It was wrapped in a 1997 Z3 body.
I had much of this on another forum and pulled it over in the event it is interesting or helpful for other members here. I don't think anything extraordinary is going on here, just working the Z back to a more maintained and solid state.
I mentioned in another thread of mine that I am no mechanic by trade or impersonation, but rather by necessity. So, I tend to learn from folks in forums like this one and have had the cool opportunity to work on a few models over the years. The last few years, it seems I tend towards the M42s and M44s as my M62 is just a bit to thirsty to be practical as of late. The Z fits really well into that model and with the other cars I tend to work on.
It needs some TLC, but all the base things are in good shape. It has a new to the car M44, Remus exhaust, Catalytic Converter, struts/shocks, clutch, battery, W/HK sound system, heated seats, clean, but seriously needs hood paint. The body is totally straight with minor door dings. My initial observations were major vibration under load (Flex disc) and a huge exhaust leak somewhere. Reading the codes showed it had an O2 rear sensor fault and there is a misfire on Cyl #4..
It needs work, so the price was right. I grew up with Verts and while the 318ti Cali is nice for a big sunroof, it's not a vert. My main motive was price, shell, interior condition and that I have always liked the Z3s. It beat out a Porsche Boxster I was looking at the same weekend that was $2,200 more with a blown motor. I'm happy with this one as they are easy to renew.
A lady owned the car and used it for 180 mile daily commutes. High mileage, but reportedly highway miles. I suspect so as the suspension arms and steering components show minimal wear and tear.
I actually wanted a Z3M, but this was less than a 5th of the going cost and I have immediate available spares for most all that needs repair. Motor runs strong, but needs an oil pan gasket. Also needs tranny mounts and a flex disc.
I started my renewal list. Some things may be overkill, but I like to fix it once while I have things apart, then not have to mess with it again for awhile.
Ordered:
I believe this was the main satisfaction issue that cause the sale. They had just dropped in a rebuilt M44, but didn't replace the tired Flex Disc. Six months later, the car ran badly. Upon the test drive, I told the PO this, but they still wanted to sell it. $38 dollars for the part.
Also, the engine was leaking lotsa oil. Turns out the oil pan was leaking on the passenger side, rear oil pan bolts. $14 for the gasket, plus motor mounts since I had to drop the subframe anyway. I had new, spare motor mounts in storage
I like the tone of the exhaust (Once I corrected the exhaust leak)
The hood needs serious love. A paint job will be in order in due time. A new Roundel is usually the first order of repair for me. I have a bunch of spares on hand. I also reattached the rear view mirror and removed the leopard skin seat covers.
Little goofy odds and ends missing for little parts. Cracked intake boot, SMOG pump misaligned, A/C not charged, intake tube hose not properly installed. Missing under body airflow cooling parts, windshield nozzles not working. Little annoying, but fixable stuff....
Really bad headlight wear. I started to polish out the headlights. This was after 40 minutes of polishing. easily 50% better, but still needs more polishing. I will likely replace for a HID set for my old eyes.
I did pull out a bunch of renewal parts for the TIs that are same part#s for what I need on the Z3.
Something to be said about standardizing some aspect of your vehicles...
My BT reader indicated that the #4 plug started misfiring. Upon inspection, the boot was torn off and #4 plug was shorting on the block. I ordered new Magnecor wires and in the meantime, I'll see if I have a spare in storage this weekend to temp replace while I wait for the new wires.
I also noticed a familiar rattle behind the drivers seat. I suspect the Drivers side RSM is blown. I'll replace them both and install the reinforcement plates.
I believe the PO somewhat stripped the Oil Pan drain plug threads with a magnetic plug that had a different pitch to the bolt. It's in there snugly, but I'll plan on replacing the oil pan prolly at my next oil change. I'm getting quicker on swapping out M44 oil pans. I'll write and post an Oil Pan replacement DIY if one docent already exist
I had much of this on another forum and pulled it over in the event it is interesting or helpful for other members here. I don't think anything extraordinary is going on here, just working the Z back to a more maintained and solid state.
I mentioned in another thread of mine that I am no mechanic by trade or impersonation, but rather by necessity. So, I tend to learn from folks in forums like this one and have had the cool opportunity to work on a few models over the years. The last few years, it seems I tend towards the M42s and M44s as my M62 is just a bit to thirsty to be practical as of late. The Z fits really well into that model and with the other cars I tend to work on.
