Name that part?

Uncle_Clanger

Uncle_Clanger

Zorg Guru (I)
British Zeds
Joined
Jul 2, 2016
Points
87
Location
Northants
Model of Z
3.0i
Forgive my total ignorance but I trying to find out what this panel is actually called? Air intake coweling? I've really no idea...But unless I find out I'm going to struggle getting a new one. Mine has corroded and has been clumsily repaired.

Also can anybody advise what and where to buy the best match for the bmw primer used in the engine bay.(I guess it's a standard grey for titan silver)

Thanks in advance
 

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Uncle_Clanger said:
Forgive my total ignorance but I trying to find out what this panel is actually called? Air intake coweling? I've really no idea...But unless I find out I'm going to struggle getting a new one. Mine has corroded and has been clumsily repaired.

Also can anybody advise what and where to buy the best match for the bmw primer used in the engine bay.(I guess it's a standard grey for titan silver)

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Have you tried RealOEM? You will find the name and part number on there. Just enter the last few digits of your VIN into the search box, assuming you have a Z3 you will find it in the classic section. If you don't have your VIN you can do it by model.
 
Failing that call Soper's at Lincoln and speak to the guys there, All very friendly and helpful.:)

Tony.
 
Eddie Zedder said:
Have you tried RealOEM? You will find the name and part number on there. Just enter the last few digits of your VIN into the search box, assuming you have a Z3 you will find it in the classic section. If you don't have your VIN you can do it by model.
Click to expand...
Thankyou Eddie.... Quite simply a "front panel" ... Who would have thought it? :p
 
I have one of these in good nick if your interested? Same colour too. I can take some photos if you want?
 
Brian H said:
I have one of these in good nick if your interested? Same colour too. I can take some photos if you want?
Click to expand...
Yes please Brian.... I Think I have one to look at locally today but it might not be in good condition... A pic or two would be great... Where abouts are you?

Thanks
 
That's not primer in the engine bay if that's what you meant. It's un-lacquered top coat.

You'll do very well to find a second-hand front panel that has no corrosion. They take quite a lot of abuse. A new one is prohibitively expensive.

The front panel is held on with a number of small spot welds on the end flange of the chassis rails. You will need to drill these out. It's not as bad as it sounds and the replacement panel doesn't need to be spot welded back.

It's not the quickest of jobs replacing a front panel. There's quite a lot of dismantling to do - bumper/bar/shock absorbers, air ducting, headlamps, bonnet catch/release system, headlamps, power steering cooler pipe, wiring loom clips, under engine tray, air con rad if you have one. Neither the main rad or air con rad need removing though. Just prop up as you work around. You will also need a selection of replacement fixings like the plastic rivets used to secure the air ducting and the wiring loom clips. You may be able to reuse them but I routinely replace them. You may well find the bonnet release system the biggest challenge - take a look on the Pelican web site for a How To. Make sure you have a good quality 8mm metal drill bit to take the spot welds out. You could use a 10mm bit but I feel that would take out too much metal. I just gave a gental tap on mine with a large bolster chiesel between the surfaces to break the remaining weld away and I think I had more metal left as a result.

You haven't got a Topaz Blue one tucked away there too have you Brian?
 
Uncle_Clanger said:
Yes please Brian.... I Think I have one to look at locally today but it might not be in good condition... A pic or two would be great... Where abouts are you?

Thanks
Click to expand...
In the middle of Scotland however I will be at croft circuit in a week or two if that helps, the one I have is off a low mileage car and I am fairly certain it is in good condition, I'll post some pics later on today.
 
mrscalex said:
That's not primer in the engine bay if that's what you meant. It's un-lacquered top coat.

You'll do very well to find a second-hand front panel that has no corrosion. They take quite a lot of abuse. A new one is prohibitively expensive.

The front panel is held on with a number of small spot welds on the end flange of the chassis rails. You will need to drill these out. It's not as bad as it sounds and the replacement panel doesn't need to be spot welded back.

It's not the quickest of jobs replacing a front panel. There's quite a lot of dismantling to do - bumper/bar/shock absorbers, air ducting, headlamps, bonnet catch/release system, headlamps, power steering cooler pipe, wiring loom clips, under engine tray, air con rad if you have one. Neither the main rad or air con rad need removing though. Just prop up as you work around. You will also need a selection of replacement fixings like the plastic rivets used to secure the air ducting and the wiring loom clips. You may be able to reuse them but I routinely replace them. You may well find the bonnet release system the biggest challenge - take a look on the Pelican web site for a How To. Make sure you have a good quality 8mm metal drill bit to take the spot welds out. You could use a 10mm bit but I feel that would take out too much metal. I just gave a gental tap on mine with a large bolster chiesel between the surfaces to break the remaining weld away and I think I had more metal left as a result.

You haven't got a Topaz Blue one tucked away there too have you Brian?
Click to expand...
I've had a much better look at it today and its not as bad as I thought...the dodgy repairs to the top plate of the front panel make it appear worse... I think based upon your experience with this I'm going to have a go at smartening
up the repair... But thanks alot for the tips on a replacement... If I can make some space in the garage, hopefully I can collect a few bits I may need in the future.
 
Last edited:
Brian H said:
In the middle of Scotland however I will be at croft circuit in a week or two if that helps, the one I have is off a low mileage car and I am fairly certain it is in good condition, I'll post some pics later on today.
Click to expand...
Thanks Brian... But on closer inspection, I'm going to have a go at tidying it for now...That's not to say I won't need one in future.... I'm hoping the chaps at the Zed shed will help shine a light on exactly what needs doing first..I've a couple of bits to sort mechanically, first being a cam sensor.
 
mrscalex said:
That's not primer in the engine bay if that's what you meant. It's un-lacquered top coat.

You'll do very well to find a second-hand front panel that has no corrosion. They take quite a lot of abuse. A new one is prohibitively expensive.

The front panel is held on with a number of small spot welds on the end flange of the chassis rails. You will need to drill these out. It's not as bad as it sounds and the replacement panel doesn't need to be spot welded back.

It's not the quickest of jobs replacing a front panel. There's quite a lot of dismantling to do - bumper/bar/shock absorbers, air ducting, headlamps, bonnet catch/release system, headlamps, power steering cooler pipe, wiring loom clips, under engine tray, air con rad if you have one. Neither the main rad or air con rad need removing though. Just prop up as you work around. You will also need a selection of replacement fixings like the plastic rivets used to secure the air ducting and the wiring loom clips. You may be able to reuse them but I routinely replace them. You may well find the bonnet release system the biggest challenge - take a look on the Pelican web site for a How To. Make sure you have a good quality 8mm metal drill bit to take the spot welds out. You could use a 10mm bit but I feel that would take out too much metal. I just gave a gental tap on mine with a large bolster chiesel between the surfaces to break the remaining weld away and I think I had more metal left as a result.

You haven't got a Topaz Blue one tucked away there too have you Brian?
Click to expand...
It's definitely unlaquered... I've looked on this site to try and identify it (code?) but its not clear...

http://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/colour_swatch_bmw_1999.php

The colour label under the bonnet reads Titansilber in large font and Arktissilber underneath. It's a very light matt grey in the engine bay.
 
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