Screaming window

Dalek

Zorg Guru (III)
British Zeds
Joined
Jul 23, 2017
Points
145
Location
Highworth, Wiltshire
Model of Z
Z3 2.2i Auto
2 for each side, had mine from here. Worked a treat on mine, completely smooth going up and down now.
Thanks for that. I will order 4 and do both sides. Just one thing... when I opened the link I noticed that Z3 is not shown on the list of cars this part fits.
 

Jjim

Zorg Guru (IV)
British Zeds
Joined
Jul 21, 2017
Points
168
Location
Mansfield
Model of Z
1.9 Roadster
Replaced these on mine and now it works great :thumbsup:

Just got my other 2 Zeds to do, that's 4 more windows :facepalm:

I found this link useful to watch first -
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNsWGuwnbn0

When I did mine there was no washer at the bottom of the drivers side quarter window strut. Always had a problem on that side with the glass not fully sealing against the rubber when closed. This was probably the reason as it was not raised on a washer.
 

g8jka

Zorg Guru (V)
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Dec 5, 2011
Points
178
Location
Telford, Shropshire
Model of Z
Z3 - 2000 2.8 Roadster
Thanks for that. I will order 4 and do both sides. Just one thing... when I opened the link I noticed that Z3 is not shown on the list of cars this part fits.
Yes don't worry about that, part number for those I linked to is 51321938884, which matches up with those from the Z3. There is a massive list of BMW's these are used on.

You can do them without removing the windows also which most people don't realise, it's just a bit fiddly.
 

Dalek

Zorg Guru (III)
British Zeds
Joined
Jul 23, 2017
Points
145
Location
Highworth, Wiltshire
Model of Z
Z3 2.2i Auto
Yes don't worry about that, part number for those I linked to is 51321938884, which matches up with those from the Z3. There is a massive list of BMW's these are used on.

You can do them without removing the windows also which most people don't realise, it's just a bit fiddly.
Brilliant, thank you. Just to be sure I order the right amout, is it 2 or 4 per side?
 

DrWong

Zorg Guru (III)
Joined
May 8, 2017
Points
125
Model of Z
3.0i
I lubed the tracks and runners on my drivers' door last weekend after watching the vid linked above. The window wouldn't go down unless I helped it along with my hand, but it's buttery smooth now and the auto function is even back!

It was the first time I've stripped the door and I have to say, getting the door card seated back in under the rubber seal at the top was a proper clusterf*ck at first. I understand what the knack is now tho, so going to tackle the passenger door this weekend:thumbsup:
 
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Dalek

Zorg Guru (III)
British Zeds
Joined
Jul 23, 2017
Points
145
Location
Highworth, Wiltshire
Model of Z
Z3 2.2i Auto
I lubed the tracks and runners my drivers' door last weekend after watching the vid linked above. The window wouldn't go down unless I helped along it with my hand, but it's buttery smooth now and the auto function is even back!

It was the first time I've stripped the door and I have to say, getting the door card seated back in under the rubber seal at the top was a proper clusterf*ck at first. I understand what the knack is now tho, so going to tackle the passenger door this weekend:thumbsup:
Share the knack!!!! I am going to need it.
 

DrWong

Zorg Guru (III)
Joined
May 8, 2017
Points
125
Model of Z
3.0i
Well I was trying to get either the front or the back of the door card in first, with a view to subsequently easing the rest it in along the door afterwards. The rubber seal kept getting in the way with this approach tho.

What I ended up doing was lining the whole door card up against the lip in the door that's covered by the rubber seal. I then applied extra force along the top of the door card to compress the seal and allow the card to get past it, and once I'd done that compressing bit, I pushed the whole door card down in one go to seat it.