It needs some TLC, but all the base things are in good shape. It has a new to the car M44, Remus exhaust, Catalytic Converter, struts/shocks, clutch, battery, W/HK sound system, heated seats, clean, but seriously needs hood paint. The body is totally straight with minor door dings. My initial observations were major vibration under load (Flex disc) and a huge exhaust leak somewhere. Reading the codes showed it had an O2 rear sensor fault and there is a misfire on Cyl #4..
It needs work, so the price was right. I grew up with Verts and while the 318ti Cali is nice for a big sunroof, it's not a vert. My main motive was price, shell, interior condition and that I have always liked the Z3s. It beat out a Porsche Boxster I was looking at the same weekend that was $2,200 more with a blown motor. I'm happy with this one as they are easy to renew.
A lady owned the car and used it for 180 mile daily commutes. High mileage, but reportedly highway miles. I suspect so as the suspension arms and steering components show minimal wear and tear.
I actually wanted a Z3M, but this was less than a 5th of the going cost and I have immediate available spares for most all that needs repair. Motor runs strong, but needs an oil pan gasket. Also needs tranny mounts and a flex disc.
I started my renewal list. Some things may be overkill, but I like to fix it once while I have things apart, then not have to mess with it again for awhile.
Ordered:
- Replacement subwoofer grille
- Replacement underbody shield
- Magnecor 8.5mm ignition wires
- Delrin seat bushings to fix shifting seat when braking
- Dark red leather shift boot and eBrake boot
- LED replacement bulbs for interior
- Replacement zippered tinted rear window
- PowerFlex rear diff mount
- Tonneau cover (Thanks Kitty!)
- Rear upper shock tower brace
- Empire Cover for bird **** in the driveway protection
- Instructional DVD on "How to replace your Z3 soft top"
- Replace RSMs with Meyle HD RSMs and reinforcement plates
- Fix Windshield washers
- Oil Filter Housing gasket
- Troubleshoot and test Hi/Low speed relays on cooling fan
- Coolant pipes, hoses, alum radiator and flush coolant
- Sew Zipper back on to top, install new window for top
- Replace front solid rotors with E36 vented rotors, carriers and calipers
- SS Brake lines
- Hawk HP street pads all around
- Flush brake fluid with fresh ATE
- F/R strut tower bars
- Install Rear Sway bar
- Replace heated Windshield Washer nozzles
- Replace 18 year old spare tire
- Renew Audio system. Head Unit and Speakers
- Repair A/C
- Send the DME off to BarrieM in Montreal for his flash tune.
- Install OEM or AM alarm keyless system
- Repair stitching or replace Drivers heated seat bottom
- Install HID/Halo headlights
- Paint hood, replace side Roundels
I believe this was the main satisfaction issue that cause the sale. They had just dropped in a rebuilt M44, but didn't replace the tired Flex Disc. Six months later, the car ran badly. Upon the test drive, I told the PO this, but they still wanted to sell it. $38 dollars for the part.
Also, the engine was leaking lotsa oil. Turns out the oil pan was leaking on the passenger side, rear oil pan bolts. $14 for the gasket, plus motor mounts since I had to drop the subframe anyway. I had new, spare motor mounts in storage
I like the tone of the exhaust (Once I corrected the exhaust leak)
The hood needs serious love. A paint job will be in order in due time. A new Roundel is usually the first order of repair for me. I have a bunch of spares on hand. I also reattached the rear view mirror and removed the leopard skin seat covers.
Little goofy odds and ends missing for little parts. Cracked intake boot, SMOG pump misaligned, A/C not charged, intake tube hose not properly installed. Missing under body airflow cooling parts, windshield nozzles not working. Little annoying, but fixable stuff....
I did pull out a bunch of renewal parts for the TIs that are same part#s for what I need on the Z3.
Something to be said about standardizing some aspect of your vehicles...
- Power washed the underside, so I could better see what I am working with. I hate working on greasy cars on an ongoing basis.
- Removed the shredded Flex Disc and wasted a bunch of time trying to figure out why spare Flex Disc wouldn't fit. Turned out my spare was for an automatic. Good lesson learned by wasting 4 hours I will never get back.
- Found the source of the exhaust leak, Three of the four retaining nuts on the exhaust manifold flange are missing. This is the second issue that led to the sale. I replaced the gasket and installed four new nuts. Total parts cost $0 as I had the spares on hand.
- I installed a M3 EVO three spoke steering wheel in place of the torn 4 spoke wheel. It is interesting that this steering wheels seems standard for other Z models.
