Seized brake/fuel line bracket

DrWong

Zorg Guru (III)
Joined
May 8, 2017
Points
125
Model of Z
3.0i
Hi all, currently renewing the hard/rubber brake lines (MOT advisories last year) and can't for the life of me undo the screw for the clamp holding the front to back brake/fuel lines on the underside of the chassis, in front of the rear passenger wheel - the item in photo below. It appears to be seized solid.

My first attempt with a Phillips screwdriver just chewed it. I then Dremel'd some slots and tried a breaker bar with a flat head bit and it just twisted the bit. I've since emptied a can of Crack-It freeze spray on the screw and wailed on it with a hammer and chisel (for about half an hour in total) and it hasn't budged a millimetre.

I'm out of ideas so could anybody advise please? I have new parts on hand (plastic bracket and metal retaining plate with the captive screw) so don't mind destroying the original parts if need be.

Thanks

Brake_fuel bracket.jpg
 

DrWong

Zorg Guru (III)
Joined
May 8, 2017
Points
125
Model of Z
3.0i
Fair question. The front to back pipes look much worse after they snake round to the wheel arch where they're exposed, i.e. before they reach the first set of flexi's. I agree with the MOT blokey that they need changing.

Brake pipes.jpg
 

Stevo7682

Zorg Expert (I)
Supporter
The M44 Massive
Scottish Zeds
Joined
Apr 1, 2016
Points
208
Location
Maybole , South Ayrshire
Model of Z
Z3 Individual Dakar / Orinoco Individual
I would get a pipe cutter and a flaring kit cut and shut pipes at rear floor as they are usually OK from there forward to abs pump.

Stephen.
 

DrWong

Zorg Guru (III)
Joined
May 8, 2017
Points
125
Model of Z
3.0i
I would get a pipe cutter and a flaring kit cut and shut pipes at rear floor as they are usually OK from there forward to abs pump.

Stephen.
Thanks, that may well be what I'll do just to get it back on the road. Got the flare tool and managed to renew everything else thus far. On the offending pipes, looks like I may have to bend them to make room for the tool and then bend them back after I've flared them.
 

Stevo7682

Zorg Expert (I)
Supporter
The M44 Massive
Scottish Zeds
Joined
Apr 1, 2016
Points
208
Location
Maybole , South Ayrshire
Model of Z
Z3 Individual Dakar / Orinoco Individual
Thanks, that may well be what I'll do just to get it back on the road. Got the flare tool and managed to renew everything else thus far. On the offending pipes, looks like I may have to bend them to make room for the tool and then bend them back after I've flared them.
They should bend a little fine once flared ( single on the original pipe ) and double on the new pipe ) when you go to straighten up against floor put a pencil or similar above the bend to give something to push against before pipe hits floor.
Also if you are going to do it that way cut the 2 original pipe at slightly different length ( keeps all the new fittings slightly apart) and makes easier to identify the left and right pipe.
Stephen.
 

DrWong

Zorg Guru (III)
Joined
May 8, 2017
Points
125
Model of Z
3.0i
I'll have to get that bracket off at some point soon-ish though, as I can see the fuel lines are starting to perish behind it.

If anybody has any suggestions, I'm all ears. Last resort is drilling the screw out, but I'd rather not try that due to the risk to the thread.

Does anybody know how long the stud is that the screw goes into? i.e. if I drill the screw head and free off the plastic bracket, would I see enough of the remaining screw to maybe get some grips on it?
 

colb

Zorg Guru (V)
British Zeds
Joined
Nov 25, 2012
Points
178
Location
Newport, South Wales,UK
Model of Z
Z3 M43 1.8 (1999) and Z4 E85 2.5 (2003)
You could drill down the centre of the screw head and then use an extractor which is left hand thread to undo the screw, the heat from drilling the hole may well go somewhere to help break it loose with the extractor.
Use one of the extractors up from the smallest in the set so you have less chance of snapping it off.
 

t-tony

Zorg Expert (II)
Supporter
British Zeds
#ZedShed
Joined
Dec 31, 2013
Points
226
Location
Torksey Lock,Lincoln, England
Model of Z
E89 Z4 23i Auto
I would use a set of these type of extractors. These will shift it if anything will. I know its a round surface, but, we used to use these to remove the Allen type screws in VAG vehicle water pumps. They were smooth and round on the outside and the tools would turn them. Smaller sets are available.



Tony.
 

DrWong

Zorg Guru (III)
Joined
May 8, 2017
Points
125
Model of Z
3.0i
You could drill down the centre of the screw head and then use an extractor which is left hand thread to undo the screw, the heat from drilling the hole may well go somewhere to help break it loose with the extractor.
Use one of the extractors up from the smallest in the set so you have less chance of snapping it off.
Cheers mate, I may well have to resort to drilling it if nothing else works. I've read the drill bits for extractors are also left-hand and the action of drilling the pilot sometimes catches the screw and turns it out.

