Replacing the original subwoofer in the oem enclosure and noticed the padding inside the sub box. Should I remove the padding or leave it for best results?
Replacing the original sub in the oem enclosure
- Thread starter Keith_Thompson
- Start date
It’s there to help acoustically deaden the enclosure and minimize internal reflections. If it’s still in good condition I’d leave it alone, but make sure it isn’t affecting the free travel of the speaker cone.
I actually took the whole sub assembly out and mounted a 6.5” dual voicecoil sub vertically to a couple of sandwiched pieces of 1/2” MDF, and I’m hoping to create a fiberglass enclosure that will bring out another 6.5” passive radiator facing directly forward through the existing grille. We’ll see how that goes, but it already sounds pretty good, even with no enclosure other than the (very leaky) plastic cavity
I actually took the whole sub assembly out and mounted a 6.5” dual voicecoil sub vertically to a couple of sandwiched pieces of 1/2” MDF, and I’m hoping to create a fiberglass enclosure that will bring out another 6.5” passive radiator facing directly forward through the existing grille. We’ll see how that goes, but it already sounds pretty good, even with no enclosure other than the (very leaky) plastic cavity
Last week my sub blew and I am thinking of replacing/upgrading my OEM subwoofer but I want to keep the stock esthetic and the center grill.
Has anyone got any ideas? On Facebook club, a guy proposed the Memphis Audio PRX624 that he manged to fit with only a bit of edge grinding in the stock enclosure, but that sub seems to be in backorder and mainly for the US market
Found this Amazon.com: Skar Audio EVL-65 D2 6.5" 400 Watt Max Power Dual 2 Ohm Car Subwoofer : Electronics which might fit but I am not too sure...
Has anyone got any ideas? On Facebook club, a guy proposed the Memphis Audio PRX624 that he manged to fit with only a bit of edge grinding in the stock enclosure, but that sub seems to be in backorder and mainly for the US market
Found this Amazon.com: Skar Audio EVL-65 D2 6.5" 400 Watt Max Power Dual 2 Ohm Car Subwoofer : Electronics which might fit but I am not too sure...
There are two sizes 6.5" and 6", which one did you mean fits nicely?
You mean like this one https://www.thompsonsltd.co.uk/work...600-watt-dual-voice-coil-4-ohm-subwoofer.html ? Haven't heard of the brand before but if it fits nicely...
Or this one? https://www.amazon.com/Car-Vehicle-Subwoofer-Audio-Speaker/dp/B0071HY42K
Last edited:
although its out of stockTry and see if you can find the same model elsewhere outside amazon
From the related I also found the Pyle Max Pro 6.5 Inch 600 Watt Small 4 Ohm Subwoofer which seems similar but requires more mounting depth
Otherwise, I am also thinking of getting this: https://masori.de/en/collections/6-...comprt-cwrt672-cwrt674?variant=40486124617907 but haven't yet decided...
If you cant find your 2 x 2ohm driver, you can remove the drone cone assuming its not HK, that one is ported. and fit a second driver where the drone cone was, out of phase with the other, both 4 ohm, get a bit of punch that way..
Mine was broken when I got it, everything was rebuilt but the evidence suggested it originally just popped off, I assume your talking about the cover...
Yes mine was broken and glued on, but as I mentioned, it seemed from the evidence that it basically clips on. But if I am right and I think I am, the thing is likely very brittle as the remains of mine was..hopefully someone else here can confirm my assumption..
I have made several attempts to get the posts to let go. I have three different trim tools and can feel where posts go into the metal crossbar. I have tried to pry from below posts and from above the plastic ring on the post… no luck. I have put two pry tools in to pry against each other like a spreader tool… also it defies me.
Anybody got technique or tool that might release barbs…?
Anybody got technique or tool that might release barbs…?
I have solved part 1. The barbs can be relaxed with 1/4 socket from behind the speaker cover. Once you get left (driver side) disengagement permits access to the other pin on right side with flat style pliers.
i cannot get back tabs to release… anyone have a close up view to share?
i cannot get back tabs to release… anyone have a close up view to share?
Attachments
As I thought, clips on.. I guess this is why all my clips were broken off, somebody did not have the patience you do. have you seen this..
I didnt break this one but maybe the image helps @Rodders67 , you can see what happens if you force it...rear passenger tab hole is broken off..