I've not explained it very well. But the key thing (for me) was to manhandle the door card back in all in one go, as trying to finesse either the front or the back end in first got me absolutely nowhere. Good luck! And make sure the door lock pin is lined up!:)
 

Dalek

Zorg Guru (III)
British Zeds
Joined
Jul 23, 2017
Points
145
Location
Highworth, Wiltshire
Model of Z
Z3 2.2i Auto
Well I was trying to get either the front or the back of the door card in first, with a view to subsequently easing the rest it in along the door afterwards. The rubber seal kept getting in the way with this approach tho.

What I ended up doing was lining the whole door card up against the lip in the door that's covered by the rubber seal. I then applied extra force along the top of the door card to compress the seal and allow the card to get past it, and once I'd done that compressing bit, I pushed the whole door card down in one go to seat it.

I've not explained it very well. But the key thing (for me) was to manhandle the door card back in all in one go, as trying to finesse either the front or the back end in first got me absolutely nowhere. Good luck! And make sure the door lock pin is lined up!:)
Thanks for the info. As soon as the clips arrive, and it warms up a bit, I will give it a go.
 

g8jka

Zorg Guru (V)
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Dec 5, 2011
Points
178
Location
Telford, Shropshire
Model of Z
Z3 - 2000 2.8 Roadster
Take the door cards off with the rubber seal still on the door card. When putting back on, if you position the door card at a angle with the front of the seal pointing down (towards engine) you can push it in at then front and slide it along whilst pushing down the seal into the door. When pushing forward and down you can line up the door lock pin. It’s much easier than trying to get the door card back onto the seal once it’s on the door.
 

Dalek

Zorg Guru (III)
British Zeds
Joined
Jul 23, 2017
Points
145
Location
Highworth, Wiltshire
Model of Z
Z3 2.2i Auto
Take the door cards off with the rubber seal still on the door card. When putting back on, if you position the door card at a angle with the front of the seal pointing down (towards engine) you can push it in at then front and slide it along whilst pushing down the seal into the door. When pushing forward and down you can line up the door lock pin. It’s much easier than trying to get the door card back onto the seal once it’s on the door.
Thanks for your help.
 

DrWong

Zorg Guru (III)
Joined
May 8, 2017
Points
125
Model of Z
3.0i
Take the door cards off with the rubber seal still on the door card. When putting back on, if you position the door card at a angle with the front of the seal pointing down (towards engine) you can push it in at then front and slide it along whilst pushing down the seal into the door. When pushing forward and down you can line up the door lock pin. It’s much easier than trying to get the door card back onto the seal once it’s on the door.
Yeah, this was broadly my original plan, but I'd left the rubber seal in place on the door. I never considered taking the seal off as well, I just tried to fight past it haha :bag:
 

DrWong

Zorg Guru (III)
Joined
May 8, 2017
Points
125
Model of Z
3.0i
Thanks for the info. As soon as the clips arrive, and it warms up a bit, I will give it a go.
I had replacement clips to hand but didn't need to use them in the end. I found lubing the tracks and runners was enough to cure my problem, thus saving me the further job of having to take out and reinstate the glass pieces.

The vapour barrier can be sufficiently peeled back from the top to get at the runners to grease them after the door card is removed. There's a thread on here where the barrier was peeled back with the door card in situ which required the bottom of the barrier to be peeled back. I understand that the bottom edge is the important one for preventing water ingress though, so I was trying to leave this line of the butyl sealant intact if I could.

If you're waiting for the clips to arrive, you may want to consider ordering some butyl tape in the meantime to refresh the seal when you come to do the job (if you haven't got some already). I ended up taking a heat gun on a low setting to parts of the old butyl to work it enough to recreate a seal. Ideally I would've had some new stuff to do the job properly but I got impatient. It was seeing your / this thread last weekend that prompted me to finally sort my windows out!:whistle:
 

gookah

Zorg Guru (IV)
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Dec 7, 2011
Points
170
Location
Shropshire
Model of Z
2.8 Z3
I had replacement clips to hand but didn't need to use them in the end. I found lubing the tracks and runners was enough to cure my problem, thus saving me the further job of having to take out and reinstate the glass pieces.
neither piece of glass has to come out to do the clips.They can be done with the glass in place.
 
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