Thank you. It's certainly a 'rolling restoration' and definetely on a budget, although I'm hoping to sort out the tatty bodywork this summer. In the meantime I'm just regularly covering the rusty bits in clear Bilt-Hamber wax.
Project YouWhyWhy
- Thread starter backseateducation
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Well I really just thought I'd had some luck! Took the MAF out to clean it and as I was putting it back I discovered that when I fitted the standard airbox I had neglected to connect the sensor (IAT?). Aha, thought I gleefully, there is the cause of the problem! But of course.......it made no bleedin' difference
So after refitting it and cleaning the MAF, the car still took half a dozen good cranks to start and idles as lumpy as an old mattress.
I now have a code referring to the O2 sensor heater circuit bank 1, (which I'm sure I've only just had replaced), misfires on each cylinder and the 'multiple Misfire' code. All these codes can be cleared by my basic reader. I have tried and tried to find a vac leak with no luck. Previous cars I've had with O2 sensor issues have generally continued to run ok, or stop altogether. I'm getting pretty much to my wit's end with this now, especially as when you actually drive the car it's fine.
So after refitting it and cleaning the MAF, the car still took half a dozen good cranks to start and idles as lumpy as an old mattress.
I now have a code referring to the O2 sensor heater circuit bank 1, (which I'm sure I've only just had replaced), misfires on each cylinder and the 'multiple Misfire' code. All these codes can be cleared by my basic reader. I have tried and tried to find a vac leak with no luck. Previous cars I've had with O2 sensor issues have generally continued to run ok, or stop altogether. I'm getting pretty much to my wit's end with this now, especially as when you actually drive the car it's fine.
I think I may have found something. While the airbox was on the bench, I started the car and it ran just as badly. But I suddenly realised while the engine was running that the MAF was also on the bench, attached to the airbox. So should I now suspect the MAF unit?
It looks that way, but don't buy a cheap one or you will be buying another. They usually don't work or don't last.
Tony.
Tony.
Thanks Tony. It's the weather for driving it now!
Well I've got a big pile of brake parts here now, so I can get on with that over the weekend.
Sadly I don't think I will have the MAF in time as despite the seller having a .co.uk website address, I had an email yesterday saying it had just been despatched from Germany. Miracles do happen!
Sadly I don't think I will have the MAF in time as despite the seller having a .co.uk website address, I had an email yesterday saying it had just been despatched from Germany. Miracles do happen!
More brake-related fun.
Just been in the garage to sort out all the new bits in preparation for cracking on tomorrow. The discs, pads and caliper I've been sent are all supposedly standard items, based on the reg number. However the discs fitted are vented and much wider than the ones I've been sent. I guess the brakes may have been upgraded for 2.8 litre items? If so, I guess the caliper is useless as it will not be wide enough to fit over the vented discs.
I have contacted previous owner @Brian H to see if he made any modifications in this area, but the moment progress has come to a grinding (no pun intended!) halt!
Just been in the garage to sort out all the new bits in preparation for cracking on tomorrow. The discs, pads and caliper I've been sent are all supposedly standard items, based on the reg number. However the discs fitted are vented and much wider than the ones I've been sent. I guess the brakes may have been upgraded for 2.8 litre items? If so, I guess the caliper is useless as it will not be wide enough to fit over the vented discs.
I have contacted previous owner @Brian H to see if he made any modifications in this area, but the moment progress has come to a grinding (no pun intended!) halt!
Well I've managed to push the piston back, but it doesn't seem like it wants to come out again. Looks like I need another new caliper!
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Caliper sorted.
Now just got to decide whether I return the incorrect parts, or just sell them on.
Are the brake pads I bought for the original 1.9 caliper (for solid disc), compatible with the caliper I actually need (for vented disc)? I can't really send them back now as I've fitted them to the seized caliper as they appeared to be the same.
Now just got to decide whether I return the incorrect parts, or just sell them on.
Are the brake pads I bought for the original 1.9 caliper (for solid disc), compatible with the caliper I actually need (for vented disc)? I can't really send them back now as I've fitted them to the seized caliper as they appeared to be the same.
Well my car still doesn't go or stop , but I did get some good news today with a photo in the BMW CC magazine
, but I did get some good news today with a photo in the BMW CC magazine
Well.....
I got home from work to find my new MAF had arrived. Fitted it along with a new paper air filter. And.......the bloody thing is no different! Ages cranking from cold and idle as rough as before. And just to top it off, its now throwing a MAF code where there wasn't before!
Before anyone asks, I couldn't stretch to what places are asking for a Bosch MAF (in fact I've spent so much trying to sort this car out I'm pretty much broke!), but surely a new part is a new part? Or am I being naive?
So I'm stuck in the same place as before. Hard to start until warm, possibly overfuelling, rough idle, can't find a vaccum leak. Runs fine once you put a few revs on. New plugs, leads, coil, cam sensor, idle valve, O2 sensor, MAF. I've tried leaving the battery off for half an hour.