My issue here is I'd be doing it in my back yard with the car on stands so aiming the drill straight could be challenging. I might have to get a garage to do it on a proper lift, as I really don't want to damage the threads inside the stud.
 

DrWong

Zorg Guru (III)
Joined
May 8, 2017
Points
125
Model of Z
3.0i
I would use a set of these type of extractors. These will shift it if anything will. I know its a round surface, but, we used to use these to remove the Allen type screws in VAG vehicle water pumps. They were smooth and round on the outside and the tools would turn them. Smaller sets are available.



Tony.
Thanks Tony, I'd actually bought the set at the link below but not tried yet as wasn't sure if it would work, what with it not being a bolt. But if you say they've worked for you before will definitely give them a shot tomorrow! The screw head is 7 inch and the smallest extractor in the set is 1/4 inch which google says is 6.35mm, so hopefully enough for it to grab onto

 

t-tony

Zorg Expert (II)
Supporter
British Zeds
#ZedShed
Joined
Dec 31, 2013
Points
226
Location
Torksey Lock,Lincoln, England
Model of Z
E89 Z4 23i Auto
Just use a socket extension so that you can really hammer it on to the screw head, Oh and wear some stout gloves.

Tony.
 

DrWong

Zorg Guru (III)
Joined
May 8, 2017
Points
125
Model of Z
3.0i
Just use a socket extension so that you can really hammer it on to the screw head, Oh and wear some stout gloves.

Tony.
What do you mean by use a socket extension Tony? I get that I should hammer the bolt extractor onto the screw head to make sure it fits snugly (and to wear gloves!)

Just offered up the smallest extractor to the screw on the spare bracket I bought and looks like the extractor should bite, so fingers crossed tomorrow🤞
 

t-tony

Zorg Expert (II)
Supporter
British Zeds
#ZedShed
Joined
Dec 31, 2013
Points
226
Location
Torksey Lock,Lincoln, England
Model of Z
E89 Z4 23i Auto
If you use a socket extension in the extractor you can drive it onto the screw head with less risk to your fingers is all. Hope you get it off OK.

Tony.

ps. Then, as Steve said you can cut off the corroded pipe and join on a new piece.
 

DrWong

Zorg Guru (III)
Joined
May 8, 2017
Points
125
Model of Z
3.0i
If you use a socket extension in the extractor you can drive it onto the screw head with less risk to your fingers is all. Hope you get it off OK.

Tony.

ps. Then, as Steve said you can cut off the corroded pipe and join on a new piece.
Ahhh I see - that's a great tip, thanks Tony.!
 

Althulas

Zorg Guru (V)
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Jun 14, 2014
Points
198
Location
Banburyshire
Model of Z
M Roadster
Those extractor sockets have come in handy for me a few times. If you can dremel that plate off around the bolt to allow the socket to be driven deeper may help to be more successful with removal.
I’ve also got one of these sets for the worse case scenario US PRO Screw Extractor Easy Out Drill and Guide Set Broken Screw/Bolt Remover 2632 https://amzn.eu/d/65xcBaW
 

DrWong

Zorg Guru (III)
Joined
May 8, 2017
Points
125
Model of Z
3.0i
Those extractor sockets have come in handy for me a few times. If you can dremel that plate off around the bolt to allow the socket to be driven deeper may help to be more successful with removal.
I’ve also got one of these sets for the worse case scenario US PRO Screw Extractor Easy Out Drill and Guide Set Broken Screw/Bolt Remover 2632 https://amzn.eu/d/65xcBaW
Cheers Althulas, haven't come across those easy out things before, so will bear them in mind if it gets to the worse case scenario. Or potentially just pay a garage to drill it out on proper ramps if it gets to that stage.
 

t-tony

Zorg Expert (II)
Supporter
British Zeds
#ZedShed
Joined
Dec 31, 2013
Points
226
Location
Torksey Lock,Lincoln, England
Model of Z
E89 Z4 23i Auto
Whatever you want to call it, it still needs “screwing” off the stud? Which is why I suggested using the type of tool that I did.

Tony.
 

DrWong

Zorg Guru (III)
Joined
May 8, 2017
Points
125
Model of Z
3.0i
Tried hammering the bolt extractor on the screw but it just wouldn't seat and stay on. Car is on stands so couldn't get a full swing with the hammer. Inspected the extractor afterwards and the flutes inside were wearing flat, so unsure if it would've gripped even if it seated. Higher quality extractors prob would have worked better, as the ones I got are evidently softer than the screw I'm trying to remove🤦‍♂️ Will send back to Amazon methinks.

The plan now is to cut and join the pipes after the bracket, so I can get at least get the car MOT'd and back on the road. Will then think about what to do about the sodding bracket afterwards.

Other than Beelzebub's bracket, I'm quite pleased with how the rest of the job has turned out. Much of this was down to the info/guidance on this great forum. Some photos of shiny new parts below.

Front brake line.jpg


Rear brake line.jpg
 
Top