This stuff looks good. I'll probably get some to keep in the garage for future jobs.I'd prefer to use tape.
I'm guessing 2 rolls to cover it?
This stuff looks good. I'll probably get some to keep in the garage for future jobs.I'd prefer to use tape.
I'm guessing 2 rolls to cover it?
Yes that's the stuff I used, and you are correct I replaced the two runs of sealer one to bodywork and one to hood with the frame inbetween.@TaffZee was this the sort of stuff you put into the part where the hood fabric connects to the frame? (I think you split the frame and refreshed the part where the hood fabric is joined to the frame in addition to the frame to body join).
When I removed my top, I was luckey that the old caulk came off in large pieces. I pulled off several sections at a time. I don't remember what I used to clean off the remaiining bits but most of the rest had to be scraped off. I used a 3M ribbon of tape that fulfilled the qualities of the sealant that I needed I didn't realize that the gold bolts were of different sizes until I had removed almost all of them. Up to that point, I had not taked notice of which ones went where so I had to try to figure it out upon re-assembley. I had started to staple the new roof to the plastic band and was three quarters done when I thought to use stainless steel staples. With all the work involved, I felt it was worth it to remove the ones I had used and go out and purchase the stainless steel ones. I feel better now that I did this. I had started to put it all together with the rear center bolts but when I got to the ends near the door, I couldn't get the bolts to line up with the holes even though the first bolts were put in loosely. And if I remember properly, there are smaller screws at either end of the hoop that seemed there would be no way to reinstall unless I started with them first. I had to remove the driver's seat to be comfortable getting the back bolts as @TaffZee mentioned. Jim and I are about the same size and it's almost impossible to work trying to lean over the seats. I would have taked out the passenger seat but I couldn't get the rear inside track bolt out. Make sure to clean out the drain holes as was mentioned above by another member. I opened up a wire hanger and ran it down through the hole then put a nozzle on my compressed air hose and blew it out. I poured in some water as a test to see if it would drain properly. Good luck with it......................................FrankieSo after some help from those of you that have done this. I need to remove the sealing frame and refresh the butyl sealant.
I've found this fantastic blog detailing the procedure to remove and refit an entire hood and he deals with the sealing frame bit (I just need to do the frame seal): https://webspace.ringling.edu/~dplassma/str/str.html
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In this blog he says the frame broke upon removal as it gets brittle and needs to be flexed to come out.
Anyone on here done this and how has your experience been - anyone just loosened it to refresh the butyl seal?
Also wondering if the when those who have had new soft tops do they do any thing with this frame?
See 5:20 on tape....the opposite of me............Regarding removing the butyl, I found this recommendation on a Ford forum, sounds like it'll do the job:
Methylene Chloride will melt the monkey grunt off of year trim like a hot sun melting ice. You should be able to get this chlorated alcohol at any parts store, or at a glass install shop because this is what they use to clean the surfaces these adhesive strips go on to begin with. (http://Methylene Chloride)
BE VERY CAREFUL TO USE METHYLENE CHOLRIDE OUT SIDE DO NOT BREATH IN THE EVAPORATE IT CAN KILL YOU!!!! A LITTLE GOES A LONG, LONG WAY.
And available through eBay ?! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292206789822