So on Saturday I'll fit my new caliper and go for a run. Until I can afford to get it back into the garage again I think I'm just going to have to put up with it.
I got home from work to find my new MAF had arrived. Fitted it along with a new paper air filter. And.......the bloody thing is no different! Ages cranking from cold and idle as rough as before. And just to top it off, its now throwing a MAF code where there wasn't before!
Before anyone asks, I couldn't stretch to what places are asking for a Bosch MAF (in fact I've spent so much trying to sort this car out I'm pretty much broke!), but surely a new part is a new part? Or am I being naive?
So I'm stuck in the same place as before. Hard to start until warm, possibly overfuelling, rough idle, can't find a vaccum leak. Runs fine once you put a few revs on. New plugs, leads, coil, cam sensor, idle valve, O2 sensor, MAF. I've tried leaving the battery off for half an hour.
So on Saturday I'll fit my new caliper and go for a run. Until I can afford to get it back into the garage again I think I'm just going to have to put up with it.
Secondhand but working Bosch MAF now being sent to me by a kind friend. I'll be very interested to see if it does in the end cure the problem. I appreciate you guys thoughts and advice about what quality level of parts to buy, I just can't always afford to do it. At least I can send the new one back if it does turn out to be duff.
That’s the only problem what what other members have experienced with MAFs unless it oem they just don’t work or fail very prematurely. I know it’s a pain with some prices as I’m being held to M tax on tops mounts. Hopefully the part due in will cure the problem well done for sticking at with it, it’ll pay off in the end for plenty of smiles per mile.
Cheers man!
I hope so, I love the car and will get to the bottom of it one way or the other.
I hope so, I love the car and will get to the bottom of it one way or the other.
Well that's better - with use of a proper hose clamp, it hardly needed any bleeding at all. I might do it again once I'm able to take the car for a short drive and bed the pads in a little. I'll see how it feels.
Discovered that the front antiroll bar has been fitted with Powerflex bushes too.
I also found what appears to be a broken earth strap - the wire inside has virtually turned to powder. It's obviously not a BMW part, but would there have been one there originally, or can I just leave it off?
Discovered that the front antiroll bar has been fitted with Powerflex bushes too.
I also found what appears to be a broken earth strap - the wire inside has virtually turned to powder. It's obviously not a BMW part, but would there have been one there originally, or can I just leave it off?
Earth strap is cheap to replace, a forum member sent me some spare cable they had
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2011
- Points
- 175
Let me know if you need an earth strap
I’ll pop one in the post, DM me your address
I’ll pop one in the post, DM me your address
Fantastic thanks so much. I wonder if this is the root of some of the electrical issues I've had.
Came home from work to find my secondhand Bosch MAF had arrived. Fitted it with some trepidation and.......
it's exactly the same. Won't start without loads of cranking, won't idle (slightly better when warm), cuts out when driving, exhaust stinks of fuel, MAF fault code comes back after clearing with code reader.
I'm at a loss, the summer is here and I can't use it! I'm supposed to be at Bicester Scramble this weekend
I can't imagine that missing earth strap is to blame? I can't afford to spend any more money on the car, so it'll just have to sit until I have some spare cash to get someone to look at it.
it's exactly the same. Won't start without loads of cranking, won't idle (slightly better when warm), cuts out when driving, exhaust stinks of fuel, MAF fault code comes back after clearing with code reader.
I'm at a loss, the summer is here and I can't use it! I'm supposed to be at Bicester Scramble this weekend
I can't imagine that missing earth strap is to blame? I can't afford to spend any more money on the car, so it'll just have to sit until I have some spare cash to get someone to look at it.
Most of my experience is with other (non beemer) cars. I've never looked at how my starter motor is wired so I'm probably talking complete scroll-locks., but, in my mind, missing earth strap can stop the starter cranking properly coz it's getting v+ direct from battery via starter solonoid but earths through the body of the starter to engine block then to the chassis via that earth strap. If strap is missing then, when cranking, all that current tries to find earth via other cables which can't handle the current and you have strange burned out wires and other stuff.
But once engine is running it ought to keep going. You say it won't idle. Exhaust stinks of unburned fuel etc. In the old days before all the computer m'larky I'd be looking at ignition coil, electronic ignition potentially breaking down so frequently missing a beat and blowing unburned fuel into the exhaust.
But all the computer m'larky is supposed to monitor and diagnose all this stuff. So I haven't got a clue what I'm talking about.
But once engine is running it ought to keep going. You say it won't idle. Exhaust stinks of unburned fuel etc. In the old days before all the computer m'larky I'd be looking at ignition coil, electronic ignition potentially breaking down so frequently missing a beat and blowing unburned fuel into the exhaust.
But all the computer m'larky is supposed to monitor and diagnose all this stuff. So I haven't got a clue what I'm talking about.