Rear subframe overhaul

Stevo7682

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Awesome stuff, very inspiring stuff mate. Thanks for documenting and sharing:thumbsup:

Re: the comment about cutting the exhaust, what's the basis of this and where do you normally need to cut it? You managed to get away without having to do this, right? Cheers
The general reason for cutting the exhaust is the joint further forward is in a relatively awkward place and the studs and nuts tend to be rusted solid
 

Antm72

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Awesome stuff, very inspiring stuff mate. Thanks for documenting and sharing:thumbsup:

Re: the comment about cutting the exhaust, what's the basis of this and where do you normally need to cut it? You managed to get away without having to do this, right? Cheers
I believe alot the exhaust is cut just beyond the subfame so it can drop. Some zeds have exhausts that are in more than one piece so they can just undo. Mine is just a one piece and i didn't want to cut and join it and risk a leak after paying to have it built. I did go back to the exhaust builders to add a flange but its not possible as the middle box falls to close to the subframe and it would have been a waste of time in my case.
 

Bozzy

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Top work Ant, you're a brave man, that job would scare me witless :thumbsup:.
 

Mazza

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Thanks Tony its all practice so we can nail it in aday @ zedshed midlands :thumbsup:
And which day would that be then??????? I could provide a practice car if you need one :whistle:=))

With regard to removing the exhaust, On mine, the exhaust has a spring loaded flange connection about midway, so I’m thinking I would only need remove the rear section.

Look forward to seeing more photos
 

Antm72

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Awesome stuff, very inspiring stuff mate. Thanks for documenting and sharing:thumbsup:

Re: the comment about cutting the exhaust, what's the basis of this and where do you normally need to cut it? You managed to get away without having to do this, right? Cheers
Some zeds have an exhaust that is in sections so can be split to help so the subframe can clear it.
In my case its one piece and having paid to have it built i did not want to cut it to possibly gain aleak.
I did return it to see if i could flange it but it would have still been in the way so no point in my case. So removed it in one.
 

Antm72

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Top work Ant, you're a brave man, that job would scare me witless :thumbsup:.
Not as daunting as it seems Steve it looks drastic but its only a few bolts in reality.
Always willing to assist should the job be needed :thumbsup:
 

Lee

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And which day would that be then??????? I could provide a practice car if you need one :whistle:=))

With regard to removing the exhaust, On mine, the exhaust has a spring loaded flange connection about midway, so I’m thinking I would only need remove the rear section.

Look forward to seeing more photos
Just as a side note you can actually remove the subframe without removing the exhaust, sometimes this is the prefered method if the exhaust flanges look past it.
 

t-tony

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Guess it's a lower and slide out above the exhaust then Lee?

Tony.
 

t-tony

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Antm72

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Just as a side note you can actually remove the subframe without removing the exhaust, sometimes this is the prefered method if the exhaust flanges look past it.
I was lucky again not a spec of rust at the manifolds not even mild surface rust so they all undid with ease.
I had thought about leaving it on like we discussed lee but i wanted everything out so i have space for all the work with out having obsticles.
Its certainly workable with it in place but may need another pair of hands to assist when removing :thumbsup:
 
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Lee

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Guess it's a lower and slide out above the exhaust then Lee?



Tony.
I just loosen the exhaust hangers so it sits lower. Then remove one swing arm with half shaft at a time. That then leaves just the beam and diff in. I then undo one pin on either side and lower with the jack. Still just as simple. It’s more an extra option if you find the exhaust tired.
 

Jack Ratt

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I reckon ZRoadster could compile a really comprehensive workshop manual from all our "projects"

It would be an awesome uni project for someone studying auto engineering
 

Antm72

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So had to move my week off after a lousy weekend weather wise have had a crisp sunny dry day to get stuck in.
Started by sorting out the tank straps, as clean as my car is underneath these are well and truly shot.
Been a rattle i think looking at the cost effective Oem manner it was fixed :ymdevil: Nice bit of pipe :banghead: The smaller strap snaped in two when unbolted it was rusted through the other although bad was intact.
20180319_113942.jpg

Nice touch that pipe huh !:D
As said unbolting it just snapped.

20180319_114040.jpg

Relined the new straps with neoprene and got the tank to fit nicely.
20180319_115328.jpg


20180319_185440.jpg

Reftted and much better.
Had @t-tony advise my rear brake pipes last mot so set about sorting them out. Never fixed one before so thought a nother reasin to buy a few new tools and have ago.
I removed the lines one at a time cutting back under the car the pipes along the bottom are perfect so seemed a good place to start.
I used the original pipes to get all the bends done which in the end where by hand as the tools radius was to large.
 
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t-tony

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I get a lot of satisfaction making brake pipes which, when fitted, look as though they belong on the car. Some of the monstrosities I see on cars make me cringe, adequate at best.

Tony.
 

Antm72

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A few photos of the pipe work...
New joints..
20180319_185337.jpg

Pipes re routed as per oem..

20180319_185350.jpg
20180319_185356.jpg


20180319_185413.jpg

20180319_185422.jpg


Fitted the new braided hoses and as again per t-tony thread needed washes as the holes to the body are too big all though the swing arm ones are fine.
Opted for square washers and these fitted up a treat.
20180319_185430.jpg
.
So now one to the subframe the car now ready to recieve it back...
I started by removing the old beam followed by the old swing arm bushes.
These bar one pressed out fine and over all where not too bad just perished to the ends.
The acquired new tool a brick :whistle: helped keep the press square and the popped out fine.
Have replaced them all with RevShift polys which are nice and soft unlike some others.

20180319_110336.jpg


So i have had a beam refurbed already so its been a swap out so new bushes fitted already. I have opted for RevShift ones these give a 12mm lift on the beam to reduce rear camber.

20180319_185505.jpg


A little different as you can see, so to allow for the lift and keep prop alignement you drop the diff.
This is done by changing the bolts for studs and fitting a 12mm Spacer.

20180319_185522.jpg

20180319_185530.jpg

Everything has been cleaned and bolted together i will paint it when its in. I have done the top of the diff and will sort the rest when hung in the car.
20180319_185918.jpg

Diff cover cleaned up.

20180319_185929.jpg

Again will paint this when in and swing arms prepped ready.

20180319_185947.jpg

A bit more cleaning and prepping the surfaces and i hope to get it back in the car tomorrow :thumbsup:
Had an enjoyable day you canna beat a day with the spanners:)
 
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Antm72

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I get a lot of satisfaction making brake pipes which, when fitted, look as though they belong on the car. Some of the monstrosities I see on cars make me cringe, adequate at best.

Tony.
Totally agree some people/ garages just bung them in. The tools and parts worked out cheaper than a garage anyway.:thumbsup:
 
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