Oil change for newbie

A siezed wheel can be removed quite easily by wrapping a towel around the centre portion and the roots of the spokes, then slowly pouring almost boiling water over the towel. This will hold the heat while it is passed into the wheel. As aready suggested, clean the mounting spigot and the wheel centre bore before giving them a thin coat of Copaslip. I also use Copaslip on the wheel bolt threads and taper, and then tighten with one hand - NOT a torque wrench! In about 60 years I have never had a wheel bolt come loose - no matter what the prophets of doom will say!
 
No, quite definitely no. The mating surfaces are there for a reason, to carry the weight of the car, all the driving/braking/cornering loads, and to locate the wheel in the first place. If you look at the hub you'll probably see a build-up of corrosion aroound the central spigot, take a stiff wire brush to it and the matching part of the wheel, and just leave it clean. So long as the wheels are taken of off fairly regularly for normal servicing they should be Ok. Putting copperslip or something similar reduces the friction between the mounting faces and can (not always) result in an unscheduled catastrophic separation, better to just keep things clean.
Ok I’ll leave it for the back of brake pads. I will put some on the bolts tho
 
You see this where things go on someone’s opinion. Personally I would apply a thin smear of copper grease on the hub or the centre of the wheel but never use it on the wheel bolt threads. This is how I’ve done it for the last 50 years, it’s NOT me saying I’m right just how I’ve done it and how I was trained to do things as an Agricultural Apprentice. You must do what you think is right for you.

Tony.
 
I apply copper slip to the hub centric ring on the hub and a smear around the wheels centre, thin smear on the hub flat surface that the wheel butts against but never on the wheel bolt threads. Never had any problems with wheels coming loose. Always use a pair of wheel locating pins to assist reinstalling the wheels saves struggling with lifting and locating the wheels in line with the bolt holes.
 
Putting copperslip or something similar reduces the friction between the mounting faces and can (not always) result in an unscheduled catastrophic separation,

Have you ever, in the history of motor cars, ever heard of this actually happening?

There's no friction between the mounting faces — the wheels are secured by the wheel bolts, not the locating flange.
 
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This is worth a read.
There is quite a bit to different oil specs but I wouldn’t get too hung up on it as most of us don’t do many miles and service regularly.

 
OP only came in for an oil and filter change and now has to worry about whether his wheels are going to come off!
It’s ok. So many questions you see. I have done loads of work on cars and bikes over the years, but it’s always best to listen to people who have more experience in a marque or model than you do. Even if it’s just the sequence of taking something apart, therefore not breaking anything. Wouldn’t expect many on here knowing how to rebuild a Honda Fireblade engine without a little help., Thanks for all the input
 
This is worth a read.
There is quite a bit to different oil specs but I wouldn’t get too hung up on it as most of us don’t do many miles and service regularly.

Even tho I got it done in the end. It was interesting to see the price difference between kwik fit and ATS. 100 versus 156.?
 
Even tho I got it done in the end. It was interesting to see the price difference between kwik fit and ATS. 100 versus 156.?

What was the cost doing it yourself?

Tony.
 
@Pendle996 thanks for sharing the prices from Kwik Fit and ATS. They’re my two nearest high street garages too.

I’ve just paid £85.00 near enough for:
7 litres oli - Fuchs Titan
Oil filter - Febi
Air filter - Febi
Sump plug / washer
Fuel filter - Febi

That includes VAT and and 15% discount.

glad to see im quids in.
 
There's no friction between the mounting faces — the wheels are secured by the wheel bolts, not the locating flange.
The loads will be transferred by friction created by tightening the wheel bolts/nuts, stretching them and clamping the faces together. The flange certainly doesn't carry the wheels, just locates them.
And, yes, in the over fifty years since I finished my apprenticeship I have seen many wheels come off, and have no wish to see the results again.
 
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