Pair of 2001 facelift Headlamp units required please.

Jules Morris

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Good morning,
My Z3 has failed MOT on both headlamps as both self levelling motors have corroded and seized. Before I consider new units does anyone have a used pair for sale with levelling motors in full operating condition?
Thanks
Jules
VIN is WBACN12090LK15745
 

Lee

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Good morning,
My Z3 has failed MOT on both headlamps as both self levelling motors have corroded and seized. Before I consider new units does anyone have a used pair for sale with levelling motors in full operating condition?
Thanks
Jules
VIN is WBACN12090LK15745
Those self levelling units quarter turn and unhook to remove. Could be an easier option if no one has any lights.
 

mrscalex

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If you drop me a PM as a reminder I am going to look through my headlamp collection tonight for a pair for my own current restoration project. I have a few and would be happy to sell the motors from a pre-facelift pair if I have them. The motors are the only item with any value on those things really.
 

Jules Morris

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That’s very kind of you! I didn’t realise the pre facelift motors were the same as mine?
Regards
Jules
 

Stevo7682

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@Jules Morris the pre face-lift and face-lift lights are essentially the same bar some minor mods ( assuming Amber indicators) the main difference is the rings round the lights are black on the pre face-lift and chrome on the face-lift.
The front side lights on pre face-lift are built into the main beam but on a face-lift uses the front bumper marker lamps as side light and side light part on lamp blanked off but this can be modified for the quad side light look .

This is the pre face-lift lamp
Screenshot_20210706-144812_Gallery.jpg

And the face-lift one
Screenshot_20210706-145049_Gallery.jpg


Stephen.
 

Lee

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@Jules Morris the pre face-lift and face-lift lights are essentially the same bar some minor mods ( assuming Amber indicators) the main difference is the rings round the lights are black on the pre face-lift and chrome on the face-lift.
The front side lights on pre face-lift are built into the main beam but on a face-lift uses the front bumper marker lamps as side light and side light part on lamp blanked off but this can be modified for the quad side light look .

This is the pre face-lift lamp
View attachment 189181
And the face-lift one
View attachment 189183

Stephen.
Don't forget a key difference :) , the Pre facelift lenses are Glass and the facelift plastic, so care with really bright bulbs.
 

Jules Morris

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@Jules Morris the pre face-lift and face-lift lights are essentially the same bar some minor mods ( assuming Amber indicators) the main difference is the rings round the lights are black on the pre face-lift and chrome on the face-lift.
The front side lights on pre face-lift are built into the main beam but on a face-lift uses the front bumper marker lamps as side light and side light part on lamp blanked off but this can be modified for the quad side light look .

This is the pre face-lift lamp
View attachment 189181
And the face-lift one
View attachment 189183

Stephen.
Thanks Stevo, that’s very helpful and may help relieve the migraine that my MOT inspector has developed!🙈
 

Eddie Zedder

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It begs the question why it would fail the MOT on corroded motors, the headlight adjustment screws aren't connected to them.

I've never seen my MOT man check that the level adjustment works on any of my cars.
 

Eddie Zedder

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t-tony

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If fitted, levelling devices have to be tested, if they're not fitted, different matter.

4.1.5. Levelling devices
Make sure any manual headlamp levelling devices (driver controls) work by:

  • switching on the dipped beam headlamps
  • operating the manual levelling device
  • checking that the headlamp beams move up and down
  • returning the levelling device control to its original position
Vehicles with high intensity discharge (HID) or LED dipped beam headlamps may be fitted with a suspension or headlamp self-levelling system. If these systems have been fitted, they must work.

Sometimes it is not easy to determine if the self-levelling systems work. In such cases you should give the benefit of the doubt.

You can identify HID headlamps from:

  • ‘DCR’ mark on the headlamp lens or body
  • an igniter module or inverter behind the headlamp
  • taking a few seconds to reach full intensity
  • a bluish tinge to the light
HID headlamps use high voltage. You should take care when inspecting these headlamps.

