The 6mm Allen bolts seem to have some locktight or similar on them. Gentle heating with a gas torch softens this and makes it a bit easier to remove them. Just be careful as you are fairly close to the fuel tank/lines.
Rear End Removal - How To?
- Thread starter Faheem
- Start date
It's very achievable now, with all the info we've got collectively we've been doing the subframe builds in half a day. That's all out new bushes and refitting & replacing everything as we go. Only we haven't been doing is repainting everything otherwise its a two day job.
Everything has come out with ease including the 22mm nut. Everything bar the 4 allen bolts. 
I've only tried removing one, hammerred the socket repeatedly until i thought it had seated correctly and then got my breaker bar on it but the bolt didnt didnt break loose instead the socket moved in the head of the bolt. I dont want to try any of the others for fear that I'll do the same. What are my options now?
I've only tried removing one, hammerred the socket repeatedly until i thought it had seated correctly and then got my breaker bar on it but the bolt didnt didnt break loose instead the socket moved in the head of the bolt. I dont want to try any of the others for fear that I'll do the same. What are my options now?
LOTS More Penetrating fluid and some heat ( with care!) , on both. Try removing the other one first. It may give more room to work on the first one.
Sometimes, and not sure with hex drives, it helps to try to tighten the bolt and then undo it.
Can you get a stilson or molegrips on the head, then tap it to shock it loose?
Sometimes, and not sure with hex drives, it helps to try to tighten the bolt and then undo it.
Can you get a stilson or molegrips on the head, then tap it to shock it loose?
More heat, more heat.....BANG.....less heat less heat
"Easy out" if you round them
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- Dec 5, 2011
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- 175
Loosen everything up to remove the rear beam, arms, diff etc today.
Those allen bolts are really awkward.
Those allen bolts are really awkward.
@spurs fan in a coupe everything has been broken loose besides these last 2 allen bolts.
I gave up for the day at around 4PM and came back home (cars in my little garage, mile away from home) so will have another crack this weekend.
I gave up for the day at around 4PM and came back home (cars in my little garage, mile away from home) so will have another crack this weekend.
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- Dec 5, 2011
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BMW budget bucket seat
Longlife exhaust
Longlife exhaust
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I made it easy, when I had the outer sills off I ground them back so they where flush with the captive bolt and removed whilst hot
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- Dec 5, 2011
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Good luck mate, my post should have said that I loosened all bolts off today from a breaker, really not a nice job
Rear beam and front steering rack off on Wednesday (hopefully)
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- Oct 19, 2014
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- Model of Z
- 2.2i Sport
Wishing you luck with that, I know mine took longer than I'd hoped. Those little bolts are a bu55er. And don't forget the anti roll bar links, left mine attached to the sub-frame and undid the brackets to the body since I was changing the bushes anyway. If you use the Powerflex bushes (other makes are available) it makes putting it all back together a lot easier than having to press oem bushes back in, but it does make a bit more noise when driving the car.
Did you grease the poly bushes before inserting them.
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2014
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- 174
- Model of Z
- 2.2i Sport
Loads of grease, still probably not enough. What I was meaning was that the diff whine (seems a common thing with these) is louder if you use the stiffer bushes. Not unbearable by any means, don't notice it with the roof down, and certainly wouldn't say not to use the Powerflex type bushes, just be ready for a bit more noise. Roof down and stereo up, that's the way to do it. Anti social? Moi?
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- Dec 5, 2011
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Missed the jack but it’s out!
Good to have a spare. That don't look in bad nick either.