I can stop mine with my finger, not sure what mechanic I got that off 

You wouldn't want to try that with this new one Sean, you'd be a finger or two missingI can stop mine with my finger, not sure what mechanic I got that off![]()
I believe it should stop easily if its good, is that right @t-tony, if not I best get iut changed as I have some big cruises coming upYou wouldn't want to try that with this new one Sean, you'd be a finger or two missing![]()
This new one is totally different to the old one. With the engine not running there is a lot of resistance to spinning the fan. Whether that is because it's new and needs to 'bed in' I don't know...I believe it should stop easily if its good, is that right @t-tony, if not I best get it changed as I have some big cruises coming up
Best not stick ones finger in then palThis new one is totally different to the old one. With the engine not running there is a lot of resistance to spinning. Whether that is because it's new and needs to 'bed in' I don't know...
I used to stop all viscous fans by finger, but then I was young and daft ...................... Don'tI believe it should stop easily if its good, is that right @t-tony, if not I best get iut changed as I have some big cruises coming up
After reading several horror stories on here about the fan blades breaking up and taking the radiator out with it I decided to go down the fan delete route. In addition to taking the viscous coupled fan off a lower temperature thermostat should be fitted. Easy on a 6 pot, where a 4 pot stat being 8 deg C lower (IIRC) is ideal. The a/c fan cuts in to cool the radiator when required. I have not had need to look into sourcing a lower temperature stat for a 4 pot, perhaps somebody else can add that info.If you have aircon, these fans are not necessary IMO. My early 1997 car didn't have one from new. If the temp starts to rise, the electronic (AC) fan cuts in happily.![]()
If the top and bottom hoses are both getting hot at the same time that would suggest that the radiator isn't cooling properly, the top hose should be hot once the thermostat opens and the bottom hose should be a lot cooler, that's the way it's supposed to be. The rad may be silted up, normally caused by past use of dodgy water to top up with, or Radweld or something similar being put in.I'll be doing this shortly. Mine is overheating in traffic. Both hoses get boiling hot and firm when on.
The fan is on from the moment the engine is turned on, and when engine is off, it's quite easy to turn it freely. I assume that suggests it's knackered?
Not if my new one is anything to go by...As for the fan, it should spin freely with the engine off and cold...
Agree as long as I was moving, no problem but sat in traffic, or on the MOT ramp is when I had my problem. The old fan spun very freely when cold but the new one doesn't....round here there ain't a lot of traffic, and it doesn't spend a lot of time sitting around running. A traffic jam here tends to be a fewwandering about, not the awful snarl-ups I remember from living dahn sarf.