MOT Failure

Bringit96

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The garage that gave me the second opinion has my car and they're going to weld in 4mm thick plates. The mech said he'd make it stronger than it originally was so that's a plus.

Off the top of my head its had 13 owners but now it's safe and sound in my London underground parking
 

andyglym

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The garage that gave me the second opinion has my car and they're going to weld in 4mm thick plates. The mech said he'd make it stronger than it originally was so that's a plus.

Off the top of my head its had 13 owners but now it's safe and sound in my London underground parking
That's a fair number of owners. Glad it seems to be working out.
 

Synclare

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I'm not saying it would happen but I have first hand experience of someone having a rear axle beam welded. It ended up slightly distorting and throwing rear wheel alignment out resulting in severe tyre wear. If you can get a breaker for £300 I'd swap the rear assembly from it and re-bush the cross beam as yours appears to have dropped on it's bushes. Never seen any corrosion issues like that :-(
 

mrscalex

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If you still want a complete rear axle I can help. I have one sat here from a very clean car complete with 2.2 diff and propshaft for £300. It's less brake calipers and disks. Collection from Swindon.

I've seen trailing arms like that rotted before but only once.
 
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Stevo7682

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Before you fo anything i would 1 st check if the mot tester is going to accept the arms welded up .
The reason i say this is if he classes them as high stressed components then welding to these areas is not allowed for mot .
20171017_231632.png
 
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t-tony

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If he does, ask him to show you in the tester's manual where it states this.

Tony.

ps. Then ask him to show you how he made the holes? And prove the repair is not as strong as the original arm. He cannot.
 
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Bringit96

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They said they'll check if they're allowed to do it first so I'm not worried about them doing it and it not being okay for MOT. I'll wait for them to get back to me.

Other than that I've looked at stripped Z3 which will provide me with more parts that I'd like (cleaner front bumper etc) as well as the rear arms.

If not I'll ask some of the breakers here.

@mrscalex would a 2.2 diff fit on a 1.9?
 

Stevo7682

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Personally I would find replacement parts .
As you tend to find once you start welding you always end up chasing it as the metal rots round the weld due to heat stress on old metal .
Find some good replacement ones more work short term stronger and safer long term .
 

mrscalex

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@mrscalex would a 2.2 diff fit on a 1.9?
So you have a pre-facelift 1.9?

The rear axle beam is the same. The trailing arms/driveshaft are different parts on a pre-facelift 1.9. The driveshafts are slightly shorter to match the width of the arches.

Not sure on the diff. I expect it will physically fit (i.e. match to the propshaft) but will change your gearing. I'd reuse the 1.9 diff.

But that's irrelevant when the trailing arms/driveshaft are wrong fit :(

Apart from a pre-facelift 1.9 the parts are the same across pre-facelift 2.8 and all facelifts!
 

mrscalex

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The only other Z3 I've seen with rotted trailing arms had areas of serious rot elsewhere. From memory it had gone at the back of the rear inner arches. And showed evidence of the inner/structural sills having gone.

That was on a 2.8 that had 1 previous careful local owner known to the current owner. The rest of the car was lovely. It had spent its life being driven around country lanes accumulating mud and silt.

You ought to check the rest of the car properly before investing further in this. Proper inspection would require removal of the wheel arch liners and sill covers. It's very doable but is 2-3 hours work or probably longer if you've not done it before.

For your own sake I have to say this. It sounds like it's beyond economical repair before you have even discovered the state of the inner sills/arches :(

If it was on a 2.8 it would be more viable. But as a 1.9 with 13 previous owners it has a ceiling price. I'm guessing it has mileage over 100k. So it will be worth closer to £1k than £2k.

The most viable non-welding repair would be to replace only the complete trailing arms. You might get those for £100 or less a side. But it's still several hours labour and probably running out close to £500 total.

But that's supposing there is no rot elsewhere.
 

Bringit96

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Sorry for bumping this back up but for those who are interested I thought I'd give an update on what happened.

So I ended up getting the arms welded. Whilst that wasn't the most popular option from you guys it was the most viable option for me.
Also the shop that did it agreed with the 1st garage that it would pass its MOT and the 1st garage did pass it.

It's keeping the car alive for now which I'm happy with. If I had the time I would have seriously considered replacing everything myself but alas this is the outcome.

Also just wanted to thank all of you for your help. If you see a post saying 'My weld repair didn't work' then you know why ;)
 

colb

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Good to know your back on the road, always like to see the outcome put on a thread, no apologies needed for bumping it back to the top. I take it the repairs have been painted over to give some protection?
 

t-tony

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My understanding of repairing suspension arms is that pressed steel arms (such as on Astra etc.) are not to be repaired by welding however a heavy duty thing like a Z3 rear arm would be acceptable.

Tony.
 
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