Well done for getting as far as you have.
Tony.
Tony.
Seized brake/fuel line bracket
- Thread starter DrWong
- Start date
With me, those bloody screws have one chance with a screwdriver. After that, I just bend and break the steel clamp and then wind the screw in and out with Molegrips and WD40.
It's worth belting the end of the screwdriver first to try and shock the screw. Sometimes it works!
It's also worth removing the clamps, popping the brake/fuel lines out of the plastic bracket and giving them a clean up and some grease. I did this on my 1989 7 Series in 2004 and it still has all the original pipes.
It's worth belting the end of the screwdriver first to try and shock the screw. Sometimes it works!
It's also worth removing the clamps, popping the brake/fuel lines out of the plastic bracket and giving them a clean up and some grease. I did this on my 1989 7 Series in 2004 and it still has all the original pipes.
Thank you mate! That's really helpful info and encouraging to know others have managed to overcome this. So if I get the metal clamp out the way, I'll be able to see enough of the screw to get grips on it? Seen some special Japanese screw removal pliers that seem worth a shot if I can create clearance around the screw head (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gripping-Extractors-non-slip-Engineer-neji-saurus/dp/B001D7KU7W).
Any tips on removing the metal bracket pls? Do you bend back and forth along the same spot until it fatigues, or just go full-on cave-man with it? Some strategic cuts with a Dremel would seem sensible, taking care to avoid the screw head.
Re: belting screw with a screwdriver, have already attacked it for prolonged periods with a hammer and chisel and it didn't budge - I was pretty shocked. And duly noted on housekeeping for the lines, if I manage to get the sodding bracket off I've got new parts on hand and will give everything a clean/grease
Yup.
Cheers mate, feeling a bit more optimistic now
Bit of progress. Managed to cut and flare the lines after the bracket. Couldn't properly stagger the joins tho, due to needing a minimum length of pipe for each flare (length of brake fitting + whatever the flare tool needs) and also because I needed to cut somewhere I could fit the tool and turn the spanner for it. I'll either angle the bottom fitting ever so slightly, or just let the pipe joiners touch each other (male to male - oooh-er). Doing the flares themselves was stupidly awkward.
Had a minor nervous breakdown when the threads on the punch stripped halfway during the first flare. Fortunately, AB Tools who I bought the tool from were amazing when I called them and sent me an entire replacement (not just the punch) by the following day, no charge. Shout out to AB Tools - will be buying from them again. I had marked the position of the original tool on the pipe so was able to line up the replacement to continue the flare and just about rescue the situation
Had a minor nervous breakdown when the threads on the punch stripped halfway during the first flare. Fortunately, AB Tools who I bought the tool from were amazing when I called them and sent me an entire replacement (not just the punch) by the following day, no charge. Shout out to AB Tools - will be buying from them again. I had marked the position of the original tool on the pipe so was able to line up the replacement to continue the flare and just about rescue the situation
New lines bent up and joined to the front to backs. Tomorrow's tasks are to nip everything up, test, and then bleed. Never bled brakes before so any hints/tips here gratefully received. Will be using the @t-tony approved gravity method, as that seems to have the least chance of going south!
How tight should brake unions be done up? Presumably not FT. Was planning on just tightening incrementally until any leaks stop, rather than going crazy from the beginning.
How tight should brake unions be done up? Presumably not FT. Was planning on just tightening incrementally until any leaks stop, rather than going crazy from the beginning.
That's all they need to be. The pressure test carried out during an MOT test depends on the person pressing the brake, so there is no "mean" pressure applied. In a " One Man Test Lane" set up the tester applies the same type of tool to the brake pedal that I use when disconnecting brake lines. It only applies a small amount of pressure while the tester inspects for any leaks, believe it or not.
Just normal pressure, ie 2 Weetabix breakfast.
Tony.
ps. The pipes look good. Great job.
Just normal pressure, ie 2 Weetabix breakfast.
Tony.
ps. The pipes look good. Great job.
No activity yesterday due to inclement weather so taken today off work to attempt brake bleeding.
@t-tony Can I run the following past you pls. I bought a syringe to syphon off all the old brake fluid from the reservoir. Could I use the same syringe to bleed the brakes? In my head, the steps are:
1. Syringe old red fluid out of reservoir, top up with new clear Comma Dot 4
2. Attach syringe to bleed screw with hose
3. Crack bleed screw (1/4 turn)
4. Slowly draw fluid out until red is replaced with clear and no bubbles in hose
5. Tighten bleed nipple, move onto next caliper
If I need to empty the syringe, tighten bleed screw, empty and then go from step 2 again. This should work from what I understand of the process? It would be quicker than gravity (keen to book MOT) and also doesn't involve pumping the pedal
@t-tony Can I run the following past you pls. I bought a syringe to syphon off all the old brake fluid from the reservoir. Could I use the same syringe to bleed the brakes? In my head, the steps are:
1. Syringe old red fluid out of reservoir, top up with new clear Comma Dot 4
2. Attach syringe to bleed screw with hose
3. Crack bleed screw (1/4 turn)
4. Slowly draw fluid out until red is replaced with clear and no bubbles in hose
5. Tighten bleed nipple, move onto next caliper
If I need to empty the syringe, tighten bleed screw, empty and then go from step 2 again. This should work from what I understand of the process? It would be quicker than gravity (keen to book MOT) and also doesn't involve pumping the pedal
Last edited:
Yes, that will work fine. May be a little time consuming but that's all. Hope it keeps dry for you.No activity yesterday due to inclement weather so taken today off work to attempt brake bleeding.
@t-tony Can I run the following past you pls. I bought a syringe to syphon off all the old brake fluid from the reservoir. Could I use the same syringe to bleed the brakes? In my head, the steps are:
1. Syringe old red fluid out of reservoir, top up with new clear Comma Dot 4
2. Attach syringe to bleed screw with hose
3. Crack bleed screw (1/4 turn)
4. Slowly draw fluid out until red is replaced with clear and no bubbles in hose
5. Tighten bleed nipple, move onto next caliper
If I need to empty the syringe, tighten bleed screw, empty and then go from step 2 again. This should work from what I understand of the process? It would be quicker than gravity (keen to book MOT) and also doesn't involve pumping the pedal
View attachment 239915
Tony.
Car just passed its MOT, no advisories. The tester was very complimentary about the brake pipe job and was shocked when I told him I did it, haha.
Ended up gravity bleeding, followed by the two-man method (but using my trusty brake pedal pusher-downer stick). My initial idea to use a syringe to bleed was very time/effort intensive (as Tony predicted).
Thanks for the advice all
Ended up gravity bleeding, followed by the two-man method (but using my trusty brake pedal pusher-downer stick). My initial idea to use a syringe to bleed was very time/effort intensive (as Tony predicted).
Thanks for the advice all