Nice surprise

[t-tony]

I'm fairly sure the stud which broke off would be contact welded from the out side (spot welded) so there isn't likely to be any reason not to drill a hole for the rivnut. I would carefully grind it flush and try drilling.

Tony..

 

[Mazza]

Just ground off the broken stud, centre popped it, and drilled a hole.
Absolutely right @t-tony spot welded stud !!!
It was then a toss up between £50-60 and waiting for delivery, or zero cost and using a self tapper with a large washer.

And the winner is......The cheap option !!!!

Also, as the self tap screw hole is smaller than would be required for a rivnut or rivstud, I have the option to change it at sometime in the future if I can find a cheaper tool. (And would probably do all the other three studs at the same time.)

I did remember to treat the area with anti rust primer

 

[Mazza]

All done and finished today.
I had one screw over, realised where it should have gone and had to take it all apart again to correct it. Probably would not have been an issue but I didn’t want to end up with a rattle !,,,
The other problem was after cleaning, painting the spare wheel bits, I was inflating the spare to 60psi, the valve went bang ( made me jump ! ) and ended up taking it to have a new valve fitted. Probably an age thing !
Anyway all sorted now.....

Just the valve cover gasket to swap next week sometime.

 

[the Nefyn cat]

Are my eyes telling me lies, or is that o/s beam bush about as cream-crackered as mine were before fitting some of Mr Powerflexs' finest?

 

[Mazza]

@the Nefyn cat Do you mean that rubber lump on the end of the crossbeam????

How can you tell??? If it is crap.....how do you change it.....and I would assume the both sides would have to be done.

“

 

[the Nefyn cat]

Stick a lever in the bottom of it, between the beam and the bracket it sits on. From the looks of it, the beam will bounce up and down freely, this means the steel sleeve has un-bonded itself from the rubber part of the bush and the beam will leap about with a mind of its own over bumps. Only way to sort it is to drop the beam out, plenty of threads on here, https://zroadster.org/threads/reggie-2-8-subframe-running-gear-refresh.22046/ for starters. Up to you what you replace them with, went for Powerflex myself, others go for oem. Or my eyes may well be lying and there's nothing wrong with yours, in which case, happy days.

 

[t-tony]

I'm sure you're right Mick. Never will have been changed just like most other Z3s.

Tony.

 

[the Nefyn cat]

Trouble is, once you start down that route it escalates, because there's no point just doing a couple of bushes, while it's out might as well do a bit more, and then a bit more, and then..... Before you know it there's new brake pipes/hoses, a lick or two of paint here and there ( the list goes on, ask me how I know). And the handbrake cables, and................................................

 

[t-tony]

No point in doing half a job though, while the beam is out its best to refresh it all.

Tony.

 

[Mazza]

This sounds like it’s going to turn into an episode of Fantomworks..........

Well it’s not going to be done this week.......but I agree if, and I have no idea how, the rear end is going to be dismantled, then it makes sense to replace all the rubber bushes.

Is this a job that can be done using axle stands or does the car need to be up in the air?
Also does it require special tools?

 

[t-tony]

@Antm72 is about to embark on such a job Mazza and knowing Ant he will be posting pictures of his progress for all to enjoy. So you'll soon be able to see how it's done on stands in a standard car garage. It doesn't require anything other than normal everyday mechanics tools as far as I'm aware.

Tony.

 

[the Nefyn cat]

Did mine with just jack, axle stands, and some hand tools. And a lifetime of experience of mechanicing. These Zshed blokes have it too easy. There's nothing difficult on the axle, the end bushes will come out using nothing more than a hacksaw and a long thin chisel, easier if you've got a press but do-able without. Have a read of some of the threads, and a good long think. While I was doing mine I fitted eccentric bushes to the trailing arms, gets rid of most of the camber and helps tyre wear. There's lots that can be done, it's all up to you. And I may be wrong and the bushes are fine, just look a bit dodgy in the photos.

 

[t-tony]

Just ground off the broken stud, centre popped it, and drilled a hole.
Absolutely right @t-tony spot welded stud !!!
It was then a toss up between £50-60 and waiting for delivery, or zero cost and using a self tapper with a large washer.

And the winner is......The cheap option !!!!

Also, as the self tap screw hole is smaller than would be required for a rivnut or rivstud, I have the option to change it at sometime in the future if I can find a cheaper tool. (And would probably do all the other three studs at the same time.)

I did remember to treat the area with anti rust primer

I bought one of these a few weeks ago now. Great bit of kit too. Not expensive either.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOCHE-PR...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Tony.

 

[the Nefyn cat]

I bought one of these a few weeks ago now. Great bit of kit too. Not expensive either.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOCHE-PROFESSIONAL-4mm-8mm-THREADED-RIVET-NUT-NUTSERT-RIVNUT-INSERT-SETTING-TOOL/361671940057?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Tony.

+1 from me, got one years back and they're great. Wouldn't use it in a high-stress type of place, but for attaching bits and bobs it's just the right tool.