Reggie in at Zed Shed Midlands Ltd

That should be fine then Andy, you'll probably not get such a large increase under load but at 13.6 no load at idle is spot on. Still worth checking under load though. :)

Tony.
 
Joking Dave :bag:
Hi @hard top did a battery test it was 12.38 when sitting, with the alternator charging at 14.6, the battery went up to 12.63.Then did a parasitic test and 0.12 - 0.14, I did this on mine and it is 0.19, with no battery issues.

So I was wondering if the problem is the starter motor solenoid or the starter sticking or failing to properly engage, the car is fine if used a couple of times week. This usually has the starter just clicking, possibly then draining the battery if the solenoid contacts are are sticking closed.

I have no idea how I can test a temperamental starter motor, did say if it happens again give mw a shout and I can re-test the battery see what load is being drawn.

Any ideas would be good chaps.

andy
did you do a parasitic check after locking the car and opening closing the Windows a few times? Could be a temperamental switch.
 
Joking Dave :bag:

did you do a parasitic check after locking the car and opening closing the Windows a few times? Could be a temperamental switch.


Hi, did another parasitic test windows, doors etc and the same 0.14 so no difference. With the alternator under load, everything on only kicking out 13.83, so I assume there is a problem with the charging, what do you reckon?

Andy
 
It's a little low at that Andy, but on an every day car should be enough.

Tony.
 
It's a little low at that Andy, but on an every day car should be enough.

Tony.

One strange thing was about to leave @Tracy Dee when my car would not start, the dash went into self test mode and that was it for a while. I have had a cam sensor position a fault. So I guess the sensor is on the way out, would that cause the dash to go to self test or do I have another problem? After a while the car started but the smell of fuel was everywhere.

Andy
 
So with every conceivable electrical item on full blast it's serviceable ?
I don't often use more than the radio especially in summer.
I do hope so.
Many thanks again Andy.
Now just got to get that diff bush fitted.
Excellent service from euro car parts with the poxerflex diff bush ordered 4 30 on Saturday arrived today Monday 10.30 am.
 
One strange thing was about to leave @Tracy Dee when my car would not start, the dash went into self test mode and that was it for a while. I have had a cam sensor position a fault. So I guess the sensor is on the way out, would that cause the dash to go to self test or do I have another problem? After a while the car started but the smell of fuel was everywhere.

Andy
My 2.0 had the inlet cam sensor pack up and it struggled to start and consequently there was a strong smell of fuel so that's likely that, but as for it going into a self-test, that's a new one on me Andy.

Tony.
 
My 2.0 had the inlet cam sensor pack up and it struggled to start and consequently there was a strong smell of fuel so that's likely that, but as for it going into a self-test, that's a new one on me Andy.

Tony.
Cam sensor wouldn't cause a self test. As Tony said the full load voltage may be a little low but still high enough to charge the battery. It's beginning to point to the electronics themselves worryingly. Am not familiar with the Z3 (nor the Z4 yet to be honest) but, random power drain, not starting and random issues like that start to make me wonder. Anybody any thoughts and potential modules that might cause this?
 
Just a thought to add to this Tracy's battery issue, it might be possible that part of the rectifier in the altenator, i.e. one of the diodes has gone short,this could cause a smaller charge voltage and a possible leak back to ground when the motor is not running. But getting 14.6 V when on fast idle looks like alls well.Confusion rules.
 
Just a thought to add to this Tracy's battery issue, it might be possible that part of the rectifier in the altenator, i.e. one of the diodes has gone short,this could cause a smaller charge voltage and a possible leak back to ground when the motor is not running. But getting 14.6 V when on fast idle looks like alls well.Confusion rules.
I'd thought that a little earlier - it could be just some muck inside the alternator that's allowing current to leak (occasionally). Maybe some oil or grime that conducts when its wet or theres moisture in the air. Grasping at straws now though.
 
This definitely is a strange situation especially with all the readings being pretty much within spec. But something is killing the battery and needs to be found for @Tracy Dee sanity. Thanks @windym for providing such good info! JIM
 
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