where it didn't work anymore.
Anyway, morals of the story 1) not advised to yank on the air intake manifold 2) if you hear a turbo, you don't and 3) there is a sneaky rubber pipe under the air intake that is easily missed and is LIKELY rotten like mine...
Long story short, the pipe was rerouted but leaked, and leaked JUST over the air intake of the OEM air box. After quite a bit of cleaning, the car would 'start' but die immediately; unplugging the MAF allows me to drive. So I cleaned the MAF extensively (WD40 contact cleaner -- very nice!) -- no luck.
I cleaned the airbox completely, changed the air filter and still the car wouldn't run with MAF on.
Anyway, the garage ordered a new MAF, and last week I went to get in put in... and.... it STILL didn't work with a new MAF! The mech went straight for a 'long handed mirror' and had a check inside, and told me that the air manifold was slightly off kilter -- basically I had an air leak there, and it's VERY likely it had been there all along (!) as he's seen that sort happen on some other cars for that series before (thus the mirror check).
He took down quite a few bits to access the manifold clips, on the way discovered a half rotten vacuum line (now changed) and re-cliped the manifold. Installed the OLD MAF and ..... zoom car was working again.
To be fair, I always was wondering what the 'sucking' noise I was hearing was... almost like a turbo. Now the sound is gone, and it was likely (dirty) air getting sucked in by the manifold leak! Now the sound is gone... it's also a lot quieter, I wonder if I had a bit of a 'free' sound upgrade thru this as well ;-)
On this one the guys at the garage were stars -- the experienced guy knew *exactly* what was going on when the new MAF didn't work, two thumbs up --- even if they had installed the leaky overflow pipe in the first place (now fixed).
It's likely me removing the airbox to clean it made the air-leak worse, and triggered the a MAF/ECU threshold where it didn't work anymore.
Anyway, morals of the story 1) not advised to yank on the air intake manifold 2) if you hear a turbo, you don't and 3) there is a sneaky rubber pipe under the air intake that is easily missed and is LIKELY rotten like mine...
Do you have any pictures of the re-routed pipework and any info on what they used or how they did it?
Here are pics of the job:
Not a hell of a lot of time lately, my 'brake' project has stalled due to lack of time (other projects!). I did do a few bits tho, like fixing the spring for the driver's seat belt, plus a few other bits and bobs.
However, I've put the hard top on yesterday, as this week is supposed to get chilly. Sure enough, car said 0.0C when I took it this morning!
However, I've put the hard top on yesterday, as this week is supposed to get chilly. Sure enough, car said 0.0C when I took it this morning!
Blimey. Dusty topic! Winter doesn't help with tinkering the car...
Anyway, got the #18 refurbed, and I'm picking up these MV1's refurbed as well tomorrow. Nice looking job so far..
Anyway, got the #18 refurbed, and I'm picking up these MV1's refurbed as well tomorrow. Nice looking job so far..
Well the MV1s look fab, but wow, the #18 are SO much comfier to drive around onThe dark wheels against the dark green looks good
I'm keeping the #18 as winter whells, and I'll put the MV1 on in the spring..
Like the dark (shadow chrome?) wheels, is the hardtop a lighter green or just a lighting issue in the picture?
Yes they were shadow chrome, painted tho, not refurbed. I'm having them re-done in the same shade (or a notch lighter)..Like the dark (shadow chrome?) wheels, is the hardtop a lighter green or just a lighting issue in the picture?
Yes the hard top is boston green! It actually works pretty well as a combination..
Hi,Well the MV1s look fab, but wow, the #18 are SO much comfier to drive around on
I'm keeping the #18 as winter whells, and I'll put the MV1 on in the spring..
Are the #18s better as they are smaller diameter and give a bit more tyre ?
I am still looking at pros and cons on wheel sizes for my project. I think I have decided on maximum of 17”
Thanks
Dave
I think there's more rubber overall on the 17" inches (#18 wheels) and you do feel the difference in a rather siginficant way.However, the 18" look fantastic.. It's like the hard top -- looks good with it, but looks good without
My advise, do like I did, pick a pair of 18" to show off in summer
Which side do you put the "pair" on then.I think there's more rubber overall on the 17" inches (#18 wheels) and you do feel the difference in a rather siginficant way.However, the 18" look fantastic.. It's like the hard top -- looks good with it, but looks good without
My advise, do like I did, pick a pair of 18" to show off in summer
I've got 18s for the better weather and my original 17s for winter. When the run flats are dead I'll replace them with pukka winter tyres as it's my daily car.
Tony.
Told ya all it'll be a slow thread
Anyway, today, I've put back the newly refurbed MV1s... and I found a chip on them already, so my first drive was to the refurb center for a 'word'. They are going to fix it next week blah blah. I really *despair* of *anyone* doing a good job, at *whatever* they are doing these days.
Anyway, today, I've put back the newly refurbed MV1s... and I found a chip on them already, so my first drive was to the refurb center for a 'word'. They are going to fix it next week blah blah. I really *despair* of *anyone* doing a good job, at *whatever* they are doing these days.
Crickey mate who pulled your chain 
. Agree about the wheels though. Sad to say its a common ailment these days.
Tony.
ps. You did say slow in fairness.
. Agree about the wheels though. Sad to say its a common ailment these days.Tony.
ps. You did say slow in fairness.
Well I've been mega-busy with work TBH, I've got tons of stuff to do from last year, and now even more after the winter... the sills on one side are /bad/ and that needs fixing. I also have my brake refurb project stalled, and I also have the cooling system+water pump project stalled.
The good news is that the car is ticking along happily, I drove it most days this winter (unless /really/ sh*t weather) and I had several excellent drives in on sunny days. Drove to and back from wales with the top down by -4. So there -- I discovered there is a serious draft just behind your left shoulder, but if you have a scarf etc it's dandy!
The good news is that the car is ticking along happily, I drove it most days this winter (unless /really/ sh*t weather) and I had several excellent drives in on sunny days. Drove to and back from wales with the top down by -4. So there
-- I discovered there is a serious draft just behind your left shoulder, but if you have a scarf etc it's dandy!