Always used to use Blue Hylomar with paper gaskets back in my fitting days. Not strictly necessary as the gasket should seal but we always used the belt & braces approach.
Works for me Adrian. Old School.I apply a little grease to each mating surface of the gasket
Another one we used on diesel engines, especially on copper head gaskets back when I was the "old boy" working on Massey Ferguson was a product called Wellseal it was brown and it stank, but it worked.Always used to use Blue Hylomar with paper gaskets back in my fitting days. Not strictly necessary as the gasket should seal but we always used the belt & braces approach.
The bush flew in with the press. It didn't care about the oval shape. I can only recommend you getting one. Mine was £80 2 years ago. And it has a very small footprint in a corner of the garage. It doesn't get used too much. But when it does it's priceless.I hadn't given thought to the metal plate shoulders but what you say makes sense. I like your approach to understanding how an item functions, I tend to do the same.
I guess with a press the ovality has no adverse effect? Looked into pressing my 2 in today but with only a vice the bush may well start cock eyed so will try and sort a clamp to 'round it up' first - nowhere had one big enough
My 2.8 had a new bush fitted in Jimmy's care but was in upside down so removed it today.
Looking at getting both diff covers vapour blasted, about £20 each. This is after seeing a photo of @Daspete diff cover - just soo cool
Cover gasket sealant? I always clean mating surfaces scrupulously and assuming no one has been there before to mangle things I apply a little grease to each mating surface of the gasket. Sealants are for bodgers
Which press did you get Rob, if you don't mind me asking.The bush flew in with the press. It didn't care about the oval shape. I can only recommend you getting one. Mine was £80 2 years ago. And it has a very small footprint in a corner of the garage. It doesn't get used too much. But when it does it's priceless.
I did think about getting the cover blasted. I didn't want it shot-blasted in case the mating surface was damaged. And I did think about water blasting but I just want to get it back together now. It got a clean with the dremmel and a scrub bit and looks a lot better than it did. Shame in a way as it will be the only thing underneath the rear that isn't shiney.
@Pingu made a compression tool out of an exhaust clamp. The pictures on zroadster.net are no longer available although you can get a preview in google.
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Flippin eck. Twice the price now.Which press did you get Rob, if you don't mind me asking.
Tony.
I get quite a lot of stuff blasted and they are pretty good at masking up. I just don't want to risk it in case.You can protect surfaces from media damage from shot/grit/bead blasting by using silicone tape on the surfaces you want to be safe from the media. Wheel refurbers use it.
Tony.
Very nice. So vapour not water blasted or is that the same thing? What sort of money if you don’t mind me asking.All my sub frames etc were soda blasted. Even had all my engine done. A good place will mask it up properly.
Get all your alloy parts vapour blasted it looks amazing. Apparently you don't need to paint it afterwards but I lacquered it just to be safe.
Here's a pic of my cam cover and diff. Cam cover looked so much better before the bolts rusted
Even my sump is vapour blasted.
I know the feeling of just wanting it back together. Mines off the road waiting for new rocker arms now in hope that loud tick will disappear.Very nice. So vapour not water blasted or is that the same thing? What sort of money if you don’t mind me asking.
Left it too late with this one. Just wanted it back together now. There’ll be a next time though.