NEVER AGAIN

Mnbrennan said:
What you lot talking about?

The bolt is in the same place as last week, I'll get another chance on Saturday. In the meantime I've ordered:
  • H&R Anti Roll Bars
  • Stainless brake lines all round
  • Rear discs
  • Yellowstuff pads all round
  • Powerflex subframe bushes
  • Brakes are being returned
Need to buy
  • Front brake discs
  • Sills
  • A load of nuts bolts etc.
  • Brake plates
  • Exhaust mounts
I also had a delivery of some POR 15 to sort the chassis out

@Lee , need to sort out a time for my subframe...
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Happy to help mate. How do you wanna go about it? I have a spare subframe here I could knock the bush's out and we could swap? Unless you have another idea?
 
Lee said:
Happy to help mate. How do you wanna go about it? I have a spare subframe here I could knock the bush's out and we could swap? Unless you have another idea?
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///M beam is different @Lee, something to do with camber.
 
Lee said:
Happy to help mate. How do you wanna go about it? I have a spare subframe here I could knock the bush's out and we could swap? Unless you have another idea?
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I'd like to get mine tidied up nicely (POR + Hammerite) ideally, although that could be done with any subframe to be honest either before or after the bushes are fitted. Have the Powerflex here in the house now.

Need to get mine out first either way :bashhead:
 
Lee said:
How sure are you about this? I have compared a beam in the past.
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Randy Forbes made a jig and compared the 2 beams, ///Ms run very little camber, standard Zeds have this in bucket loads, the difference was in the mounting lugs on the beam.
 
Brian H said:
Randy Forbes made a jig and compared the 2 beams, ///Ms run very little camber, standard Zeds have this in bucket loads, the difference was in the mounting lugs on the beam.
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Spent so long looking into this and found nothing, is his research public?

Mnbrennan said:
Real Oem would tend to agree
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...&sg=30&diagId=33_0998&q=33312228200&series=Z3
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I take Realoem with a pinch of salt, some parts are the same between models and BMW charge different prices for the same parts.
 
Lee said:
Spent so long looking into this and found nothing, is his research public?.
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It was on bimmerforums I think Lee, I saw this a few years back but the evidence was pretty conclusive, I'll send you the link if I find it.
 
Brian H said:
It was on bimmerforums I think Lee, I saw this a few years back but the evidence was pretty conclusive, I'll send you the link if I find it.
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Cheers Brian, I'm a member on there so i'll see what I can find. I thought the camber was done on the swingarms.
 
FRANKIE said:
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I HATE IT, I HATE IT, I HATE IT, I HATE IT, I HATE IT, I HATE IT, ECT....AD INFINITUM............I have gotten IN MORE TROUBLE AND CREATED MORE AND WORSE PROBLEMS USING EASY OUT THAN I care to tell you. Let's say you have a big bolt that snaps off. Now you're looking at the better half of a bolt stuck in something, let's say an engine block. I KNOW WHAT I'LL DO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'LL USE EASY OUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So you drill a hole in the center of the bolt, and screw in an easy out. You attach the lever to the end of the EASY OUT shaft and begin to turn the EASY OUT tool which is now locked onto the shaft of the bolt. Does it begin to back out the broken shaft of the bolt? $#%T NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! At the FIRST OPPORTUNITY it has, it snaps off inside the bolt and now you have to drill out the EASY OUT shaft from inside the shaft of the bolt. And if you thought it was tough drilling a hole through the center of the bolt, IT AIN'T NOTHING COMPARED TO TRYING TO DRILL A HOLE THROUGH THE EASY OUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Sorry Frankie, didn't mean to upset you. =)) Never had to drill out an easy out, but have had plenty of broken taps, hard as nails them buggers.
 
Lee said:
Cheers Brian, I'm a member on there so i'll see what I can find. I thought the camber was done on the swingarms.
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Have you had any practice on the welder? Apparently the ARB mounts should be reinforced when using a stiffer ARB...
 
Mnbrennan said:
Have you had any practice on the welder? Apparently the ARB mounts should be reinforced when using a stiffer ARB...
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No mate on the list to learn :) I had no issues with mine over the 30,000 running all powerflex.
 
It's not the powerflex that's the issue, it's the H&R Anti Roll Bar. I might just wing it
 
Found it @Brian H , learn something new about these cars all the time. Cheers for the heads up. @Mnbrennan you better bring the beam down :)

Forbes.webp
 
If you've got a Mig welder Lee, I taught myself how to use it. Main thing with any type of welding is preparation. Get both surfaces spotlessly clean and make sure you have the two parts to be welded clamped hard to each other so there is NO air gap between them. Tack the two pieces at close intervals and GENTLY tap the joint together before welding, if you hit the parts to hard they will only bounce back apart..Then, practice, practice and more practice.

Tony.

ps. If it is a Mig, is it one that has a gas bottle or gas less?
 
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Mnbrennan said:
The saga continues on Saturday. I'll WhatsApp you with how I get on. Hopfully out on Saturday...
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Good luck mate, hope you get it on the floor.:thumbsup:

Tony.
 
I'd think that after all the dozens of doughnuts @Lee burnt without snapping an ARB mount they should hold with @Mnbrennan driving @BMBabe!! So as long as they're stable to begin with I'd go with it the way it is! JIM
 
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