OEM diff bush fitting - which way up?

Eddie Zedder

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Always used to use Blue Hylomar with paper gaskets back in my fitting days. Not strictly necessary as the gasket should seal but we always used the belt & braces approach.
 

t-tony

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If it were me fitting a paper gasket I would simply rub a small amount of general purpose grease onto the gasket. All I use on paper type gaskets, a method that has stood me in good stead all my working life. A method used by my late father in law in the REME years ago. Idea being a) It seals the gasket, but b) you can take it apart without breaking the gasket.

Tony.
 

Synclare

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Here's a final graphic.

View attachment 186175
I hadn't given thought to the metal plate shoulders but what you say makes sense. I like your approach to understanding how an item functions, I tend to do the same.
I guess with a press the ovality has no adverse effect? Looked into pressing my 2 in today but with only a vice the bush may well start cock eyed so will try and sort a clamp to 'round it up' first - nowhere had one big enough :(
My 2.8 had a new bush fitted in Jimmy's care but was in upside down so removed it today.
Looking at getting both diff covers vapour blasted, about £20 each. This is after seeing a photo of @Daspete diff cover - just soo cool :cool:
Cover gasket sealant? I always clean mating surfaces scrupulously and assuming no one has been there before to mangle things I apply a little grease to each mating surface of the gasket. Sealants are for bodgers :shy:
 

t-tony

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t-tony

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Always used to use Blue Hylomar with paper gaskets back in my fitting days. Not strictly necessary as the gasket should seal but we always used the belt & braces approach.
Another one we used on diesel engines, especially on copper head gaskets back when I was the "old boy" working on Massey Ferguson was a product called Wellseal it was brown and it stank, but it worked.

Tony.
 

mrscalex

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I hadn't given thought to the metal plate shoulders but what you say makes sense. I like your approach to understanding how an item functions, I tend to do the same.
I guess with a press the ovality has no adverse effect? Looked into pressing my 2 in today but with only a vice the bush may well start cock eyed so will try and sort a clamp to 'round it up' first - nowhere had one big enough :(
My 2.8 had a new bush fitted in Jimmy's care but was in upside down so removed it today.
Looking at getting both diff covers vapour blasted, about £20 each. This is after seeing a photo of @Daspete diff cover - just soo cool :cool:
Cover gasket sealant? I always clean mating surfaces scrupulously and assuming no one has been there before to mangle things I apply a little grease to each mating surface of the gasket. Sealants are for bodgers :shy:
The bush flew in with the press. It didn't care about the oval shape. I can only recommend you getting one. Mine was £80 2 years ago. And it has a very small footprint in a corner of the garage. It doesn't get used too much. But when it does it's priceless.

I did think about getting the cover blasted. I didn't want it shot-blasted in case the mating surface was damaged. And I did think about water blasting but I just want to get it back together now. It got a clean with the dremmel and a scrub bit and looks a lot better than it did. Shame in a way as it will be the only thing underneath the rear that isn't shiney.

@Pingu made a compression tool out of an exhaust clamp. The pictures on zroadster.net are no longer available although you can get a preview in google.

1623098136952.png
 

t-tony

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You can protect surfaces from media damage from shot/grit/bead blasting by using silicone tape on the surfaces you want to be safe from the media. Wheel refurbers use it.

Tony.
 

t-tony

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The bush flew in with the press. It didn't care about the oval shape. I can only recommend you getting one. Mine was £80 2 years ago. And it has a very small footprint in a corner of the garage. It doesn't get used too much. But when it does it's priceless.

I did think about getting the cover blasted. I didn't want it shot-blasted in case the mating surface was damaged. And I did think about water blasting but I just want to get it back together now. It got a clean with the dremmel and a scrub bit and looks a lot better than it did. Shame in a way as it will be the only thing underneath the rear that isn't shiney.

@Pingu made a compression tool out of an exhaust clamp. The pictures on zroadster.net are no longer available although you can get a preview in google.

View attachment 186271
Which press did you get Rob, if you don't mind me asking.

Tony.
 

mrscalex

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mrscalex

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You can protect surfaces from media damage from shot/grit/bead blasting by using silicone tape on the surfaces you want to be safe from the media. Wheel refurbers use it.

Tony.
I get quite a lot of stuff blasted and they are pretty good at masking up. I just don't want to risk it in case.
 

Daspete

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All my sub frames etc were soda blasted. Even had all my engine done. A good place will mask it up properly.
Get all your alloy parts vapour blasted it looks amazing. Apparently you don't need to paint it afterwards but I lacquered it just to be safe.
Here's a pic of my cam cover and diff. Cam cover looked so much better before the bolts rusted 😔
Even my sump is vapour blasted.
 

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mrscalex

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All my sub frames etc were soda blasted. Even had all my engine done. A good place will mask it up properly.
Get all your alloy parts vapour blasted it looks amazing. Apparently you don't need to paint it afterwards but I lacquered it just to be safe.
Here's a pic of my cam cover and diff. Cam cover looked so much better before the bolts rusted 😔
Even my sump is vapour blasted.
Very nice. So vapour not water blasted or is that the same thing? What sort of money if you don’t mind me asking.

Left it too late with this one. Just wanted it back together now. There’ll be a next time though.
 

Daspete

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Very nice. So vapour not water blasted or is that the same thing? What sort of money if you don’t mind me asking.

Left it too late with this one. Just wanted it back together now. There’ll be a next time though.
I know the feeling of just wanting it back together. Mines off the road waiting for new rocker arms now in hope that loud tick will disappear.

I can't remember the price but it was surprisingly cheap. Had my stuff done at SBL in Wolverhampton.
They do alot of stuff for car SOS.

Far as I'm aware vapour and water are the same thing. Just remember to totally dismantle any parts before having them done like clean and remove baffles etc.
Bushes can be left in because it will act as masking.

Got a sexy looking M44 upper manifold in the garage that I had done. Not sure whether to sell it or fit it on the M43, it does fit just needs some braketry.
 

Synclare

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Those M44 manifolds are something aren't they!
Didn't get chance to drop my diff covers in today but will do it Monday. I mounted the diff covers on a piece of hardboard to protect the inside and found a sponge pudding bowl (empty now) that was an exact fit over the diff bush and secured it in place with long bolt. Bush now completely protected not that it really matters. Couple of days to get 'em back.
 

Daspete

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It doesn't really matter about masking so much with vapour blasting because it isn't first abrasive aggregates at the metal.
You'll be amazed when you see it, you'll want to get everything done.

I used power flex bushes on the rear. Oddly the trailing arm bushes were too long and I had to cut some off. For the price of them I expected better quality however the back end does feel nice and planted now
 

Daspete

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It's a shame that the M44 lower manifold doesn't fit because that would look amazing. I did originally build the engine with the 44s upper on but took it off for trouble shooting and waiting until the engine is perfect before refitting it.
Looks really smart and it has a bigger throttle body so it should improve performance.
Annoyingly I bought a new intake boot from sytner the other day at £48 forgetting I was going to do this lol
 
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