The check of headlamp levelling devices does not apply to motor caravans.

Tony.
 

mrscalex

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It begs the question why it would fail the MOT on corroded motors, the headlight adjustment screws aren't connected to them.

I've never seen my MOT man check that the level adjustment works on any of my cars.
Think you might be confusing two things. There are 3 types of positioning associated with the headlamps. (1) Physical fit of the whole unit within the aperture - not in the MOT (2) Beam pattern adjusted by the knurled knobs - in the MOT 3) Height adjustment of the beams from the dash switch via the motor in question here. Used to adjust fall of the light to compensate for car ride height depending on the weight being carried in the car - in the MOT.
 

t-tony

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When they first introduced the leveling device as a part of the test you have to make sure that they "worked" but also that at the highest position they would pass the test for height. ie you could not have the lights aimed higher than the upper limit.
Next they said you had to test the aim as the car was presented for test, IF the light aim was too high you were then allowed to lower it by the levelling adjuster to pass (if it would adjust).
Then came the self levelling test which more "modern" cars were equipped with ( after the fitting of HID and LED units) which occurs as you turn the ignition on, the lights go up and back down.

Life is never dull as an MOT Tester.

The two headlights do not even have to be mounted at exactly the same height, if you read the tester's manual. Along with all the other lights they have to be roughly the same height and the same distance inboard from the sides of the vehicle.

Headlight adjuster motors have a rod which connects to the reflector inside the headlight via a ball and socket arrangement. The rod has in the end of it (usually) a Phillips slot to allow a coarse adjustment before adjusting the "fine tune" adjusters on the headlight itself.

Tony.
 

Eddie Zedder

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Thanks folks, well you learn something new everyday.

I've had most of my MOT's done by the same guy for at least 20 years, with me in the car operating the switches. I can say the only times I've had to check the level device is when the aim has been low and he has told me to make sure it was on the zero setting. Once confirmed, he then adjusts the alignment, issues a fail for the aim and then a pass (assuming everything else is ok).
 

mrscalex

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Thanks folks, well you learn something new everyday.

I've had most of my MOT's done by the same guy for at least 20 years, with me in the car operating the switches. I can say the only times I've had to check the level device is when the aim has been low and he has told me to make sure it was on the zero setting. Once confirmed, he then adjusts the alignment, issues a fail for the aim and then a pass (assuming everything else is ok).
For sure there are varying interpretations of MOT requirements out there. If you sent your car to the place I use you would probably leave feeling quite annoyed as they put advisories for the smallest amount of surface rust - to cover themselves. I've used them for many, many years, know the workshop manager well and have had some healthy arguments about it. The workshop manager says the MOT tester (new in last couple of years) has to do his own thing. The MOT tester himself when challenged why a car with no advisories at a different MOT station now has 12 from him just says they are wrong (lazy) and he is right. I'm going to the BMW main dealer next time. I had a chat with them and they said they've got no interest in raising advisories for those reasons. Sometimes I'm okay with the high scrutiny. Sometimes I'm not. It depends which car it is.
 

Stevo7682

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@mrscalex .
Your tester wouldn't know what had hit him if he came to the west of Scotland to test
You have to become an expert on corrosion and be more subjective about what you are advising and failing as pretty much everything I see is corroded to some extent ( even some relatively new stuff)
If I was to start advising on everything every car would have a list a mile long on it.
So you have to concentrate on corrosion that is actually detrimental to the function of the associated parts and when the level of corrosion actually becomes a problem with that component.
I think there are a number of testers out there who are a bit overzealous in their tests and kinda forget the basic fundamentals.
For mechanical parts 1 month
For structural parts 3 months
If when testing you consider the part is still serviceable for those time periods then a pass or pass and advise.

Stephen.
 

t-tony

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As I said life is never dull as a Tester. There is always the right to appeal a test outcome, and that includes advisory items not simply pass or fail.

Tony.
 
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