Seat Problems - up/down + seat back stuck

bonbon

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Mar 13, 2012
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75
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Israel
Model of Z
19L Auto
So I'll need to hook it up to 12V somehow....
Once on the bench - is it easy to see which contact is +12V and which is 0V?
 
Last edited:

Derick Mills

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British Zeds
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Feb 19, 2019
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RETFORD
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2.8i
Hi I'm new to this forum, just wondering if anyone knows how to remove a seat if the seat won't slide forward I've got the two nuts from the front but can't get the back studs. The motor is working but won't turn the spindles, I have done the drill trick the spindles turn but the seat does not move, at a loss anyone got any idea please.
 

Derick Mills

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Hi Max
There are at least a couple of good posts on removing the seats and replacing the bushes on the threaded spindle/cage that the motors turn to adjust the seat position.
You may have 'rocking seats' which is movement apparent under breaking and cornering. The solution is to replace the original rubber bushes with new polythene ones available from aceman on this site.
If you are taking your seats out to investigate this motor problem it would be a good time to do it.
Good luck.
MM
Hi I'm new to the site but how do you remove the seat if it won't go forward to remove the rear studs, I have tried taking the spindles from the motor and using a dril , the spindle turns easily but no seat movement I have removed the front nuts but at a loss now, hope someone can help
 

mrscalex

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The spindles are only held in from the tension of being sandwiched between the motor and mechanism. They easily come out of engagement once the motor is removed. So possibly you are turning them and they are not engaged. If so you need to push back into place and apply some inward pressure when turning to keep them there.

Also you need to do a few turns at a time on each side. Otherwise the frame will get skewed.
 

Ianmc

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Hi @maxz3
Is your car a M44 (twin cam) or M43 (single cam)? 1997 year could be either. Assumption seems to be it's the former, but worth checking as a new owner (for parts etc). Both engines are chain driven.
 

Derick Mills

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The spindles are only held in from the tension of being sandwiched between the motor and mechanism. They easily come out of engagement once the motor is removed. So possibly you are turning them and they are not engaged. If so you need to push back into place and apply some inward pressure when turning to keep them there.

Also you need to do a few turns at a time on each side. Otherwise the frame will get skewed.
Ok thanks I’ll try that let you know what happens
 

Derick Mills

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Ok thanks I’ll try that I’ll let you know what happens
 

Fender2004

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As said above, it’s probably just stuck though lack of use, if there is only one driver, and after the seat is set it probably doesn’t get moved.
 

Derick Mills

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Hi Mrscalex
I've tried putting pressure on the spindle still no joy it just spins, I think someone has tried this before as both spin it looks as though the mechanism is broken, but I've got to remove the seat as carpet is soaking and needs drying out , so I have a problem unless anyone on this site has any info please
 

Jjim

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Hi @maxz3
Is your car a M44 (twin cam) or M43 (single cam)? 1997 year could be either. Assumption seems to be it's the former, but worth checking as a new owner (for parts etc). Both engines are chain driven.
Don’t think your going to get a reply. The thread was started in 2014, and he hasn’t been on in 4yrs! =))
 

Derick Mills

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As said above, it’s probably just stuck though lack of use, if there is only one driver, and after the seat is set it probably doesn’t get moved.
Yes you are probley right but I still need to get the seat out to get the carpet out (wet through) only had the Z 3 months just started the project only the problem is what I said in the post to Mrscalex thanks
 

mrscalex

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Might be worth looking at this. If you really can't move it manually it's not good news. I would keep trying for now.

 

Derick Mills

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Have you found the source of your leak?
No not yet, the Z had been stood outside for 2years before i bought it ,then i drove it straight in my garage to start the restore.
I've changed all the discs, brakes, hand brake shoes and complete engine service runs sweet, didn't notice the water until i started to remove the seats, got the drivers side one out easy but then noticed the water as i stepped on the carpet, it is dry to the feel on the top of the carpet, so couldn't tell it was wet, so in answer to your question it could be coming from anywhere
 

Aceman

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One of the usual places for water ingress is the rubber seal at the top of the A pillers where the soft top meets. It can split allowing water to get inside the seal which acts like a tube directing the water down to the carpet. Apart from replacing the seal people have also cut up an old tyre inner tube and glues a patch over where it has split this also helps seal the soft top which sometimes doesn’t quite mate with the A pillar seal.
 

mrscalex

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No not yet, the Z had been stood outside for 2years before i bought it ,then i drove it straight in my garage to start the restore.
I've changed all the discs, brakes, hand brake shoes and complete engine service runs sweet, didn't notice the water until i started to remove the seats, got the drivers side one out easy but then noticed the water as i stepped on the carpet, it is dry to the feel on the top of the carpet, so couldn't tell it was wet, so in answer to your question it could be coming from anywhere
The point being I would get the ball rolling on locating the leak at the same time as working out how to remove the seat.

Removing the seat, even if you have to get physical with it could end up looking like a walk in the park compared to locating/fixing some of the places water can enter from. There are multiple points of entry and multiple fixing methods.

But the advice already given to start with the top of the windscreen pillars is spot-on as it's the simplest to resolve.

As regards removing the seat. I'm not aware of any other tricks to move it on the runners and thankfully not had this issue yet - winding by-hand yes but that failing no. I believe the next step will have to be something more aggressive like cutting the frame/runner to expose the bolts. And that is going to be nasty getting access. Using an angle-grinder or power tool inside could be dangerous. Hopefully someone can step-up with some further thoughts before you need to resort to that.
 

Derick Mills

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British Zeds
Joined
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Points
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RETFORD
Model of Z
2.8i
The point being I would get the ball rolling on locating the leak at the same time as working out how to remove the seat.

Removing the seat, even if you have to get physical with it could end up looking like a walk in the park compared to locating/fixing some of the places water can enter from. There are multiple points of entry and multiple fixing methods.

But the advice already given to start with the top of the windscreen pillars is spot-on as it's the simplest to resolve.

As regards removing the seat. I'm not aware of any other tricks to move it on the runners and thankfully not had this issue yet - winding by-hand yes but that failing no. I believe the next step will have to be something more aggressive like cutting the frame/runner to expose the bolts. And that is going to be nasty getting access. Using an angle-grinder or power tool inside could be dangerous. Hopefully someone can step-up with some further thoughts before you need to resort to that.
Thanks for the advice Mrscalex I will probably change the door and hood seals, this project is a big one , I knew this before I started the z needs a new top as this one is rotten the zip rear window is beyond repair with a hole in it
And when all is done a respray , but I'm not in a rush and will probably need help on many other things as I go along thanks
 
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