Rust treatment

Davyhoogy

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'98 2.8 z3
What are people's experiences and recommendations for procedures and products in rust treatment/protection?
In this instance it's specifically the inner sills.
Light rust around jacking points.
Then would like to make sure it doesn't return. Same goes for doll covers when I get those.

Cheers
 

Nodzed

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There's loads of products out there my preference was to clean the surface rust off, then use Hammerite Kurust treatment, then respray with a zinc base paint, then Waxoyl. I put about 5 coats on letting it dry between coats, takes a while but worth it. I took the sills off and front wings, cleaned treated and protected the inner and outer sills, wing front and rear and the arches. The car smelt like a canoe for a few days though :whistle:
 

Davyhoogy

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Cheers fellas I'll have a look when I get home.
*sill covers not doll covers ha
 

mrscalex

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I've used Por 15 before but found it a but fussy. I'm going to use Epoxy Mastic EM121 next time as recommended to me by a classic car restoration workshop. The quality of their work is on another planet so who am I to argue. And I'm going to have a go at spraying it too.
 

Sean d

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Nothing will stop it, you can only slow the process, I have had the inner sills shot blasted to remove as much rust as possible, these will then be etch primed, primed and then under sealed, should last a few years.
You can see the pits left by the rust, not great pics though
rust1.jpg
rust.jpg
 

mrscalex

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Nothing will stop it, you can only slow the process, I have had the inner sills shot blasted to remove as much rust as possible, these will then be etch primed, primed and then under sealed, should last a few years.
You can see the pits left by the rust, not great pics though
View attachment 78899 View attachment 78900
So you'd never bother using any sort of rust encapsulation paint line Por-15 or Epoxy Mastic?
 

Sean d

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So you'd never bother using any sort of rust encapsulation paint line Por-15 or Epoxy Mastic?
No, we have tried various rust treatments over the years all to no avail, IMO you can only slow the process and it will eventually prevail.
 

Nodzed

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I agree you will only ever slow it down but if you treat a car from new you can considerably slow the process down I went to look at a 1965 ish ford Zodiac some years ago that had been treated from new and redone regularly. It was totally original and never been welded and was mint underneath in fact factory fresh, that said it had also always been garaged and had only covered around 65k in its life, but for a car of that period where rust was a real issue it was remarkable. The problem is most of us are treating cars where the decay has already started, so you are eventually on a hiding to nothing.
 

Sean d

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I agree you will only ever slow it down but if you treat a car from new you can considerably slow the process down I went to look at a 1965 ish ford Zodiac some years ago that had been treated from new and redone regularly. It was totally original and never been welded and was mint underneath in fact factory fresh, that said it had also always been garaged and had only covered around 65k in its life, but for a car of that period where rust was a real issue it was remarkable. The problem is most of us are treating cars where the decay has already started, so you are eventually on a hiding to nothing.
Absolutely Niall, prevention is key as their is no cure, wax oil a brand new car and it will last forever.
 

5harp3y

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My old mk1 golf was self preserving as it had so many small oil leaks that the underside was constantly being protected
 

pgunter

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I had my old MK IV Ford Zodiac treated with wax oil and a mix of old engine oil sprayed through the chassis.. only issue was when it was a hot day, the car used to drip from the underbody... best way to treat the rust though.
 
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