- I found the main oil leak. It is by the oil pan near the internal oil pump pickup. I suspect no gasket maker was applied to the oil pan gasket at the seams between the covers. The Oil Filter housing gasket does not seem to be leaking, but I'll do that one when I do the drivers side plastic coolant pipe.
- I wire brushed the rust off the hubs, as the wheels were a bear to get off. Reinstalled them with anti seize and a set of wheel locks. Three of the four tires are now racing slicks. I will throw a set of DS-2s I have in storage with some great tread for the moment.
- Tried to figure out if the storage compartment I have behind the seats is a dead subwoofer or a child proof storage area. If the latter, I suspect I won't be able to get in.
- Ordered a replacement set of driving lights as I found the switch and the leads to the Fog lights.
- Taped off the rear soft top window as I understand we have rain coming. Three years of drought and I suppose the trick to get it to rain is to buy a car with a leaking soft top.
- Correct Flex Disc installed
- Cleaned heat shields
- Exhaust gasket and nuts addressed
- Tranny mounts replaced. The shift pattern firmed up nicely and shifting is now crisp, not so sloppy.
- Short weighted shift knob installed. The original would not fasten and was coming off in spirited shifts. All better...
- Figured out how to get into the Subwoofer for inspection. (thank you guys!) The subwoofer looks and sounds clear. The rear drivers side mid is blown as is the passenger lower mid/low in the kick panel. Additionally, the drivers door speakers are not working. Repaired the cracks in the Subwoofer lid from underneath with epoxy and plastic reinforcement. I have the drivers door panel off troubleshooting the lock and the speakers presently.
- Still have to figure out how to get access to the two other rear speakers. Knowing all is brittle, I want to do it right, rather than experiment.
- Adjusted and lubed trunk lock. It now latches the first time around, rather than 4-5 slams.
My BT reader indicated that the #4 plug started misfiring. Upon inspection, the boot was torn off and #4 plug was shorting on the block. I ordered new Magnecor wires and in the meantime, I'll see if I have a spare in storage this weekend to temp replace while I wait for the new wires.
I also noticed a familiar rattle behind the drivers seat. I suspect the Drivers side RSM is blown. I'll replace them both and install the reinforcement plates.
- Replaced burnt out bulbs in instrument cluster
Now I can see if I am overheating in the dark of the evening...
- Replaced #4 spark plug wire. Runs smooth again
- Tightened up loose center vent roller switch and rotating vents
- Ordered spare lighted key
- Cleaned Oil Pan and replaced it's gasket.
I believe the PO somewhat stripped the Oil Pan drain plug threads with a magnetic plug that had a different pitch to the bolt. It's in there snugly, but I'll plan on replacing the oil pan prolly at my next oil change. I'm getting quicker on swapping out M44 oil pans. I'll write and post an Oil Pan replacement DIY if one docent already exist
- Replaced motor mounts. They were O.K, but getting deformed.
- Powerwashed under body post oil pan gasket replacement (I suspect I will still have a Oil filter housing gasket leak to deal with. I'll take care of it when I replace the two plastic cooling pipes.
- Addressed missing air cleaner horn to hose. It was just plain missing. I also refitted the foam air intake hose from a 318ti to the Z3 intake air scoop. All better.
- Replaced the secondary air pump with one with the correct inlet. I suspect the PO replaced a failing one from an Air Pump from a different model. Same pump, different intake orientation. I replaced the rubber support bushings since I had it out anyway.
- Replaced the oil filter and air filter
- Obtained the radio code for the original radio. I may replace the BMW radio with a CD43 as I don't have cassettes anymore. Just need to confirm it will integrate with the changer for now. I typically have been swapping Alpine Media players in for Bluetooth integration and to charge my iPhone.
- Completed Oil, tranny, diff fluid change. Mobil 1 15-40W and Redline for the tranny and Diff. Lubed locks and squeekey stuff.
- Installed Fog lights
- I'll SMOG the vehicle after Magnecor Ignition wires come in
- I'll see if I can buff out more of the oxidation out of the hood. First pass on half of the hood showed promising results. It won't replace the clear coat, but it removed the gray oxidation and won't look so ghetto until I get the hood painted. I'll try a more aggressive compound for the real bad areas then work my way back up to finish with some Zymol as a stop gap until other areas get finished off and I can properly paint the hood..
- Replace blown speakers with on hand HK speakers I have around
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(Pictured is the Mason strut bar in my daily driver, a 1998 318ti, 1.9L Compact.)
